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Water chemistry question

Discussion in 'Beginners Beer Brewing Forum' started by carloscede2, Feb 28, 2016.

 

  1. #1
    carloscede2

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    So the ph in my city is 8.4 and they use chloramine instead of chlorine. Any insights in how that affects the beer? Water chemistry is not my expertise at all.
     
  2. #2
    cyanmonkey

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    Campden tablets will treat chloramine/chlorine. 1 pill should treat 20 gallons of water, otherwise you might get a "band-aidy" taste depending on concentration.

    Water pH won't get you far. Mash pH and water alkalinity are what are important.

    Depending on your grain bill, you may need to adjust your pH with something like lactic acid or acid malt. That all depends on your alkalinity which (as far as I understand it) is your water's ability to resist acidification. If you have 12 lbs of roast barley, but alkalinity is through the roof, you won't hit your target pH.

    Try to get information from your water supply, or use RO/distilled water and build up from there with salts. I use distilled. It's 0.88 cents/gallon and it's guaranteed devoid of any minerals.

    Check out Bru 'n Water or EZ Water (which is a bit more user friendly).

    Also, see the Brewing Science section of this forum.
     
  3. #3
    johnsma22

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    Deleted. Took too long to write my response. Poster above said just about everything I was going to say.
     
  4. #4
    Qhrumphf

    Stay Rude, Stay Rebel, Stay SHARP  

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    As already mentioned, water pH means very little aside from how the alkalinity is present in terms of carbonate species. With that pH, more carbonate will be present relative to other water supplies (but still mostly bicarbonate). But it's the amount of alkalinity itself that matters, not the pH. Low alkalinity water will be very easy to acidify even at a very high pH as there's no buffering capacity. Conversely, even at low pH highly alkaline water will require more acid to adjust. It's the alkalinity that matters, not the pH.

    Chlorine/chloramine should be removed. Campden tablets are one option (that's what I use). Carbon filtration is another (although to remove chloramine the flow rate has to be quite slow).
     
  5. #5
    carloscede2

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    Ok now I get it. Do you remove that when you boil it? If not Im ****d. How can I get the alkalinity? Im taking chemistry in university so im going to show up with these questions
     
  6. #6
    Qhrumphf

    Stay Rude, Stay Rebel, Stay SHARP  

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    Using campden tablets (potassium metabisulfite) will chemically neutralize the chlorine/chloramine. They're sold with winemaking supplies at just about any homebrew shop. Carbon filtration will work too. In either case, water should be pretreated with either method first before doing anything else with it. You can also just buy RO water from the store. You can remove chlorine by boiling, but chloramine takes so long to sufficiently reduce that way that it's not practical. And if you steep grains or anything like that first, then the damage will already be done and the creation of chlorophenols from chlorine/chloramine and grain husk phenols happens very rapidly, so waiting for your main wort boil is too late.

    You should be able to get your alkalinity from your water company.
     
  7. #7
    cyanmonkey

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    I assume you're doing all grain or extract?
     
  8. #8
    carloscede2

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    Al my batches are extract except my last one where I move to all grain
     
  9. #9
    carloscede2

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    30 ppm, (considered very soft) is that the alkalinity?
     
  10. #10
    theseeker4

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    Where are you getting that number? Does it say the alkalinity is 30 ppm, or is that referring to something else?
     
  11. #11
    carloscede2

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    I got it from the water report of my city (I think!)

    View attachment 1456685836907.jpg
     
  12. #12
    Qhrumphf

    Stay Rude, Stay Rebel, Stay SHARP  

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    Hardness is often related to alkalinity, but not the same thing. In brewing terms, hardness is often good, alkalinity is almost always an obstacle. You're looking for "bicarbonate", "alkalinity", or "alkalinity as CaCO3".
     
  13. #13
    carloscede2

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    That says caco3 alkalinity, now?

    View attachment 1456688625282.jpg
     
  14. #14
    chickypad

    lupulin shift victim  

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    That is good water for brewing provided you do something about the chlorine/chloramine. Very similar to mine. If you don't want to get into water too much yet then you can use that water with the water primer instructions. I tend to use the brewer's friend water calculator for figuring additions because that's what I started with, but the water primer page will do. For example for pale beers I usually just need a little calcium carbonate and/or gypsum and a little acid malt.

    If you want to learn more about water Martin's Bru'n water knowledge page is a good place to start. You can also download the Bru'n water program there.
     
  15. #15
    Qhrumphf

    Stay Rude, Stay Rebel, Stay SHARP  

    Posted Feb 28, 2016
    Yep, that's some good starting water. Deal with your chlorine/chloramine, and then the water primer linked above is a good place to start if you want to get the right water chemistry for your beers without having to venture down the rabbit hole.
     
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