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Shank Cutting / Shortening

Discussion in 'Kettles, Mash Tuns & Hot Liquor Tanks' started by outside92129, Aug 2, 2013.

 

  1. #1
    outside92129

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Aug 2, 2013
    To make a shank shorter all you have to do is cut it, the hard part is getting close enough to perpendicular to the shank and getting the face smooth to give you a good seal. Complicating matters will be the threads, if you're using a flexible blade(eg hack saw) then your blade will sink between the non-perpendicular threads and you'll be getting a crooked cut. I did the following to get a perfect cut:

    Tools/materials:
    1) saw
    2) file(s)
    3) fine grit sandpaper
    4) vice

    1) With 4 (old) shank nuts, put two on either side of the cut with the gap set at blade with + a hair of extra space so the blade doesn't jam. Two nuts tightened together will prevent them from moving. Have the larger nut face toward the blade for greater surface/guiding area.
    2) Make the cut with the vice gripping a pair of nuts. (did i just say that?)
    3) File down the cut marks
    4) Sand down file marks.

    I used a bandsaw which made the cut very quick and minimized the damage to the nuts. They're still usable with just some cosmetic scratching, if you use a hack saw expect more and deeper scratches which may penetrate any corrosion protection (because you'll probably be sloppier than the bandsaw). I did this on a brass shank but there's no reason why you couldn't do this on stainless steel as well, it'll just take a bit more time and elbow grease.

    In the pics from left to right:
    1) shank ready to cut
    2) visible saw marks
    3) sanded and ready to go

    tn_DSC01211.jpg
     
    passedpawn and Jacinthebox like this.
  2. #2
    ajdelange

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Aug 2, 2013
    I would have titled this 'Saw Shank Redemption'
     
    Pratzie, outside92129 and passedpawn like this.
  3. #3
    Pratzie

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Aug 2, 2013
    yes!
     
  4. #4
    outside92129

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Aug 2, 2013
    It's 10pm, the kids are in bed, and i'm laughing my ass off!
     
  5. #5
    outside92129

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Aug 15, 2013
    Just did this on some new stainless steel shanks, works great. The SS is quite a bit harder than brass and takes twice as long (more filing, sanding). After filing i started with 150 grit then finished up with 320.
     
  6. #6
    microbusbrewery

    Senior Member  

    Posted Aug 15, 2013
    I gotta ask the obvious question...since these are new shanks, why not just buy the correct length and save the hassle?
     
  7. #7
    outside92129

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Aug 15, 2013
    I couldn't find the right length anywhere. They're for my T-tower and with the cooling blocks, insulation, tail pieces i only have a small window of possible sizes. There are more possible sizes with brass/chrome shanks and i found the right size but not in stainless : (
     
  8. #8
    passedpawn

    Some rando  

    Posted Aug 15, 2013
    Great idea.
     
  9. #9
    microbusbrewery

    Senior Member  

    Posted Aug 15, 2013
    Ahh, that makes sense. Those towers are pretty tight. I think stainless is a much better choice long term too.
     
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