The cardinal brewing sin

I would set it at the lowest possible setting, which is usually 1 degree. The more stable your temperature stays, the happier your yeast will be. People even go so far as to create computer based temperature controllers (BrewPi) with machine learning algorithms that learn how far your cooling overshoots when the compressor shuts off, and adjusts the set point to get down to less than +/-0.5 degree fluctuation.

 

Man, Amadeo, I'm glad you addressed that...I was watching my set up adjust and wondering why it keeps running the adjustment (Heat or cooling compressor) until it hits target temp. Inevitably, when the chosen adjustment device shuts off, the temp continues in the direction it was going....I felt like it might just keep ping-ponging back and fourth between cooling and warming forever. I was hoping it would shut one of the adjustments off right before it hits target temp. It seems to have stabilized recently however. Although, I looked in the ferm chamber this AM to find that the Gorilla tape and an old sock that I used to attach the probe to the carboy, came unstuck and the probe was just hanging there measuring atmospheric temp rather than as close to actual beer temp as possible. It there a better way to attach the probe from the temp controller to the carboy and measure the beer temp while isolating it from the chamber temp? I understand that something like this (Attaching the probe to the fermenter) is the best way to keep the beer fermenting more at the target temp than just hanging the probe in the chamber.

 

Hmm, I use packing tape to attach mine to the fermenter, but I make sure it's dry by wiping it with a towel immediately prior to application and using way more than you would think would be necessary. Then, I attach a piece of neoprene on the outside of the probe and tape that around as well. I am amazed that gorilla tape came loose for you. The only way I'd see that happening is if it was attached while wet

 

Yep, I think you're right. After typing that I went and checked and it appears that it was wet the first time I applied. I dried it the best I could while trying not to move the carboy much and it seems to be staying put now.

 

Yup

Alternatively, before I bought thermowells, I created an adjustable strap out of stretchy band material (like this, and plastic buckles (like this). I strapped it onto the carboy, then tucked the probe underneath, with some folded-over bubble wrap between the probe and the band.

It worked fine and was cheap to make, but I eventually wanted even finer measurements, so I upgraded to thermowells.

 

That's what I do every time.
Chill down to 80-90, fill the carboy and toss it in the fridge with sanitized foil tight around the top, set to 62.
Then the next morning I move my starter in there from the kegarator where it was cold crashing and let the two come to an equil temp, usually after several hours.

I then take the carboy out and shake the hell out of it to oxygenate it, pitch the decanted starter, shake the hell out of it again, toss it back in the fridge and it'll be ripping by the next morning.
Works every time!

 

THe wet towel in the bucket should cool it 4 or 5 degrees. Pitching yeast warm won't make bad beer but fermenting warm will. Yeast are the true makers of beer and each strain of yeast works a little different. With most ale yeast 65 t0 68 degrees is fine. After the first 4 days of fermentation you can let the tempature rise 3 or 5 degrees as the yeast has done most of the work and can finnish the job better at a little higher temp. As you brew more you can research what temps will work for you and the yeast and 3 degrees is a HUGE amount.

 

I pitched at 90 degrees the first time I brewed (no wort chiller and lack of patience and experience) and it turned out great - the last beer was definitely better than the first so I think the additional two week period was able to mellow any additional bad taste creating esters and fusels. I would let it condition in bottles or keg for a little longer than usual and the beer will get better over time.

 

That sounds good...I have a fermentation chamber (kegarator) now also and can do the same thing...These are my two biggest things to improve on for next brew...1. Re-hydrating my yeast (or making a starter) 2. Not Pitching until I have reached 65*F max or as low as 62 wort temp

 

Kit directions are often not the greatest. Some of it is trying to get you to finish your first batch as quickly as possible so you buy another kit sooner, some of it is outdated conventional wisdom, and some of it is the KISS principle. Not sure what the gravity of your batch was, but as long as it wasn't really high, pitching dry won't likely cause any problems, though it is best practice to pitch after rehydrating. Good luck!

 

If you are using dry yeast, don't bother with a starter, just re-hydrate. Even for really high gravity beers, if you need more yeast than a single packet contains, it usually is easier and cheaper to just buy two packets than mess around with a starter.

If you are using liquid yeast your next batch, definitely research starters and figure out what you want to do there.

 

You're welcome to brew with me any time #openinvitation

 

That makes two of us! Biggest mistake on that one was using canned extract and sugar for fermentables. Temp control during fermentation has produced better results for me than stressing over sanitation.

 

Thanks man, that's really generous... The Eastern Sierras are awesome. Can't say I've spent much tine south of Mammoth. Might have to take you up on that just for the awesome trip, and bring a fishing pole!

 

Nice to see another home Brewer from Stockton

 

Brand new to brewing but really enjoying it so far. Love to share a brew with you sometime. Cheers!

 

Pics don't show for me so can't offer any advice here.