Stc-1000+ | Page 58 | HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk by donating:

  1. Dismiss Notice
  2. We have a new forum and it needs your help! Homebrewing Deals is a forum to post whatever deals and specials you find that other homebrewers might value! Includes coupon layering, Craigslist finds, eBay finds, Amazon specials, etc.
    Dismiss Notice

Stc-1000+

Discussion in 'Fermenters' started by alphaomega, Mar 9, 2014.

 

  1. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 20, 2016
    There's a short entry on the STC-1000+ WIKI about modifying the STC to use SSR's instead of the relays.
     
  2. jfenton78

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 20, 2016
    How the heck did I miss the wiki? D'Oh on my part. Many thanks for the help.
     
    alphaomega likes this.
  3. ChucknBeer

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 21, 2016
    alphaomega likes this.
  4. Bigdaddyale

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 25, 2016
    [​IMG]
    Is there instructions on what all of the LEDs mean on the front panel ?
     
  5. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 27, 2016
    I don't think there is.
    But the two dots on the far left is heating/cooling as expected. The third dot is lit when a profile is running if I remember correctly. The upper dot between the two large 8's is lit when viewing temp probe 2 (if two probe firmware). The dot next to the C (and the C if celsius version) is lit when a temperature is displayed. That's about it.
     
    Bigdaddyale likes this.
  6. Bigdaddyale

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 2, 2016
    I want to jump in and start a profile on SP3 instead of going through all of the other steps.How do I do that?
     
  7. Bigdaddyale

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 2, 2016
    2 questions What version did you add the profile running dot and how do I determine what profile I'm running? I think I'm running a profile but there is no profile dot on
     
  8. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 2, 2016
    Start the profile.Change St to 3. (Change SP if wanted/needed). Wait an hour.

    It's pretty much been there from day 1.
    Pressing arrow up / down shows information (SP / profile + step + duration).
     
    Bigdaddyale likes this.
  9. hidara

    New Member

    Posted Apr 7, 2016
    Hey Mats,
    I was looking at that firmware you have for the humidity control and was thinking of using it for cheese. When my fermentation chamber is not in use I like to use it for making cheese but whilst I can control the temps it sits at 99% humidity all the time. I would love to install a fan to blow air through until the humidity drops to a setpoint.
    Is it possible for me to change the hours to minutes in your firmware as 1 hour delay and duration would be too long,
    Cheers for everything,
    D
     
  10. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 7, 2016
    @hidara: You'd have to do some coding to make the changes you need. It does not support minutes as is.

    Cheers!
     
  11. groom

    New Member

    Posted Apr 8, 2016
    How long until I can control my STC1000+ from my phone? ;)

    Just kidding but how's the interface with the ESP8266 going?
     
  12. mtnagel

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 8, 2016
    I have a "Black Box" temperature controller and it's worked flawlessly for over a year. I couldn't find the thread on it and I believe it's based on the STC-1000+ so hopefully this is the right place.

    All of the sudden I can't set the setpoint. I'm in thermostat mode and when I enter a new setpoint, it doesn't actually change it. I change the setpoint and it displays that temp for ~10 seconds and then it goes back to displaying the actual temperature, but it doesn't actually change the setpoint. It appears to run programs just fine, so I'm just using that for now. I've tried resetting with power button and unplugging/plugging. Any ideas?
     
  13. orangehero

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 8, 2016
    Are you pressing set after you set the setpoint?
     
  14. mtnagel

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 8, 2016
    I swear I was, but it worked when I tried it now. Doh! I swear I wasn't even drunk when I trying it before.
     
  15. GilSwillBasementBrews

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 9, 2016

    Well there's your problem lolol
     
    Newsman likes this.
  16. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 9, 2016
    Idk, how far have you come and how much you got left? ;)

    Not at all. I've not made any progress, because I've not worked on it at all. I've just not had the time and/or motivation :)
    It should be in an almost usable state though, so why don't you try it out? Maybe give it a little spit and polish yourself?

    Cheers!
     
  17. hidara

    New Member

    Posted Apr 9, 2016

    Excellent, in pretty comfortable with programming in VB.net so hopefully I should be able to figure it out.
    Id really appreciate it if you could give me a headstart and let me know which file in your github contains the code I need to change and what compilers would I need?
    Cheers
    D
     
  18. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 9, 2016
    @hidara: I suggest using a linux distribution for development. A virtual machine with linux should be fine. I've made some pointers on setting up a development environment on the WIKI.
    The source code is located in the src directory. There are not that many files, so you should be able to find it. I'd guess that page0.c is probably where most work will be.
    There is a lot of conditional compilation for generating the different firmwares.

    Also the relative humidity firmware does averaging and only 'acts' after enough data is above the threshold. That might be fine for you, if just the timebase is sped up, but just so you know about it.

    Code:
    				// Control RH every 7.5 min
    				if(millisx60 >= 7500){
    					control_rh();
    					millisx60 = 0;
    				}
    
    
    Start by changing the 7500 in the above section to say 125 (that is 7500 / 60 (though it will actually really be 128 since millisx60 is incremented by 16 each loop at that point, but whatever)) and see what happens...
    Happy hacking!
     
    hidara likes this.
  19. CNevay

    Member

    Posted Apr 14, 2016
    Hey Mats, I'm looking at building a single vessel electric brewery controller and I'm hoping to use your OVBSC software. I'm sure this gets asked a bunch and I apologize for the repetition, but is the software working pretty well? I'm only planning on using 1 element and I doubt I'll add the pump functionality in my initial set up. Also, I've found some AC to AC relays (Fotek SSR-40AA) so I'm not planning on modifying the STC relay outputs.

    I've only seen a few posts on the OVBSC whereas with the fermentation software there is a lot of various feedback online.
     
  20. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 15, 2016
    @CNevay: I'd say so, I know of a few other guys that'd also say so. I'm sure there's a few people cursing at it as well :)
    To put it like this, I'd consider OVBSC pretty stable, but it might not be the user friendliest controller out there.
     
  21. daewooo10

    New Member

    Posted Apr 15, 2016
    I bought this on ebay Module Atmega328 5v 16M+USB2.0 To TTL 6Pin CH340G Converter F Arduino Pro Mini.
    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=191146731721&alt=web

    I'm going to take a stab at flashing a stc1000 controller that I purchased following the github's instructions. Sorry if it's a repetitive question: how do you put them together? If someone could point me to directions or a diagram even a picture of one I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance

    Dave
     
  22. Bigdaddyale

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 15, 2016
    https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p/commit/7157df8ad847b41795695c53efdc3f6eb547e391
    https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p
     
  23. CNevay

    Member

    Posted Apr 16, 2016
    Mats, I'm going to give it a go! Thank you again for everything you do for the home brewing community. Beers on me if you're ever in Vancouver, Canada!
     
  24. bman100

    New Member

    Posted Apr 18, 2016
    I saw the post above from daewooo10 above. I also bought the same Arduino ebay, the Module Atmega328 5v 16M+USB2.0 To TTL 6Pin CH340G Converter F Arduino Pro Mini: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...731721&alt=web

    In case you need it, here are the pin assignments for this setup:
    DTR -> GRN
    RXD -> TX
    TXD -> RX
    VCC -> VCC
    CTS -> GND (TAKE PIN OUT)
    GND -> BLK

    Best,
    Brian
     
    alphaomega likes this.
  25. mcl

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Apr 20, 2016
    I have made it through 77 pages and did a search of the thread without seeing the answer. I am looking to implement the flow meters for raspberry pints. They use an alamode for the interface to the flow meters. Will this work to program the stc. Does anyone know what the pin layout will be? This is all new to me but it looks very strait forward with all the excellent directions/videos but the different adruino implementations are foreign to me.
     
  26. Bigdaddyale

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 20, 2016
    Why not just go with BrewPi at this point? I'm not sure if it will work or not but I think it should.If not pro minis are real cheap.
     
  27. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 20, 2016
    I see no reason that won't work. The pins would be the the same, D9, D8, GND, 5v and D3. See github for details.
    But I don't think I've heard of anybody else using it, so while I don't think there is anything to it, you're on your own.
    And yes, the Arduino clones are dirt cheap on ebay (but maybe look at UNO or nano).
     
  28. mcl

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Apr 20, 2016
    Thank you. I will probably give it a try. I have 4 stc's but haven't checked the versions yet.
     
  29. T_t

    New Member

    Posted Apr 26, 2016
    I was wondering if I could use this for making cheese. Let me explain: I am using a buffet type water bath food warmer for heating my milk. The stc would be used to heat/control the water bath. As an example I may need to heat the water to 86 deg and hold for x amount of minutes then I need to increase the temp 15 deg over a 30 minute period and hold for x amount of time. I know the STC will do this but it is in hours not minutes.
    Anyone have any input? I have two of these all ready flashed so would prefer to use one of those instead of spending big bucks on a PID.
    Thanks for any help.
    Tt
     
  30. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 26, 2016
    Sure. You can already find a version on github that is (pretty much) the same, except with minutes instead of hours. Or you can use the sketch generator, and select 'STC-1000+ (minute timebase)' to download the sketch.
     
    T_t likes this.
  31. T_t

    New Member

    Posted Apr 26, 2016
    :mug:
    Thank you for your quick response as well as all of your hard work that makes this possible.
    Next I will look into using the humidity sketch to control the RH in my cheese cave (small fridge).
    Tt
     
  32. seaner

    Member

    Posted Apr 27, 2016
    If you're going to be present, you could also just manually bump the temperature a degree every 2 minutes :)
     
  33. dave-s

    New Member

    Posted May 11, 2016
    Hi Matt

    I've recently installed a flashed STC 1000 with your OVBSC firmware on my Grainfather. It's a great improvement, thanks. However, I wish to control the pump also but an having a problem. I can get the pump to work during SO output fine, but during the Mash steps the PO output is 0 unless the temperature falls below the set point, no matter what I set the %age to. Am I doing something wrong here or is this a problem with the firmware? In the meantime I can operated the pump manually.

    Thanks

    Dave
     
  34. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 11, 2016
    @dave-s : Hi! Cool :)
    How have you hooked up the pump? Since you are asking about PO output, I'm guessing you have it hooked up through one of the relays?
    The firmware does support controlling a pump, but the signal for controlling the pump is not through the relay. The relays are for controlling heaters.
    The pump control signal can be found on the back near the tempprobe terminal.
    Read this part and I hope it makes it more clear.

    Cheers!
     
    dave-s likes this.
  35. dave-s

    New Member

    Posted May 12, 2016
    Thanks, Matt, you are right, I had it connected to the 'Cool' relay. I thought that was what you meant by 'unpopulated output'. Will give what you say a try for the next brew.
     
  36. dave-s

    New Member

    Posted May 13, 2016
    One last question if I may. Is the pump signal from the pad right next to the probe connector, or is it one of the three pads grouped together behind the probe connector?

    Thanks

    Dave
     
  37. alphaomega

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 13, 2016
    It is the one unpopulated pad right next to the tempprobe terminals.
    The board is actually prepared to house a three pole terminal, but only two are used, so for pump control, the third (and normally unused) one, comes into play.
     
  38. dave-s

    New Member

    Posted May 14, 2016
    Marvellous, thank you, Matt :)
     
  39. jandyk

    New Member

    Posted May 14, 2016
    Hi Alphaomega, nickmv and rocket4x4, and all others,
    I see everyone on here is smarter than I am, so I wonder-can my semi-cheap controller with its 1200 deg. F. limit be hacked around to achieve 2000 deg. F.? I have today ordered an Auber, but if I could make an arduino do it my dad would be impressed with his tech not-savvy son, and I'd beat the ebay seller who promised between -9999 and 9999 capability. sure it's not for beer it's for a kiln, but I have made mead a couple of times, and exploded some beer bottles in failure too. Cheers to all and any help or directional heading'd be fab. andy
     
  40. stbernts

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 20, 2016
    Hi all,
    New to arduino, hooked it up to my computer today. Loaded the blink sketch - upload complete. Tried to upload the picprog sketch, upload fails.

    Here is the message:

    sketch\ntc-lut-generator\lut.c:5:20: fatal error: unistd.h: No such file or directory

    #include <unistd.h>

    ^

    compilation terminated.

    exit status 1
    Error compiling.


    Board choosen is "Arduino/Genuino Uno" - strange, since Blink works. Anything I miss??
     
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page

Group Builder