Simple Kettle Controller Help?

Hello all!!!! New to the forum. Lots of great stuff here. Sorry if this is a repeat.

Im looking to build a simple kettle controller. Just want to be able to bring it up to a boil or roll it back, etc. Id like an on/off switch, a 240 cord coming out of the enclosure, and and 240 outlet on the other side of the enclosure. Basically, I want this one from high gravity, but wanna do it myself for a lot less.


http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/Electric-Kettle-Controller-306p3084.htm

Alien posted this 220V 10,000W SCR regulator from ebay in another thread.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10000W-220v...8405275?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2753 6d1b

Im wondering if that SCR is as simple as it looks? Just throw it in a box and go?

What enclosure should I use and do I need anything else special in there, etc?

If anyone has ANY suggestions, diagrams, links to better parts, it would be MUCH appreciated.

I will have a real electrician look over the final product once built.

Thanks for any help!!!

 

I got a diy potentiometer sp? bare bones kit from a site called stilldragon.com for around $50

 

That seems like a fairly simple device there, but if it will handle the load... great. Looks like the heat sink needs some solid air flow, so I would measure the distance between the mounting surface of the heatsink and the mounting surface of the control knob, and try to find a project box with matching dimensions. Cut a circle hole in one side for the knob, cut another hold on the opposite side to poke the heat sink out of, and you're in business.

Alternatively, find a 240V fan and mount it in a larger box and keep the heatsink internal to the box.

 

I have it controlling a 240volt 5500 watt element. I don't think you would need a 240 volt fan, 120 volt would work. You would have to wire it in parallel off of the unmetered leg of 120.

I'm not an electrician so please speak to one before doing any of this of course please.

 

Would this thing still work with a 120v element ?

 

What about a 555 timer, ssr and resistors/caps? Could end up even cheaper than this thing, and quite simple to wire up.

Something like this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Yet-Another-Simple-Pot-controlled-555-PWM-generato/

 

I have tried to use several 120 volt elements before in the past and have had poor results.

 

The 10000W unit is oversized to govern a single element so I doubt a fan is necessary. Just mount the board so that the heatsink sticks out the back of the box with the fins oriented vertically and convection will do the rest.

The two hot wires from the 240V supply (e.g. dryer cord) go in the terminals on one side. The power supply to the element goes out the other side. Mount the board in a metal case: make sure that the solder traces on the back do not touch the bottom of the case. Bolt the ground wire to the case using a crimp eye and a lock washer.

If you want an on/off switch, get a DPST switch rated at or above the max current that the element will take and wire it up so that it breaks both hot wires before they go into the power terminals.

If you intend plugging this into a 30A dryer circuit the thermal breaker should provide overcurrent protection, but you should check what size the breaker is. It should be greater than the max current taken by the element, but not excessively greater.

 

I built this controller in the last month. I would say mounting a circuit board was somewhat a task. I possess what I would describe as rudimentary skills when it comes to building things. The controller has worked fine for two boils. I built it with the heat sink enclosed. I definitely feel the heat in the box and such, but not too hot to touch. Be sure to get a large enough box/enclosure. Once all that 10-gauge wire is running in and around, it can get pretty tight. For as much brewing as I hope to due, I took a gamble and speculated it will be reliable enough, if it isn't, I will go a different route.

 

Nice. Any pics? Waiting for the SCR in the mail.

 

Would this switch be able to handle the load?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005I7LONC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Sorry for not getting back to you in a timely response. Sorry, no pics of the controller. There is not much to it. My enclosure looks a bit rough. I never used the proper cable clamps/conduit to ensure it was waterproof.Now that it is closed up and working, I don't feel like messing with it. I used a dpdt switch.

 

Any updates on this controller? I am curious how it ended up working out.