STC-1000 Fan Wiring Diagram

[SeanGC]

I recently purchased two STC-1000 for two ferm chambers. One is a commercial kegerator that I can fit 3, half barrel sankes into, and the other is a Danby fridge that can fit one Sanke.

For the larger kegerator, I want to recirculate the air inside the fridge whenever the controller kicks on, regardless if it's for heat or chilling.

I don't want the fan to always recirculate, just when the the controller kicks on.

I can wire things no problem, as long as I follow a wiring diagram. I also always have someone with more experience looking over my work. However, I don't have much knowledge drawing up diagrams myself. I drew this one up, believing it will be the best solution. However, I'm not confident it is the best approach.

I've attached an image of the wiring diagram, as well as one of the three fans I will be wiring.

Any help or input is greatly appreciated.

 

[tolonen]

Issue with your wiring diagram is you have to have neutral tie directly to each heat/cool source. Cannot go through fan.

If you have two fans that would be easiest. Parallel a fan off of heat source, and other fan off of cool source.

If you only have one fan you would need (2)120VAC relays to isolate power from heat/cool output to fan.

 

[Zepth]

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician. Recommended to consult one before embarking on wiring task. With that said, I have successfully wired a keezer with STC-1000, electric kettle and control panel without issue.

tolonen has it right. If you were to wire the fan in a fashion that it would activate from either power source it would also function as a bridge between heating and cooling causing the two to fight each other. Given the cost of relays that would be needed to isolate the circuits you'd be far better off with another fan. It will be both cheaper and easier to wire.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yowsers! A 35W fan? That can't be right.

Besides, I'd avoid 120V wiring in a damp/wet environment, and use a 12V (PC) one instead through a wall wort.

 

[ajdelange]

Get a couple of 12 V wall warts and plug them into the spare receptacle of the heat load and cool load outlets. Wire the (-) wires together and to the (-) side of an SSR. Connect each of the (+) through a diode (optional) to the (+) terminal on the SSR. Wire AC to the fan through the AC side of the SSR.

Or get a DC fan and wire it directly to the wall wart outputs. Again a pair of isolation diodes would be nice to have but probably are not necessary.


Or better yet, get a couple of 12 VAC wall warts, connect each to a diode bridge and connect the two (+) ends of the diode bridges to a 12 vdc fan.