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Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

Discussion in 'Equipment/Sanitation' started by FiveKaiBrewing, Mar 2, 2011.

 

  1. Malloy

    Active Member

    Posted Nov 22, 2013
    Thanks a bunch, I'll have them do that the Next time. Rice hulls in grain mix before adding, Righto ! :)
     
  2. Sprouthog

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Nov 23, 2013
    If you add them separate from the crushed grains they tend to float. If you mix them with the crushed grains and add the combine mixture there are few if any floaters.
     
  3. fy0d0r

    Member

    Posted Nov 26, 2013
    I've done my brew, all as described above, no geysers, got 70% efficiency :confused:

    Not sure what to blame for low efficiency now, will probably try to get fresh base malt next time as mine was from 2012 crop.
     
  4. Sprouthog

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Nov 26, 2013
    Old malt can have some effect if not stored properly. Did you meet your OG? That's the important thing.
     
  5. pjk49202

    Senior Member  

    Posted Nov 27, 2013
    FWIW, when I try and pack a lot of grain in the 20 l tube for the 50 l model, I mash for 90 minutes to get 75% BHE. I did a 60 min once with a very full malt tube and my efficiency was around 65.
     
  6. dinnerstick

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 27, 2013
    thanks, must be a difference between oat and rice hulls then.
     
  7. FLuKe

    New Member

    Posted Nov 27, 2013
    Hi!

    This is my first post here so sorry if it's a n00b question! I am thinking about getting the 20L Braumeister and I am still confused on how you are hooking it up? Are you using a converter, If so what size is is best? I saw one of the earlier post about a 5000 watt converter. Or are you upgrading the plug to a US dryer plug?

    Thanks!
     
  8. leosardinha

    Member

    Posted Nov 28, 2013
    No one can help me?
     
  9. Sprouthog

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Nov 28, 2013
    Dryer outlet unless you have no other means of power. Post 2186 has some good info for upgrades and accessories.
     
  10. ShakaZuluXI

    Member

    Posted Nov 29, 2013
    If you are willing to drop $2000 or more on this system...spend another $350 and hire an electrician to install a 220v outlet. That's what I did. .. Seems like a no-brainer to me. I really don't understand why people want to try and run this with a 110v adapter. You are dealing with an expensive, complex electronic device that will be circulatiing extremely hot/ boiling liquid....why risk electrocution, fire, damage to the electronics in the Braumeister, etc. just to try and save a couple hundred bucks? Just my 2 cents.
     
  11. FLuKe

    New Member

    Posted Nov 30, 2013
    So I see everyone is upgrading to a dryer plug, but I do not have that option. I live in a rented townhouse and the dryer is upstairs, and I cannot add a new plug in the garage. So what do you recommend? Not getting one until I can get a dryer plug wired somewhere or can I use a converter?
     
  12. jpc

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Nov 30, 2013
    Buy or make yourself an extension cord for it... I don't recall the exact price, but I recall that a 50 foot one from Amazon was around $100.
     
  13. ShakaZuluXI

    Member

    Posted Nov 30, 2013
    Have you considered talking to your landlord about adding a 220v outlet in the garage? If you are willing to pay for it...they may allow it.

    I see using a 50ft extension cord on a 220v appliance filled with basically what could be considered boiling "sugar water" to be a major hazard, but perhaps that's just me not wanting to win a Darwin award.

    Personally, if it were me, I'd be saving my money so I could opt out of being a renter...and own a place that I could use as I see fit. Hell....given that our government is still stupidly letting people buy houses via the FHA with only 3% down....the amount of money you would spend on a Braumeister along with whatever electrical option you chose could almost cover the down payment on a townhouse you would own....depending on where you live. Sorry if this is raining on your parade...I guess the father in me can't help but try and offer financial advice....like I have to do for my two daughters all the time.
     
    Jette likes this.
  14. brautim

    Member

    Posted Dec 1, 2013
    Answer to question 2 is 4cm.

    Answer to question 1 below:

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. lylo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    4cm brautim or 40?
     
  16. Nesto

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    Ok, so I tried my first high gravity recipe (trying to clone Lagunitas Doppelweizen). I added 2.2 kg of liquid malt extract with about 15 minutes to go in the boil, having warmed it up and stirred while adding. When I was cleaning the Braumeister pump after the brew, there was a pretty good amount of extract in the pump, it looked like enough to gum up the pump pretty good.

    Has anyone encountered this? How did you deal with it?
     
  17. jpc

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    That's curious... Seeing that the Braumeister has to be plugged in anyway, what difference does it make if the outlet is 5 feet away or 50 feet away? If you're really concerned, add a GFCI to it. That would be a good recommendation anyway.
     
  18. cpa4ny

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    Nesto - I just stick the hose nozzle into the pump opening inside the BM - blows all the crap out from the other end. Repeat on the other hole. Have done > 20+ brews on my 20L BM, never had a problem with my pump. And I am very careful about putting the malt into the grain pipe - I usually use the flipped-over copper hood as a fail-proof grain funnel.
     
  19. DeGarre

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    Yes, when I added treacle or sugar traight into the boil. Now I take out some wort and mix the sugar into it until totally dissolved, then add back to the boil.
     
  20. leosardinha

    Member

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    Thanks Brautim!

     
  21. ShakaZuluXI

    Member

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    Current draw can produce heat. This can present a fire hazard....especially of the gauge of the cord is not large enough, or if there are any defects in the protective shell around the cord. It is the current converted to heat by the resistance of the copper which is dangerous and can melt the wire and cause a fire if your cord is not sized properly. The longer the cord run, the higher the resistance will be....and thus the greater risk of overheating and starting a fire.

    Additionally, a long extension cord can be a tripping hazard....a big problem when it is hooked up to a pot of boiling liquid IMHO. :rockin:
     
  22. Nesto

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    That what I was thinking... good to hear it works OK.
     
  23. Nesto

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 2, 2013
    It wasn't so much an issue with the cleaning - I actually open up the pump every time I clean the BM to wipe it out. That's easy enough. Was really wondering what people do to add liquid extract.
     
  24. jpc

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 3, 2013
    I didn't suggest to use a $2.00 16# extension cord to carry 30 amps of current. Clearly the gauge of the wire required is determined by the current draw. This is precisely why the 240V 30 A extension cords cost a couple bucks a foot. Yours is a strawman argument.

    And a long extension cord is no more a tripping hazard than anything else. You still have to plug in the unit somehow.

    There is nothing inherently dangerous about using an extension cord. And if I were in a rental unit where I couldn't modify the electrical system, I wouldn't hesitate for a second to use one.
     
  25. ShakaZuluXI

    Member

    Posted Dec 3, 2013
    What I said is not a "strawman argument", it is a statement of fact genius.
     
  26. zlorf

    New Member

    Posted Dec 3, 2013
    I couldn't find an answer to this in the thread, so can someone please tell me the thickness of the steel on the 20L & 50L units?

    304 stainless?
     
  27. jpc

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 4, 2013
    OK. You win, Spanky.

    I'm going to write my Congressman and ask him to push for a ban on extension cords because some people are too stupid to use them safely.
     
    iijakii likes this.
  28. ShakaZuluXI

    Member

    Posted Dec 5, 2013
    You should do that. People like you need to be protected from yourself.
     
  29. dinnerstick

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 5, 2013
    i wish there was a way to block pointless insults and bickering from the useful threads on HBT, so that they could carry on but i couldn't see them
     
  30. DrinknBuddy

    Active Member

    Posted Dec 5, 2013
    Just add that user to your ignore list
     
  31. jpc

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 6, 2013
    You were the chicken-little spouting off about the dangers, Spanky.
     
  32. ShakaZuluXI

    Member

    Posted Dec 6, 2013
    Lets see...you posed a question "whats the difference if the outlet is 5 or 50 feet away?" And I provided a simple, fact based answer to your question. Then, because you are clearly some genius engineer, you felt the need to go off on me for simply providing a fact based anwer to the question you posed. You are nothing but a pompous jerk who always has to be "right" and have the last word. Have a nice day.
     
  33. tagz

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 6, 2013
    PM each other if you want to continue arguing. None of us are interested. Now back to the thread that is going to end up costing me two grand.
     
    dinnerstick likes this.
  34. NervousDad

    BFM  

    Posted Dec 6, 2013
    Are there replacement elements available for it and are they standard? Also, if I got the 50L could I then use the Shortened Mash Pipe to brew bigger beers over 1060?
     
  35. Toggels

    Member

    Posted Dec 8, 2013
    Good question, I don't think this has been covered in the forum. (replacement heating element).
    You might have to check with the distributer..

    I have the 20L and haven't had an issues brewing beers up to 1.074 ish... I haven't tried anything bigger as of yet.
     
  36. lylo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 8, 2013
    I haven't run the numbers yet but I am planning to do a barley wine soon and thought that I will just cut my final volume back to about 2 1/2 gal and up the grain bill. Anything wrong with this idea?
    Having been kegging for the last 3 years I shudder at the thought of bottling again but with all of the 1l bottles I have know it shouldn't be so bad. Or maaybe I'll find a 2 1/2 gal cornie under the tree.;)
     
  37. dinnerstick

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 10, 2013
    are you going to try to mash in a low volume? you need enough water for the mash and then end up at 9.5L after the boil. the minimum to circulate the mash depends on how much grain is in the tube, so let's say you need 16 liters of water to circulate? i'm not super confident on that number, just kind of thinking out loud. then don't sparge and collect 11 liters?, boil down to 9.5?,,, could work.... but i think you are limited by 1. minimum amount of water needed to circulate and 2. amount of grain you can cram in and still get good circulation. point 1 depends on point 2, and point 2 depends on the grain itself, the crush, and probably the mash chemistry.
     
  38. leosardinha

    Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2013
    So mine has just arrived, proud owner of Braumeister now :rockin:

    photo (2).jpg

    photo (3).jpg

    photo (4).jpg

    photo (1).jpg
     
  39. lylo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2013
    thanks dinnerstick, I had thought that I would just boil down to my final volume. I expect this may cause some flavour issues (camelization ?) but not sure.
     
  40. lylo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2013
    Congrats leosardinha. Now the fun really starts!!
     
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