Standing Pilot for Automated MLT

I've been slowly upgrading my single-tier, 3-burner brewstand since I got it last year and now I'm stumped...
I recently upgraded my mash burner with a solenoid valve (PID controlled) and a standing pilot (Honeywell Q314A). I'm running LP gas with a 40psi regulator. I have individual 1/4-turn valves controlling flow to both the solenoid and the pilot... trouble is that when I get the pilot to light, it looks and sounds like a blowtorch. Anyone have any suggestions for a 1/2" gas needle valve? Is there something else in the system I'm not considering?
Thanks in advance.
Mike

Shots of my system:
Here's the first attempt at a standing pilot... just used a piece of 1/4" copper and pinched the end... got it to light, but it wasn't a very constant flame...


Here's a shot, top down, with the Honeywell pilot installed:

 

my guess is that pilot light is designed for an 11" wc (about 1/2 psi) low pressure system. This is really not safe. Best way to automate this is with a honeywell 8200 valve on low pressure. The pilot is part of the valve and wont open should the pilot go out. your solenoid has no safety and could be deadly.

 

Short cuts in gas plumbing = short cuts to death... :cross:

 

I think a high-voltage spark ignition with a flame detection safety would be a better choice.

 

Junkster:
Care to share a link to what you have in mind here? The 'search' function was not my friend on this!

Also - I appreciate all the safety concerns expressed by the responders, but I don't know who in their right mind would leave their brewstand unattended for more than a minute or two while running...

I did find this gas needle valve when reading a post that came up in the 'similar threads' section:
http://www.etundra.com/3_16__Pilot_Adjustment_Valve-P26772.html.
Looks like it may be a winner...
Anyone have experience/opinions on this valve?

Thanks!
Mike

 

I believe this thread describes the setup junkster was refering to:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/gas-temperature-control-dummies-116632/

 

The challenge is more than lack of attendance. Some burners are very quiet and some burner flames (based on stand design) are not readily visible.

We moved to a 'Smart Valve' unit due to it's compact design and lack of need for a divorced control module. The ignition is hot surface and only switched 24VAC is required to run the system.

I know, there are plenty out there that believe this is overkill. But we are building stands that have to work for customers and safety/liability must be addressed.

 

Shoot, I sure wish I'd have known about those smart valves before I bought the valves with the separate control unit. Would've been a much "cleaner" looking install. Oh well.

 

Mock up of those Smart Valves

 

My set up is very similar except I use NG. I beleive its all 1/4" So it looks like you need to get rid of the ball valve feeding the pilot and put that reducing bushing in it's place. Then http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=needle%20valve&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL and finish 1/4'' tubing to pilot.
It's not as safe as the auto pilots but like you said, it's not meant to be run unattended!

 

the stand in the photo above is NG

 

Thanks for the link RK - in the search results that come up, it looks like I want this one. Not sure how I missed that at HD. Will have to give it a try this weekend.

Hoppy - thanks for the uber safe valve link and reference images... if I were selling brewstands, I'd cover my ass too! Definitely a much more elegant solution than the valves with the separate control unit!

Cheers!

 

The Honeywell Smartvalve referenced above by OneHoppyGuy is probably the simplest, most compact package. A lot of the newer furnaces use the hot surface ignitor rather than the high-voltage ignition. Some control modules provide ignition voltage and the safety logic / valve control in one unit; others I've seen separate the ignition function which adds to the complexity.

 

I currently own 1 of each type, and I really, really like the hot surface setup that OneHoppyGuy showed.

The sparker type needs yet another enclosure and the high voltage spark causes all kinds of issues with other electronics unless you take preventative measures like snubbers on the relay and/or SSRs for the valve.

The hot surface just works. Gets hot, lights pilot, burner lights, done. No drama.