Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

Ok, I went through this thread. I like the look and the price of this option however I never make any batch that big. Could I say make a 6 gallon batch one weekend, then another 6 gallons the next weekend and carefully add the new wort to the already fermenting brew?

 

I just read this entire thread as well great project idea. No pics of the lid seal ever got posted bummer.

 

I would not try that. If you brewed the next day (brew Saturday?Sunday) then yes. Or you could just do two brews one day. Most of the time I brew I do double batches. Really once you get used to it and learn when things need to be done it only adds like 2 hours to the day.

 

Check post #341.

I also posted a link that illustrates the same thing I did to seal the lid.

What more do you need?!

 

Yeah I did a little looking around and came to the same conclusion, thanks. I think that I need to look for something in the 7gallon range.

 

Sorry guys still have my prickly pear honey mead in it so cant open yet to take a pic for you ill get it here soon for ya. It finishing off this week hopefully. Cant rush greatness!

 

Or just brew bigger batches...

 

My guess is that the 15 gal model is the ideal size for my 10 gal batches?

 

yes

 

According to Blichmann and the experience of others (including myself) you can use a 15 gallon conical for 5 gallon batches without issue. There is more than enough co2 produced to keep it well protected. I normally do 6-7 gallon batches, and it works great.

 

Ok guys i broke cardenal rule and opened my conical for a pic so here you go.
1. Remove screws by hand that hold the lid ring on.
2. Put a ring of the rubber "D" shaped weatherstrip around flat surface as close to inner wall as posible. If you did this right you should still see part of the holes for the screws.
3. Use silicone and run a descent bead around lip next to weatherstrip covering screw holes with it.
4. Set ring into place and hand screw your screws back in. Do not use screw gun you will strip the holes out.
5. Use finger and smooth off acess around outside that squished out from the lip.
6. Put 2 seperate rings of weatherstrip around contact surface of lid be sure to put seams 180 degrees out from each other for better seal
















7. screw lid on as tight as you can and let sit for a day to compress it a bit. I used a long screwdriver between lid handles to tighten it with
8. Attach your hardware to your conical for racking and air lock etc. I use a bucket with water and a hose from the top for airlock
See pics for parts etc.

 

Here are sku from ace for supplies

 

Allclene - thanks

 

Sorry one other question - you didn't specifically say that you used silicone on the 2 d strips that you put on the lid - so I assume that you just used the adhesive on the strip - after pulling the tape off or did you put silicone on those too?
Thanks again

 

Guys,

At Agrimart we just lowered our prices a bit more on the 15 gal and 30 gal FD tanks.

http://agrimart.net/inductor-tanks/

Any questions, send me an email at [email protected] - Discounted shipping as well!

Thanks for all your business! Keep in mind Ohio Valley Ag online sales is now Agrimart

Jarrod

 

So, my buddy and I ordered the 15 gal inductor tank. We double checked that we ordered the male threaded full drain inductor, but we actually rec'd the female threaded tank.

So question to you guys. How big of a deal is it? As long as we use PBW to clean and starsans to sanitize do you think I should worry about it? Should I return it?

 

I did the same thing. 2" drain with a bulkhead fitting. Really did not like the grooves in the bottom. It bothered me enough to pay ruralking return shipping to order the correct unit. The 1 1/2" FD version is far superior.

 

If you ordered from Agrimart, I would e-mail Jarrod, he might be able to swap you out for little to no shipping. That happened to me, but my guess is he got his shipping cost back in the added orders, as they now market them as homebrew ferms on the site. Sure would love a second one, wink wink Jarrod

 

Did not use silicond on the strips at all the adhesive on them are good enough silicone only for sealing screw holes and edge of ring

 

Are folks getting the 1 1/2 FPT or 2 MPT? Any concern about the threaded piece internal on the FPT?

 

Might have to make a FAQ for this thread Go with 1 1/2" full drain. It is a better option because there is less grooves and such for stuff to get stuck in. Also, fittings, if you go stainless, are MUCH cheaper for 1 1/2".

 

I'm on my mobile right now so sorry if this has been answered already.


How important is the weather stripping/addidng your own airlock stuff? It seems like the lid being the way it is would work well enough keeping air out. Especially if your only going to do say, ten gallon batches, it seems like the leftover headspace would be more than enough fpr the carbon dioxide.

Just wondering as I'm planning on getting my frame built in the next few days and have some beer that needs to get racked over.

 

I think its a matter of preference really. I prefer a positive pressure airlock to insure no added bacteria etc. Others feel that the leaky lid is sufficient for most brewing from what ive read on this blog. I have noticed that with the air tight seal and airlock my brew has better carbonation retention than i was getting before i got the conical. And i find it easier to push beer out of it into keg reducing further contamination risks. All in all i like the airtight version better than non airtight option. Is there any other opinions on this matter out there?

 

I totally duplicated allclene's method and it works nicely. The D type weatherstripping is better than the ribbed for achieving a seal. I used the DAP food safe silicone to seal the inner and outer edge of the weatherstripping.

I think I can now feel more comfortable using it for wine as well where I can have a blanket of argon at ~1 PSI using a secondary regulator or a low pressure propane regulator.

 

When I ordered mine, a INFD015SWSS 1.5" FPT Full Drain model (ordered via Rural King, drop shipped from Den Hartog), I spent a lot of time evaluating it as a sane fermenter. I ended up deciding that sealing it was pointless due to the design of the moulding.

I removed the screws and inset ring (black), and then used a razor knife and a lot of arm control and force to carve out the excess thin moulding at the top into a smooth opening. I cleaned up the screw holes so that there were no dangling bits of plastic. I then screwed the lid into the inset ring and was done. The inset ring has a smooth form, and the moulding it seats into provides a double ledge for a good gravity seal. The positive pressure of fermentation is more than enough to keep the inside sanitary.

So in my case, the lid is more like a "cap" since it just sets in. I do not unscrew it. I have reduced the overall surface area that could harbor contamination (the screws, stainless or not), and the only thing I lose is the ability to pressure transfer.

Not saying sealing it is a bad idea, it's just simply not necessary with this design. Works great!

 

Linked is a video showing my batch of porter destined for a plastic firkin (purchased at UK Brewing) enjoying a closed fermentation after having applied an airtight seal to the lid assembly.

Please pardon the low production values and voice talent.

http://s1145.photobucket.com/albums/o520/randomzymurgist/?action=view&current=e0a71a4b.mp4

 

I sealed mine up today using this method. Worked perfect. Now what is everyone doing for a fermentation chamber? I want to put this in my garage but it's going to take up a lot of space (because I want two of them). I'm thinking of using an air conditioner and a few reptile heaters to hold temperature, thoughts?

 

I have a 24x24 barn that's insulated and I just keep it at 60* in there.

 

Tri Clover connections on my 15 gal conical fermenter.
This is prob a little more expensive using the TriClover connections but I chose them for 3 reasons.

1. THEY LOOK SWEET!
2. Super easy to work with and clean.
3. Very sanitary.

Derrin from BrewersHardware.com was great helping me out with my order. Below is the list of items I got.

Induction tank I bought: http://www.ruralking.com/15-gal-full-drain-inductor.html
• Fitting on tank- 1 1/2" FPT BOSS $61.00 with FREESHIP

Brewershardware.com items
SKU / Product Item / price / Quantity / Total
TC15M15 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 1.5" Male NPT $19.00 2 =$38.00
TC15CAP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Cap $3.00 2 =$6.00
TC15CLAMP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp $6.00 4 =$24.00
TC15VBFVPT 1.5" Tri Clover Butterfly Valve - Pull Trigger $51.00 1 =$51.00
TC15GASSIL 1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone $1.25 5 =$6.25
TC15SG 1.5" Tri Clover Sight Glass $54.00 1 =$54.00
Subtotal: $179.25
Shipping cost: $14.95

Total: $194.20 + $61(for induction tank)= $255.20

Racking Arm is next once I get some more fun money.

 

I'd like to see this. The tri clover sounds nice.

 

All I have with me is the picture of the parts I got. I will upload some more once the setup is complete.

1. The sight glass will collect the trub in the first 24 hours.
2. Close the butterfly valve and disconnect the sight glass to dump the trub.
3. Clean and sanitize the sight glass to reattach and open the butterfly valve within that first 24 hours so the air that flows up won't harm the beer since the yeast will just be starting the exponential growth phase.
4. Once the yeast floc out you will see pure yeast collecting in the sight glass.

Until I get the cash for the racking arm setup I am going to siphon. Budgets..... you got to love em.

 

Can some post the dimensions of the Ace 15 Gallon Full Drain Tank when in the stand being sold?


http://www.ruralking.com/15-gal-full-drain-inductor.html
http://www.ruralking.com/agricultur...uctor-tanks/15-gal-inductor-stand-for-fd.html

Sorry if I missed this in the previous pages.

 

I haven't got the conical yet, but your setup here is pretty much the route I intend to take... except I don't want to do drill for a racking arm at all.

I want to take this tri clover and add this adapter and keg post.

It seems you could just slap that on there when you remove the sight glass full of yeast, open the butteryfly, and then go from ball-lock fitting to ball-lock fitting right into your keg. No drilling, no leaking racking hole, easier to clean than some of racking arms I've seen on here.

So... it would be really cool if someone would spend the $40 to guinea-pig my idea for me!

 

You leave the valve open when you fill the fermenter, close it to disconnect, and then you're done. No air displacement.

 

you could definatly put a gas in and pressure release on the catcher. fill it up with co2 and bleed out the air before you open the ball valve.
I've brewed multiple times without issues of air in the catcher.

 

@HellBentBrewCo - I plan on storing mine in the garage as well. I am building a fermentation chamber with double pink foam core insulation. Instead of reptile heaters I am using the light bulb can (http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html) to keep up the temperature, and a dorm fridge to cool it down. I am building it this weekend so once it is complete I will let you know how well it works out.

 

Go to this web page and you can download the technical drawing. It is the second one from the top:

http://www.denhartogindustries.com/inductor-tanks

The only thing that isn't specified is the size of the area that fits into the stand. I made my own and cut an 18 5/8" hole and the tank fits perfectly.

 

Great! Thank you!

 

nice, very interested to see this

 

OK... per a request from a fellow HBT member “Apoxbrew” and since no one has yet to explain their racking arm solution, I will show what we did to install a rotating racking arm to the 30 gallon fermenters. I won’t address the Tri-clover fitting setup.This has been done ad nauseam, and I duplicated exactly what others have done before me.

The center of the hole was drilled 6-1/2” up from the where the angle begins at the 1-1/2” FPT extension. When drilling the hole, we used a step drill bit. When we got close to the final size, we removed the bit from the drill and finished the hole by hand (using the bit). The plastic was soft enough to allow quick work. We slightly undersized the hole to allow the threads on the fitting to cut threads into the plastic. BE CAREFUL! Could easily be an oops! The seal is really on the o-ring. We just wanted the secondary protection.

I used fittings from BargainFittings.com:
1. the "new" Keg Weldless Bulkhead with the standard coupling, SS 2-piece ball valve, and the 1/2" Male NPT to 1/2" barb.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=178
and
2. the Side Pickup weldless version Drain/Dip Tube SS kit with the standard compression fitting option.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=157
and
3. 6ft. of 1/2" I.D. silicone tube.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=52&product_id=122
Total cost was in the neighborhood of $70.00 plus shipping.

Racking Arm horizontal, with slight tip upward to allow air to escape, when filling

Racking arm rotated 90 deg downward, leaves a measured amount of a little less than a quart when vacuum breaks on the siphon.
Depending on the wall thickness of your specific conical you may have to Dremel and fine tune the area at the hole, as this weldless fitting only permits about 2 threads to extend into the interior of the conical, which was plenty for the fitting to fasten to on one of ours. Also this is why we decided to use the Silicone O-ring in lieu of the silicone flatwasher that the fitting came with. So far we have done several runs on each conical and no leaks, racking works beautifully as it only needs to rotate once and 90 degrees. Cleanup and disassembly is a breeze, I only tighten as tight as I can with my hands, no tools required.

I am happy to answer any specific questions and edit this thread should this not be clear, or if I have left something out.