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Timeline for Kegging Pale Ale

Discussion in 'Beginners Beer Brewing Forum' started by jc03, Apr 17, 2014.

 

  1. #1
    jc03

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    Hello, my second brew went...well...not so well so I have a question on number 3. I'm brewing the Dry Dock Pale Ale from Northern Brewer. I had it in the primary for just shy of 3 weeks. I racked to the secondary yesterday. Would it make sense for me to dry hop tomorrow (Friday) and let it go for a week before kegging? My goal is to be able to drink the beer next weekend (the 26th). Is that not long enough in the secondary and how and how long do I need to forcecarb? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. #2
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    You can dryhop for 5 days. I'd probably add the dryhops today, let it go for 5 days, and then keg it and carb it up.

    A quickly carbed beer can take a bit of time for the carbonic acid 'bite' to mellow, so I'd get the keg in the kegerator at about 40 degrees, hook the gas up at 30 psi for 36 hours, then purge and reset at 12 psi. It should be pretty good in three days that way.
     
  3. #3
    freisste

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    Strictly speaking, you don't need secondary at all, but since it's already there I'll forego the pros and cons. Someone else can rave about that...

    So your secondary has no time requirement, at this point all that matters is the dry hopping time. It goes a little faster if it's warmer, slower if it's cooler. I would say a week is enough, assuming it isn't in a fridge or anything.

    Regarding force carbing, it depends on your style. Burst method is fastest (30psi, shake/roll the keg, then down to serving pressure). It is fastest, but can cause over carbing most easily and doesn't make your beer "not green" (not that any other method will). Set and forget is the safest, truest method, but requires a couple weeks. Personally, I think a mix of the two is best. Start at 30 psi, maybe shake a little (I don't, but it will speed it up), then lower to serving pressure. I think it still takes a day or two to get where you really want it, but it is much faster than the set and forget method.

    Make sure you have a carbonation chart of volumes CO2 based on temp and pressure.

    Edit: Or just listen to Yooper. She said the same as me, twice as well, with half the words.
     
  4. #4
    gr8shandini

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    I like to shake it for 15-20 minutes at the serving pressure. It gets you 80% of the way to your final carbonation level right away and there's zero chance of overcarbonating.

    Also, for future reference, the keg basically is a secondary. You can do your dry hopping straight in the keg and eliminate a transfer. I usually keep the beer cold and haven't had any problem just keeping the hops in there until the keg is kicked.
     
  5. #5
    KeyWestBrewing

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    ^ this will serve you well. Though dry hopping in the keg will give your beer more time on gas. 2 birds one stone.
     
  6. #6
    brettg20

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014

    That's a LOT of shaking...


    Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
     
  7. #7
    IvanTheTerribrew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    I agree with dry hopping in keg. If it's a big party and you think you'll do a good job drinking most of it then just dry hop and leave them floating or so. But if not you can always: hold the dry hop bag with dental floss/fishing line to keep it near the top so it doesn't create grassy notes from being in there too long. Or zip tie the bag onto the beer dip tube. At about 2/3 the height for the same effect. What these do is when you drink so much, the beer level will be below the hops so no more dry hopping.


    - ISM NRP
     
  8. #8
    jekeane

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    One of my kegs has a little tab welded onto the bottom of the lid so you can tie a dry hop bag on. I imagine this could be accomplished with a food grade adhesive and a plastic hook.

    which is all to say you can dry hop in the keg while carbing...
     
  9. #9
    jc03

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    Thanks for all the replies. If I do dryhop in the keg is it ok to tie the hopsack to the fishing line and leave the line outside the keg? Will the seals leak if so?
     
  10. #10
    freisste

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014

    You could try it, but it seems like it would be hard to keep it from leaking. I don't use keg lube...maybe it could help?
     
  11. #11
    AnOldUR

    fer-men-TAY-shuhn  

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    dental floss?
     
  12. #12
    gr8shandini

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    Well, I guess "shaking" is the wrong word. If you lay the keg on its side you can just roll it back and forth with your foot. Put on some tunes and have a beer and the time passes pretty quickly.

    Regarding running the line for the hop sack outside of the keg, I think it might work, but it's unnecessary. Just tie the other end of the string to something that floats. When (if) the time comes to remove the hops, just sanitize your hand and yank it out.
     
  13. #13
    solbes

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    My favorite way to dry hop is to add the hops in a fine mesh hop bag with marbles, and let em sink to the bottom of the chilled beer keg where the pickup tube is at. The hop aroma stays around for the length of the keg (my kegs last 3-4 weeks). And because the beer is chilled, you don't get the grassy flavors like you would if you left them at room temp beyond 7 days.

    The only downside I see is that it takes longer for the beer to take on the aroma b/c the beer is cold. But usually by the time my keg is fully carbed (1 week), the aroma is there.
     
  14. #14
    FuzzeWuzze

    I Love DIY

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    Ive left hops in a keg to dry hop for a month or more and never had grassy notes, maybe it has to do with the hops but ive done it multiple times with no issues...

    I think the fact that its always under CO2 pressure and super cold prevents a lot of those notes from coming out? Not sure...

    Throw them in a bag, throw the bag into the keg and let it go...the nice thing about doing it in a keg is you literally lose zero of the aroma profile like you would when doing it in a primary and then transferring it...every ounce of flavor and aroma in those hops is going to stay in the keg.
     
  15. #15
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    While I appreciate others' input here, I still stand by going ahead and dryhopping now, after all the beer is already in a fine place for it, and after 5 days of dryhopping it can be racked to the keg and put it on the gas at 30 psi.

    There is no reason to shake, as you have plenty of time if you keg it in 5 days. Shaking it may mean some sediment all stirred up, as well as some foaming issues and cloudy beer. It's not worth it, and not needed.
     
    AnOldUR likes this.
  16. #16
    BreezyBrew

    IPA is my spirit animal

    Posted Apr 17, 2014
    When I chill for two days, then carb at 30 psi for 36 hours and let it sit at 12 psi, I don't get any carbonic bite. I also don't shake.
     
  17. #17
    gr8shandini

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 18, 2014
    Never had a problem with foam or cloudiness due to shaking. Anything you stir up falls right back out in a day or so. Yes, it's not strictly necessary, but it's another tool in the toolbox.

    I agree, though, that there's no point in dry hopping this particular batch in the keg since it's already in a secondary. I was just throwing that out there for the next time around. Sorry if that caused any confusion.
     
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