Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

I lost the PM , but i think it was you that PM'd me.. its about 8.5-9", and will float based on on how deeply you thread the fitting.

 

Anyone bought one of these recently from RuralKing and actually received free shipping? I tried to order online and use Paypal to pay and its making me pick a shipping method costing more than the conical and the stand together, and I already entered the FREESHIP code...thanks Im ready to get two on the way, we have rounded up all the stainless to outfit them over the last month or so.

 

I bought mine around the holidays, and got free shipping, just not sure when I'm going to get it. It said 6 - 8 weeks.

 

Well it appears they won't shop for free anymore.

 

The 15 gallons should ship ups, the 30's ship freight

 

I wouldn't buy from RuralKing.... They are wasting your money shipping LTL Freight and rarely stock the conicals they are advertising (6-8 week lead times. really?). My 60 gallon and 37 gallon Conicals shipped FedEx and UPS respectively. Just verified and the quoted SpraySmarter.com for the 60 gallon blow molded Ace-Roto was $40.30 for UPS or $103.60 for LTL Freight.... Hmmmm - tough choice.

 

This is like the second thread I've opened back up after taking a LONG break from homebrewing and this is EXACTLY what I have been wanting to do to my conical to make it airtight and better suited for use as a bright tank/secondary.

I'm digging the dipstick as well, that will come in real handy.

Edit: Have you used this setup with a carbon dioxide blanket? My conical is 15 gallons but I'm not always brewing 15 gallon batches, and I'd hate for that extra air to spoil something. But I reckon if it's airtight, the extra headspace won't make that much of a difference....

 

I'm banking on the initial fermentation creating a solid CO2 blanket. If need be I can purge into the dip tube with pure CO2 and let out any air should I drain some for "sampling".... <grin>

 

Finally putting my 15 gallon conical together. I opted to seal the lid by removing the inner ring the lid screws onto. I put two strips of the rubber "D" style on the lid and I will strap it down. Seems to make a great seal this way, plus less places for crud to hide. Anyways. I was thinking of putting a 3/4 90' barbed fitting in the lid for the blow off tube. I'm thinking if I just barely make the hole big enough I can actually screw the fitting in and make a tight seal. Anyone done this? Also is a 3/4" Tygon tubing a good size running into a bucket? Is there any advantage to going bigger or smaller? Or should I just say screw it and put a big hole with a rubber plug and traditional style air lock? Any help is appreciated. I built myself a brew stand with keggels and pumps that I've never used yet. My excuse was that this conical wasn't ready. I'm tired of excuses haha

 

I have never needed a blow off tube with 11 gallons in there.

 

Is yours sealed air tight?

 

Not at all. I haven't got around to it. My beers are in there for only three weeks max

 

I saw a really simple way to seal the lid of these on probrewer.com forums:

http://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?26572-Plastic-Fermenter-setup

 

This was the link for the gasket they used.. Only $9.99. And he used a blow off tube and took pictures of how it works.

http://conical-fermenter.com/Lid-Gasket-for-15-Gallon-Conical-Fermenter-with-Ring-Clamp.html

 

That's looks pretty good, but having taken the bottom "attached" ring off and seen the gap under it I would still be a little worried. that gasket will seal it I'm sure but you will still get crud under the ring that may be hard to clean. Nothing a good soaking wouldn't clean up but why bother?

 

Food grade silicone works awesome for underneath the threaded collar. Others have had luck with double o-rings in the threads for the actual lid.

 

This just seems the simplest and cleanest, definately air tight. To each their own
$6 for the lid gasket and $1 each for the bungee cords. And yes I'll be doing a blow off tube

 

Never heard of double o-rings.. Have a link or part you could share? Cheers

 

Just 2 o-rings instead of one. Earlier in this thread someone had posted the McMaster Carr part number of the o-rings they successfully used on Ace Roto Mold conicals.

 

I just contacted Rural King yesterday to ask why I haven't gotten my conical yet. I ordered it 8 weeks and 2 days ago. They said they will email me today to find out. LOL.

 

http://www.oringwarehouse.com/ 70-durometer Silicone, Red
This is where i got mine. I can't remember the sizes though.

 

Awesome website. THanks~!

 

The part numbers are 0568-453 & 0568-454. Put one oring on the inside of the screws and one on the ouside



I don't have an oring under the lid so its not air tight as of now

 

So do you guys think this would be a good fit for the valve to connect to the bottom?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JQJOIQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

I would recommend going with a valve that is easily removed. so either :

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GLUML4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GLUMVO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

OR

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html
http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Butterfly-Valve-Squeeze-Trigger-TC10VBFVST1.html

 

I already have this valve.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GLUMVO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The question is connecting the valve to the conical, will this work fine?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JQJOIQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

That one would work. I used the polypropylene one but the SS would work. Ensure you use the ss hose clamp on the conical side. If the valve side leaks I'd seal it with a bead of FDA approved clear silicone adhesive.

 

Would it help to smear all the threads with Keg lube?

 

When I frst built one if these I used the banjo quick disconnects. They made it really easy to remove the valve and clean it after each use.

You obviously use a threaded nipple, but for a few bucks you could set yourself up with the QD's which are nice, before and after the valve.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

So this

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...8.5&ei=0C_xUoSdKMWTyQGYpoCICw&ved=0CH4QpiswAg

and this

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro....3&ei=NzDxUr2ABc2ayQHSgIHgAg&ved=0CO0CEKYrMA8

and this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JQJOIQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

the way mine was set up was:

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...8.5&ei=0C_xUoSdKMWTyQGYpoCICw&ved=0CH4QpiswAg

^ this attached to conical

Then this attached to valve
http://agrimart.net/female-cplg-1-1-2-male-thread-150b/

Then you could attach another Male QD on the other side of the valve which you could attach a homemade yeast catcher to........

the QD's IMHO make it much easier to pull apart and clean the valve......

 

I just pulled the trigger on those 2 items on Amazon Prime, I should get them on Friday. Thanks. I'll think about the yeast catcher options later. I still need to build a stand, etc, so I'm sure it will be a little bit before I get to use this. This is a good start.

 

I did cover my threads with keg lube to ensure I didn't gall the conical's female threads. It made the process much easier and sure didn't hurt anything. Equivalent of teflon tape in my opinion.

 

Just curious, has anyone tried to add a coupling to expand the opening on the out of the valve, and then just screw in a Ball Canning Jar to it? I was thinking of trying that.

 

I have seen where someone did that. I forget exactly how they attached it, but it is a pretty neat idea. I started down that path with mine, and ended up abandoning the Banjo pieces parts, and buying stainless parts from brewers hardware, including an 1-1/2" sight glass that i use as a yeast catcher. I would never go back at this point.

Its great to be able to see what the yeast you have caught looks like. Sometimes theres still a bit of trub in it, so i'll dump and try again until i get the good stuff.

 

the canning jar threads are not the same TPI.

 

i searched for the thread but couldn't find it. I think they may have drilled out a widemouth lid and attached it to a 1" nipple..like a weld less fitting but with a ball lid instead of a kettle.....or something similar.

 

I cut a piece of ss to the same size of a mason jar lid, drilled a 1.5" hole in it for a tc ferrule and silver soldered it. Cut a gasket out of silicone sheet stock and she seals up nice. Works great and I'm doing a 2" one next.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mason-jar-sight-glass-harvester-423808/

 

The tc ferrules are just a bit too small to mate up directly with a mason jar. Even if it did mate up the ferrule is too thick and the lid doesn't thread on enough to provide a reliable seal.

 

Thanks for posting the link, I'm gonna have to make this.