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Thermometer question

Discussion in 'Equipment/Sanitation' started by Cooner, Feb 6, 2012.

 

  1. #1
    Cooner

    Active Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2012
    Why do all of the bi-metal thermometers have such a broad range? For the mash, you really only need a range between 120 and 170. Does anyone know if there are thermometers with that narrow of a range that maybe span a large dial so that you might be able to get closer to the range you are targeting. Maybe a HLT thermometer would need a range between 160 and 212 for strike and sparge temps. And the Boiler would need down to 70 for your final temp after chilling, but really would need much else. So really you would need three specific thermometers each with a different range -

    HLT - 160 to 212
    MLT - 120 to 170
    Boiler - 60 to 80

    Am I wrong? Why hasn't anyone tried to make these specific for brewing? I know I'd buy them. I'd make them if I could, but that's really not my area.
     
  2. #2
    frankstoneline

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2012
    It is likely that using a thermometer set for 60 to 80 degrees in a vessel that routinely gets up to ~220 would render it useless after the first boil. Beyond that I would imagine the cost of producing modified thermometers (not the wide temp range variety available now) would be prohibitive, especially considering the various options for those who wish for closer temp. monitoring (ie digital measurement in either handheld or installed thermoprobe form)
     
  3. #3
    wildwest450

    Banned

    Posted Feb 6, 2012
    Yes
     
  4. #4
    Calichusetts

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2012
    +1

    Thread closed!
     
  5. #5
    Cooner

    Active Member

    Posted Feb 22, 2012
    Real encouraging support. Surprising from "senior" members.:confused:

    That's fine. I just don't think the bimetal ones are worth a crap and using a probe and such also seems like a pain. And would ultimately be more costly at $90+ for a good handheld and potentially more if you want to use a thermoprobe.

    So maybe the Boiler would need a broader range to prevent destroying itself, but why do you need to go from 60F to 220F for all three
     
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