Trading my electric brewery with my dryer

Hey guys this is my first post and I have tons of questions about a build I plan on starting here in the near future. After doing a lot of research on this topic and am still a little confused on some things.
I am a college and live in an apartment my friend and I bought. I plan on building a control box very similar to this layout I found
http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-5500w-30b2-pb-e-stop.jpg
(Thank you P-J from northern brewer)
Here are my problems I plan brewing out on my and plugging in place of my dryer when I do which is 30 feet away. What would be the best way to create a 35' plug to reach there?
Also I plan on replacing the breaker for the outlet with a GFCI so that I can be safe as a lot of people recommend. Will this effect the performance of my dryer? ive heard that dryers trip those breakers. If not is it just easy enough to switch the breakers and switch plugs when I plan on brewing?

Will this whole system work? I plan to have 100qt pots. The wiring diagram shows 2 elements but only one can run at a time. any suggestions?

 

Also I want to do this the best and cheapest way possible.

 

rather than replace the breaker, you can get a spa panel with a long cable to run to the outlet. you need the long cable and the gfci in the panel isn't cheap.

as far as tripping, i don't see why it would be any more susceptible.

 

I was thinking of getting a spa panel and taking the gfci in it and replacing the current one in my main with that. Then using the 10" by 7" (or so) box to house my control panel for the brewery. Then the power cord for it would just be 35' long and plug into the socket.

Think that will work? I wonder what the power drop on a cord that long would be?
Do you know what kind of cord I should get also the plug is 4 prong if that matters.

I know it wont be cheap but I want to do this as economical as possible.

 

the big concern is making sure that the breaker in the spa panel will fit in your box. i have zero experience here but there are three or four manufacturers of panels afaik and some use slightly different breakers (not an expert and about 85% sure on that statement).

as for the spa panel as a control box, entirely possible but might be small. what will matter is how many things you want to house in it. i just used a tool box for mine.

 

get the power cable that has the GFCI built in, that's what I did. I think was ~$40 shipped that way you don't have to mess with the panel, plus the cord is very long itself (maybe 15'??). Hosfelt Electronics, they don't always have it listed on their site so you may have to call or email, tell them you want the "240v power cord 30A Inline GFCI". It uses the standard 4-prong dryer plug as well.

 

Ill look into it. That would really be so much easier. Is it an extension cord basically? So all I would have to do is make up the difference in distance with the cord ill be installing into my control panel? Easy enough.

What do you think of these ss pots?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085...more than aware this is not a cheap project.)

 

The depth was a concern of mine on the box. I was just throwing ideas around. I like the idea of finding the cord with it built in. Although I have heard mixed things about them.

 

The control panel was wired with the intentions of being similar to the EBC III. The only thing its missing that I would like a dial to control the element that is powered on so Ill be able to slow my boil. Where would I add it? between the PID and SSR?

here's the diagram
http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-5500w-30b2-pb-e-stop.jpg

 

If its PID controlled just get a PID that has a manual mode, and 'dial' it from there IMO.

Edit: Is anyone else getting a 403 error on P-J's site? I can't seem to get to it from here.

 

If I can turn it down through the PID thats perfect. Here is P-J's drawing anyways though

 

Which SSR do you guys recommend? ive been looking at the 40 amp ones but want to make sure I grab the right one. Im pricing all of this out and plan on getting a detailed price list up. I have a few friends getting there masters in Electrical Engineering who want to help so this should be pretty painless and ive been doing custom carpentry and handywork for 5 years now and have had my fair share of dealing with wiring up houses with our companies electrician. Just want to get everything in order. Can't wait to have this setup!

 

yea the cord is basically an extension comes with 4-prong plug on one end but the other end is the 4 wires exposed so I just used that end directly in my controller.

Crydom is supposed to make good ones (industrial grade), I picked up a like new one on ebay for $10.

 

as for the kettles, i got three of these http://morebeer.com/products/brewing-kettle-14-gallon.html

great so far

 

Im looking for bigger than that. I have lots and lots of friends who love beer. It seems the 5 gallon batches ive been making the past couple years are gone in seconds haha. Ive researched the concords more and I think those are the way to go!

 

so you are looking at making how much at a time?

 

15 gallons. I wanted to have ample amounts of room. I just ordered 1 of the concord pots to test it out then ill order the other two. Ill post pictures. Just ordered a gfci for my breaker and all of the internals for my control panel. Still looking for a housing for it all. How do you like the toolbox?

 

i think the toolbox is great, it's a cheap economical solution. i said at some point that i don't need a cadillac as my first car... but maybe my second.

plus, everything is basically reusable.

 

I like that. Ill look and see what I have lying around. I think I have an old toolbox. Maybe ill give it a shot.

 

I did an eBIAB panel with the same functionality as ebc 3. I use the phase angle ssr for analog power control to element and use a relay output PID to turn the element on/off via the contactor. With this setup I can set the element to 50% power during the mash.

PID with manual mode provides similar functionality for the BK with digital control via PWM.

 

I just watched s walked through on using a PID with manual mode and it is way easier than I expected to turn it down. I want to know if the ebc III's 2nd pid controlling the pump on and off is necessary. This diagram I have has it removed so I assumed its not necessary to cut the pump on and off. What do you guys think? If its not I still want to know the temp inside of the mash in the tun and this doesnt have that option.

 

I don't see any need to have the PID manage the pump. Leave the pump running during mashing, and when you are finished, turn it off. If you want to whirlpool in the boil kettle, turn the pump on and off manually.

 

That's what I figured. I guess ill buy a thermometer with a temp probe and set the probe in my mash tun so I can see if I am hitting my mash temp.

 

Quick question,

I am doing a 30 amp setup and looking for a GFCI breaker to put in. I plan on keeping my current dryer breaker in (not GFCI protected) then running in a spa breaker in my brewery. Will a 50 amp GFCI still provide me with the protection I need if I am still only running 30 amps. I'm pretty sure it will since the 50 amps is just its maximum rating and will still serve its purpose of detecting and voltage leaks just don't know if there are technicalities.

I found this at home depot. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-50-Amp-Spa-Panel-BR-Type-BR50SPA/100206043#.UYVnA7W85EI

I saw the 65 dollar one but a lot of people say its junk so 10 bucks more for a better quality breaker is worth it. Will this one work?

 

If the circuit breaker that feeds the dryer outlet is 30a, then you will be fine, as that will protect 10awg wiring required for 30a.

Also, many people use the cheaper spa panel with no problems. If you get a bad one, Home Depot should replace it. The other advantage to that one is that it is well understood by many on here.

 

Thank you,
Another thing is my dryer is a little over 30 feet away from where I usually brew. Should I move up to 8 gauge to prevent a voltage drop?

 

I don't think there is any need. I believe the voltage drop is around 1/10 ohm per 100 feet, times 30a would be 3v per 100 feet. So 30 feet is under 1v, well below a 10% max voltage drop, which would be 22v. IANAE.

 

Alright thanks. Just ordered the cable!

 

Do you have a plan for moisture?

I didnt really get what 2gal of evaporation does to the room without ventilation. It is a priority, not an afterthought.

Best of luck

 

Yeah, ill be outside on my porch, worst comes to worse ill have a fan blowing the steam 6 inches out around the balcony.

 

Just got my first 100qt concord pot. This sucker is huge! Any ideas for a FB?

 

It will probably be difficult to make 5 gal batches in that kettle. The element needs to be fully submerged. Should be fine for 10-15 gallon batches.

 

Oh know that. I was trying to figure out what I was going to do for a false bottom for my pot. The bottom is 20" ill need to measure it more accurstely. Anyone have any ideas?

 

I found this on craigslist. I know I need 10/3 wire and I found these. http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/rvs/3741340153.html

Id get the 47 foot with connectors. My dryer is four prong so I wont have much use for the connectors but is the cable right? It says 3 wire. Does it matter? If its right I don't want to miss this deal. keep in mind I am having an electrician wire all this in. I am just trying to get all of the materials correct before he come over and helps me out (friend of mine).
Wiring diagram for the control panel is further up
Thanks