Temperature Controller Wiring Help

Hi all. I'm hoping someone can lend me a hand with this. I bought a Love Controller (TSX-10140) thinking it would be easy to wire up. Unfortunately, I forgot that I'm only a few IQ points above "Petarded" (Family Guy fans out there will understand).

The stamp on it implies that it was made in 2007. Can anyone decipher this thing for me? Sorry for the grainy images--my phone is the only working camera in the house at the moment. It seems like it should be simple, but rather than keep fiddling with it, I figured I'd try to get some help from the professionals!

Should also mention: I'm using a spliced heavy duty extension cord to do this, (NOT wiring it directly to the compressor.)

Thanks!

 

There is a thread on the forum on how to wire the controller. Do a search.

 

I searched, but all I found was a different, newer model with different inputs...

 

I have the same one.

First: Note -- I have not installed this in the keezer yet (I'm still building it). But I did wire it up and plug it in, and it functions as it should.

Here's how I did it... I have the pre-2008 version (although I bought it new this month).




Here's the diagram on the sticker on my controller (I left the connection to [3] off in the diagram since I'm only using 1 probe):

 

Rick500--Dude, you're awesome! Thanks a ton. I definitely did not try that configuration last night. After sleeping on it I had another idea this morning, but looking at your write-up, I don't think it would have worked.

I'm only using one probe too, so it looks like we have the exact same setup.

For future Love Controller researchers out there that run across this thread, I got my controller from Drillspot.com for about $58 shipped (free 3-day shipping).

 

Me too. I specifically wanted this model because I liked the blue buttons.

Comes with the probe too. Good deal.

 

Following up:

I wired it up last night per your instructions--success! Thanks again for your help on this! (I also liked the blue buttons and the fact that I didn't have to buy the probe separately). I'm in the middle of my keezer build at the moment. I *think* I programmed it last night, then I hooked it up to the freezer. I forgot to check the temp reading before I left for work this morning--hopefully it's sitting around 38-39* or so.

Assuming its functioning properly when I get home tonight, I'll try to cut out a piece of the keezer collar and mount it up this weekend. Then I'm going to make a thermowell for the probe. I'll probably use an old White Labs vial filled with StarSan, and a crimped/soldered stainless steel toilet water supply line.

 

Forgot to mention: when I hooked up the probe, the readings on the controller were way off. I swapped the wires and that seemed to do the trick. I'm really not sure if the probe wires are specific that way or not, but just thought I'd share my experience.

I also think you can program in a temperature factor to "callobrate" the controller (i.e., tell it to read a few degrees up/down from what it gets off the probe). I'll do some temperature tests with my other trusty thermometers in the keezer over the next week or so in the 35-45* range, and then modify the controller up/down as needed.

 

Looking again at the diagram, I guess it would make more sense if I had reversed what's connected to [8] and [9] but it shouldn't matter one way or the other. The two together are either open or closed regardless of which way you wire them to the load and hot.

 

munsoned, do you have any photos of your wiring? did you end up connecting it to the freezer or just wire a plug into the controller?

 

Sorry, no pics of the wiring, and it's all wrapped up in electrical tape and installed into my keezer collar in a mounted electrical box. However, I can tell you that I followed Rick500's diagram exactly, and it worked no problem.

I did not wire directly into the freezer--I didn't want to mess up the freezer's power cord in case I want to unconvert it one day. Instead, I used a 10ft heavy duty extension cord. Cut it in half. Wired the extension cord into/out of the controller. Plugged the male end of the cord into the wall (hot side) and then plugged the freezer into the female end of the cord.

Clear as mud? Let me know if that isn't clear, or if you need any extra thoughts on this.

I'll see if I can take a pic or two tonight. If nothing else, it will show you how I installed the thing into the collar, and how I ran the extension cord to and fro...

 

I took a somewhat different (but electrically identical) approach, and cut the female end off the heavy duty extension cord and put on a junction box with a double wall outlet in it instead. (Only really needed one outlet, but having two doesn't hurt. Now I can plug in a lamp or something that goes on and off with the compressor. If I get really bored. ) Just gave me a nice sealed box to contain the connections.

I just wrapped the connections at the controller with electrical tape.

My wire was, I think, 14 gauge stranded, so it was pretty heavy. I tinned the ends that go into the controller with solder to guard against stray copper strands at the controller. Don't want any AC wires touching that shouldn't.

 

That's a great idea. I'll probably do my fermentation/lagering fridge (when I build it) that way.

 

Here are some of my keezer pics. Sorry so grainy.

 

I used the same black and red heavy duty extension cord.

 

Hi all- I've been thinking about using a chest freezer for fermentation temp control, the caveat being that it will be in my garage which means I will probably need to provide some heat during the winter, rather than just using it to cool. Is there a temp controller similar to the Love that will switch between heat (I haven't figured out what to use as a heating element yet) and cooling automatically?

Thanks,
Dan O.

 

Welcome! Yup, you would need a two stage controller I think. I don't have one, so I'm not exactly sure what model, but they exist, and I'm sure Love makes them too. Basically, they kick on one power source if the temperature goes below a certain set level, and turn on another power source if the temperature gets above a different set level. Plug one power source into the freezer (to cool), and another to a thermo-jacket, heat lamp, or something else (to warm), and there you go.

 

Sorry to ressurect an old thread but I will be doing this shortly.

I am also going to hack an extension cord rather than cut the freezer power cord. My question is if you did anything with the ground? Does the part of teh extension cord that goes to the outlet not need to be grounded?

Sorry...I am electrically challenged!

TIA,

John

 

When I wired up my controller with an extension cord, I had to cut the ground wire because I couldn't get the cord apart otherwise. I just put it back together with a wire nut. I think that the ground from the freezer still runs through the extension cord to the wall, so you should be good.

 

Here's a thread with some wiring diagrams for some different Love controller models in case you need it:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/love-temp-controller-series-ts-wiring-diagram-2008-a-88369/

 

Can you guys check my homework? I think I got it but if I burn down my house, my wife will leave me for sure.



If my drawing is correct (please don't laugh and my mad skills), the only question I have is about the Hot wire coming from the "male end of the extension cord" and going to posts #7 and #9. Do you just splice in another length or 14g wire along that run?

TIA,

John

 

Anyone?

Sorry to be a pest. I get my temp comtroller tomorrow and want to get it wired ASAP.

John

 

Mine has the hot going into #7 and then I used a short jumper wire from #7 to #9.

 

Thanks TH.

Either way is fine though, right?

 

If its like your drawing then it should be fine (of course I will deny responsibility if it blows up ). How are you going to splice it? or are you using a terminal block?

 

I was just going to use wire nuts and tape the snot out of it. If a terminal block is the better option, I'll go that route.

John

 

Probably doesn't matter either way but then again I'm not an electrician. The jumper method is pretty neat and clean though