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What are some of the best ways avoid tannin extraction from 6 row and 2 row?

Discussion in 'All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing' started by msa8967, Dec 30, 2013.

 

  1. #1
    msa8967

    mickaweapon  

    Posted Dec 30, 2013
    What are some of the best ways avoid tannin extraction from 6 row and 2 row? I would like to avoid any repeat expereinecs of having astringent tastes in future brews. I mostly use 2 row and pale malt but I will be brewing some with 6 row malt which I have read has a greater potential to release tannins upon extraction. I use RO water, never over crush my grain and never mash above 160 F.

    I have been under the recent assumption that tannin extraction is now a home brewing myth but was told by an experienced home brewer that this was untrue. Thus, I am now curious to learn more about what can cause the astringent teabag taste in home brew.
     
  2. #2
    BigEd

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 30, 2013
    Six row has a slightly higher ratio of husk to endosperm but it's going to be errors with technique and procedure that will cause a tannin problem.

    What do you do with the water? Are you adding appropriate brewing ions in correct amounts?

    It's not a myth but if you follow correct procedures it is unlikely to ever be a problem. The combination of too high a pH and too hot a temperature, usually during sparging, are the most probable causes of tannin problems. If you are using untreated RO water it is unlikely your mash has enough Calcium (Ca+) and other ions which help promote good conditions, including pH stabilization, in the mash. What are your sparging procedures and temperature? Is your thermometer accurate? Are you also using untreated RO water at sparge? These are all possible problems.
     
  3. #3
    JLem

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 30, 2013
    Tannin extraction occurs when 1) mash pH is too high AND 2) temperatures are too high (over 170? Though maybe the critical temperature depends on the pH). Given normal mash temperatures, tannin extraction tends to occur during sparging - especially if you "oversparge". If your mash pH stays low enough (5.2-5.6), you will never have to worry about this as even boiling the mash will not extract tannins (this is why decoction mashing works).
     
    TNGabe likes this.
  4. #4
    jimyson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 31, 2013
    Tell us more about your process. What temps and PH of mash and sparge? What is the runoff gravity?

    Also, "Tannins can also come from overhopping with low-alpha hops. Bacterial infections can also cause astringency, i.e., vinegar tones from Acetobacter.” (Excerpt From: John J Palmer. “How to Brew.”)
     
  5. #5
    msa8967

    mickaweapon  

    Posted Dec 31, 2013
    I can see that I left out much information.

    I do not have a pH meter but I am thinking that I need to invest in pH strips at the minimum for looking into my source of RO water.

    I use 3 thermometers and check them this night before brewing to see if each is accurate at 32 F and 212 F.

    I use RO for every stage of the brewing process including making yeast starters and bottling. I typically batch sparge in 1 or 2 steps and never let the gravity fall below 1.010 nor do I let the sparge water go above 170 F.

    Do most of you brewing that pay attention to pH use strips or a pH meter? I will be paying more attention to water chemistry now.

    Thanks for giving me more things to start looking into with my brewing. I have heard that it is best to stay away from the 5.2 pH water treatment additive.
     
  6. #6
    jimyson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 31, 2013
    I use a meter and your mash chemistry is more important than your water. Keep in mind, additives typical occur in the mash.

    At a minimum, get some strips to test to mash and give you a ballpark of where things stand.
     
  7. #7
    msa8967

    mickaweapon  

    Posted Dec 31, 2013
    Can anyone tell me what chemical additives would be good to have around prior to testing the pH of the mash? Before someone says "you know what to add until you test the pH", the closest LHBS is 40 miles away so testing and then driving 90 minutes to get is needed won't work very well for me. I do have some of the general 5.2 stablizer compound but I have never used it because I was under the assumption that it might leave a salty taste to my beer.

    In terms of pH strips, does anyone have a recommendation on what to buy along with which additives will begood to have on hand? I am stuck in rural georgia until the 3rd of January so I could order these while being here.

    Would these be OK do do I need a narrower range to be more precise?

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FYGXUC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2018
  8. #8
    jimyson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 31, 2013
  9. #9
    jimyson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 31, 2013
    You want a smaller range on the strips. Look for ones that are around 4-7 give or take. Online HBS have them and are also on Amazon.
     
  10. #10
    Mojzis

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 31, 2013
    I read through this and noticed you didn't say if you treated your RO water. From what I understand RO shouldn't be used without proper additions of ions.... Maybe you do make additions, but I would also agree that this is where the issue is likely coming from.

    I personally don't check my pH. I do have strips but I haven't had any issues yet. You might want to do some additions and check pH though.
     
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