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What do I need to wire my electrical brewing hardware?

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by airlocker, Jun 24, 2014.

 

  1. #1
    airlocker

    Member

    Posted Jun 24, 2014
    Hi,

    I finally got all of the components for my electric brewing setup except for the "electrical" part :) I've ordered a panel w/QO Type 3R non-metallic loadcentre and a 50A GFCI, as well as 4500 & 5500w elements. I plan to use my dryer outlet. My questions:

    1) I want to make a portable setup. What wires do I need to buy to hook the elements to the panel and panel to the outlet?
    2) Do I need any other switches/parts? Basically, I'm not really certain as to how the whole setup should look like (a diagram would help) hence are the questions.

    Thanks!
     
  2. #2
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 25, 2014
    We need more information to even begin to give advice.

    How many elements? (only two?)
    How are they controlled? PID? SSVR?
    How many pumps?
    How many vessels?
     
  3. #3
    airlocker

    Member

    Posted Jun 25, 2014
    * 2 elements from http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements They are not controlled in any way, and I need advice as to the simplest and cheapest option to where to plug them in. Some sort of "on/off" switch and maybe "high/low" regulator panel?
    * Chugger pump
    * 2 vessels (HLT and BK) will have the elements installed.
     
  4. #4
    jCOSbrew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 25, 2014
    search for voltage resistance SSR on ebay or amazon. This device can control power to the heating element. Add some 30 amp switchs (or a contactor) for the the on/off function and 10-15amp switches are fine for the pump. If you want to run both elements at once you will need a 50 amp panel.
     
  5. #5
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 27, 2014
    HERMS? RIMS??? What are you using for a MT?
     
  6. #6
    airlocker

    Member

    Posted Jun 27, 2014
    I'll be doing fly sparging. Pump will recirculate the wort. All 3 vessels are converted kegs.
     
  7. #7
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 28, 2014

    But how will you hold the temperature of your mash? HERMS, RIMS, or Direct Fired, or other?

    You have to define the system a bit better and then we can come up with an electrical and plumbing schematic and a bill of materials.
     
  8. #8
    airlocker

    Member

    Posted Jun 29, 2014
    It's insulated, holds 49-52C easily for an hour. Gravity will feed warm water from HLT during sparging.
     
  9. #9
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 29, 2014
    OK... So your process is to heat a measured portion water in your HLT to strike temperature, dough in and mash in an insulated cooler, gravity sparge (Fly or Batch) and collect wort in your BK and boil. Water is heated and wort is boiled with electric elements. Is that approximately correct??
     
  10. #10
    airlocker

    Member

    Posted Jun 30, 2014
    That's exactly it :)
     
  11. #11
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 30, 2014
    Hmm... OK - Will you be doing double batches at all or heating water in the HLT while boiling?
     
  12. #12
    airlocker

    Member

    Posted Jul 2, 2014
    Nope. I'll heat it once before mashing and then again before gravity sparging. BK has 5,500 element and HLT has 4,500 element.
     
  13. #13
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 2, 2014
    Perfect... a single Auber 2352 will work fine. I'll see if I can come up with a schematic for you.
     
  14. #14
    airlocker

    Member

    Posted Jul 3, 2014
    Thanks! Getting the equipment piece-by-piece together was tough enough, I am totally lost when it comes to electrical work (I'll outsource it but need to know what to tell the contractor).
     
  15. #15
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 3, 2014
  16. #16
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 3, 2014
    Here is the initial Bill of Materials less wire, plugs, outlets, etc - not sure what you want to do with that.

    Component Type Qty. Part # MFG Vendor Cost Sub
    SW1 2 Pos Selector NO 1 ebrewsupply.com $3.50 $3.50
    SW2 2 Pos Selector NO 1 ebrewsupply.com $3.50 $3.50
    SW3 2 Pos Selector NO 1 ebrewsupply.com $3.50 $3.50
    CB1 6a Circuit Breaker 1P 1 ebrewsupply.com $6.00 $6.00
    CB2 25a Circuit Breaker 2P 1 ebrewsupply.com $9.00 $9.00
    PID PID Controller 1 SYL-2352 auberins.com $46.50 $46.50
    SSR1 40a SSR 1 MGR-1D4840 auberins.com $19.00 $19.00
    MCR 220v 2P 40a, 110v Coil 1 ebrewsupply.com $13.00 $13.00
    RTD Sensor Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2 in, 1/4 NPT Thread 1 PT100-L50NPT auberins.com $28.55 $28.55
    RTD Cable Deluxe Cable for PT100-L Series Probe 1 auberins.com $17.00 $17.00
    SSR Heat Sink 1 ebay.com $2.85 $2.85
    $152.40
     
  17. #17
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 3, 2014
    Here's the BOM formatted better - remember, there is no indicator lights or bling in this schematic whatsoever - this is the bare minimum.

    bom.jpg
     
  18. #18
    airlocker

    Member

    Posted Jul 4, 2014
    Wow, that's amazing. A huge thank-you. Do you have the BOM in Excel?

    As for wires/plugs/etc., I'll let the electrician source it locally. I have 1 dryer outlet, which is rather far away from the brewing spot, so I will need some sort of an extension cord that will handle the load.
     
  19. #19
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 8, 2014
    YesI do - PM me an email addy and I'll send it too you.
     
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