Stc-1000+

im sure the next request (assuming you haven't already received it) would be wifi and or Bluetooth type control

 

Well, with the arduino communicating with the STC, you could do anything. It would be really cool if the arduino could be replaced with an ESP8266, that could fit inside the unit and provide wifi communication. But I'm a bit out of my waters there... I think logic levels could be a problem, as well as the actual ESP development. But yeah... It would be sweet to have web access to the thing

 

I am sure I am doing something wrong, i installed a 1K inline on the DAT line, and after flashing the pro mini, I go to serial monitor, if I type in any of the commands, nothing is returned.

I did try one of the other .ino files and am able to flash no problem the controller no problem. Any other basic steps beyond flashing sketch to the arduino and loading serial monitor?
I noticed it says com pin is 9, was thinking that the DAT line is pin 8?

Greg

 

Oh ****! I did it again... ICSPCLK god dammit!!! ICSPDAT goes to the buzzer and that's why it chirps and not just plays a tone on upload... I can't effing believe I got them mixed up once again... Sorry man... It is ICSPCLK... The one at the end of the connector.
The 1k you added to the ICSPDAT line won't hurt, if you can't undo it...
Again.. Sorry!!!

 

You ARE human - I knew it!

 

Like my old college roommate used to say about my major: It's "Confuser Science". He wasn't far off. He also liked to say "To err is human. To really f--- things up requires a computer".

 

oddly enough I switched the 1k resistor over and still get the same result. I can flash the stc-1000 no problem so not sure what is going on as it would seem the connections are all fine

im trying this with my pro-mini, doesn't require the uno or anything like that correct?

 

Ok so what you do is get the picprog_com.ino upload it and flash the stc. Then get the com.ino sketch and upload it. Open serial monitor and you should be able to send 't' to read back the temperature.
Note that you need to have a pulldown resistor on the ICSPCLK line (like the 10k already on the dual probe version). Without a pulldown it wont work.
Edit: oh, and you can't have a probe connected on that line (probe 2) either.

 

Hmm weird yeah I have a 10k in the dual probe spot and now the 1k in the correct spot, cut the wire and inserted 1k inline

Where does it return the temp in the serial monitor screen?

 

Oh I think I skipped a step, oops

 

Originally I hadn't flashed the picprog_com.ino to the STC.

I tried that, then loaded com.ino to the pro-mini and go to serial monitor, no response yet, still user error I am sure, just not sure what.

I have the 10K SMT resistor at R3 already, no secondary probe hooked up

 

I got it to read now, I hit "t" then hit enter, many times before it would display, I probably hit t enter 100 times to get the readings in the pic

 

Do you have a line ending selected?
I have changed the sketch a bit, to read lines, so it needs a line ending selected.
Cool you got it running at least

 

Oh, and I'm sorry that you had to struggle with it. But at least it helps me to better know the pitfalls when time comes to write documentation.

I am currently working on the com sketch and will need to tweak some things a bit more, but this is shaping up real fast...

 

Oh you are right, much better now I couldn't remember where to turn line ending on, staring me right in the face in the serial monitor

Pretty cool!

 

No apologies please, you are the one dedicating all of your time to this stuff

 

I use a ceramic bulb. Works great.

 

Busted!

But you get a free pass for helping me while Alpha was busy changing diapers.

 

Hi again!

So, I have actually updated the test branch with yet another new version of the firmware.
This time I have had a go at implementing the Fine Offset Wireless sensor protocol.

What you do is download the picprog_fo433.ino sketch. Upload it to the STC as normal.

Connect an RF transmitter (power, ground and data line to ICSPCLK). Every 48 seconds it then spits out the temperature (and the state of the relays as humidity) over 433Mhz.
I have a Tellstick Duo already connected to a Raspberry Pi, that I use for some basic home automation. And this will happily read my STC as a temp/humidity sensor.

Now, I don't really know how this work in the states, if you use 315Mhz, and if software will be confused if the temp is in Fahrenheit. But, if this is of any use to anyone else, I guess I'll find out

Cheers!
//mats

 

This new RF test is awesome! Once I get home in a few weeks, I may have to get into flashing my brew by smith to solder in a transmitter.

Just curious, do you ever think there would be a way to add a receiver on the STC and change the set points over RF? I would love to help on the Raspberry Pi side if I can get the RF working in a month to create a temperature dashboard.

Cheers!

 

Cool

If you have the programming header soldered in place, all you need (except for the transmitter) is a few female dupont wires.

Sure, it could be done, but not in this 'simple' way. You'd be better off starting with the communication firmware 'picprog_com.ino' and modify the 'com.ino' sketch to do what you want.
I suppose, if one would be willing to give up the alarm, that pin could be used for RX, but still I think the protocol would need to be custom then.
The beauty of this simple 'hack', is that it will integrate nicely with existing tellstick/rfxcom home automation solutions and the simplicity of the hardware setup.

 

Hi All, awesome hack this, really impressed. One quick question, I live in South Africa, and our power supply is pretty unreliable. As in we lose a couple of hours per day. I know with the stc 1000 standard, it just defaults back to its last set point, what happens with the 1000p if the power goes out?

 

Would it be possible to do this using hc-05 bluetooth serial dongles?

 

It should do the same thing. If it was running a profile, it would resume the profile from last 'one hour' mark (i.e. it saves running state once per hour).

Those dongles are nothing but a wireless serial adapter. That is, it is no different from the controllers point of view than a normal serial line. I don't want to say it is impossible, but for one, implementing serial in software will be tough given the limited resources. Secondly you'd need two lines (rx and tx), so you'd need to remove the buzzer, losing the alarm function.
I really think that for WiFi, serial, or pretty much anything else, you'd be better off connecting the STC with an arduino pro mini using the communication firmware and use the arduino as the bridge to do what you really want.

 

I have only read a fraction of the 180 or so pages yet...

1 quick question...

Is it known if the "Lerway" branded STC-1000... is the flashable type ?
(Are there any reports or people with experience using this unit?)
(Are Lerways known to be made with both flashable and non-flashable types?)


I am looking to buy another unit to flash in the next few days...
if the outlook is good.

 

Just wanted chip in my $0.02 of praise for alphaomega and this project. You're a freakin' genius and are due a ton of thanks and even more beer (fermented under strict temp control of course).

I went out, bought an arduino, pins and wires. Everything worked great and I'm now running 1000+ with a 12V build I've got to both heat and cool a waterbath-jacket using an iceprobe.

Now, I've got this arduino sitting here... I hope I can find a way to eventually contribute to this project.

I just hope I can sell my Johnson 2 Stage controller.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!! THIS IS ****ING AWSOME!

 

Yeah, you really need to go back and read every single post with care first

I'm sorry I really can't tell you anything regarding your question, except that the same probably holds true for Elitech. Just as you say 'branded'. They probably buy cheapest they can. It might be from the same manufacturer, but I don't think there are any guarantees.

Thank you for noticing (the genius part I mean)
That looks like a pretty sweet build, man. Kudos! Is it 12V all the way? I mean the heater is 12V and the STC modified for 12V? If so then is really good!

Cheers!

 

Yes, I flashed a 12V STC and run it off of the power supply of the "IceProbe" ( a 12V peltier chiller). The STC wired to a DPDT relay reverses current to the IceProbe to heat when needed. A rectifier keeps the fan going in the right direction whether heating/cooling.

There is a tiny fountain pump in the cooler keeping the water recirculating and that's 110V. I really wanted all 12V so I tried one of those cheap 12V pumps but it was too noisy.

I *think* the 12V stc just has 2 jumper wires in place of that transformer.

 

Even better, using the iceprobe for heating as well. And clever use of the rectifier bridge. Very nice! I like it!
Do you need the pump? What happens without it?

 

Without the circulation pump the temps really stratify inside -- like more than 5F. I noticed this informally but doing a formal study w/ a bunch of sensors might be the next arduino project (and challenge as I'm not a hardware person).

Circulating the water w/ a quiet $12 fountain pump, the peltier cooling/heating is more efficient, temps stay homogenous and I've never noticed more than 1F difference between the water and the beer, even during active fermentation.

Since water needs to circulate, I can't help but wonder about cooling w/ a couple of peltiers mounted on either side of a CPU water cooling block and recirculating through that w/ the same little fountain pump. The Ice Probes are pricey and about 15F drop is the max for this setup.

 

Thanks for the quick response, and once again, awesome work.

 

Yes, the water may stratify, but I wonder if the fermenting beer will. And by the time it isn't fermenting anymore, then it won't matter.
But there is nothing wrong with using a pump, I just thought it would be one less thing.
Using multiple external pelts, you could get better power efficiency, and/or faster cooling, But 15-20F temp diff is probably about what you can hope for with any pelt setup.

 

Anyone have any sure leads on the A400 v1.0 or v1.1 boards?
We're holding a DIY series on controls with the club, and some folks are starting to ask about availability. Will seems to be out, and BBS only has flashed ones. We're doing hands on with them. I'd grab 10 on a 'sure thing'. I've got plenty you can't program already!

 

Ill have 100 of them in less than a week, I won't be flashing them, not all of them anyway to help guys here with a guaranteed source. Bad news is that 100 at a time I am l ayibg more for them than you can buy them for online, difference being we know that the ones I'm getting are the correct ones for alphas software.

 

A valued member here picked some up back in the beginning of march.

See post: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=6735657&postcount=1720

 

Sounds good to me. I'll have a better feel for the qty by then too.
Will they be listed on your site, or contact you?

 

Ill put them on my site but shoot me an email when you know quantities and ill work something out with you.

 

Yeah, found that, but nervous their source has changed. I've struck out on 'the same seller' already!

 

Totally agree. Sketchy for sure since you can't be certain, and since you have smithabusa as an option I would opt for that also. I think he and I were posting at the same time.

 

Has anyone made a quick reference spreadsheet of the menu items & navigation they could share?