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Serving beer through 1/4" hose

Discussion in 'Bottling/Kegging' started by wstandis, Dec 9, 2008.

 

  1. #1
    wstandis

    Active Member

    Posted Dec 9, 2008
    I have a bunch of 1/4" ID hose from micromatic. I know that most dispensing hose is 3/8. Could I use this 1/4" hose and just make a longer run? I would hate to throw it away.
     
  2. #2
    Gonefishing

    Someday I'll stop procrastinating

    Posted Dec 9, 2008
    I thought most dispensing hose is 3/16"... it's what was recommended to me anyway. I had foaming problems with 1/4"
     
  3. #3
    McKBrew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 9, 2008
    I'd recommend 3/16" hose. Regardless of all of the calculators, I'd recommend at least 10' lines with 3/16. For 1/4, you'll probably want 15-20"
     
  4. #4
    wstandis

    Active Member

    Posted Dec 9, 2008
    I just bought a 15 ft section of the micromatic 3/8" id hose for a homemade glycol system This that is long enough?
     
  5. #5
    BierMuncher

    ...My Junk is Ugly...  

    Posted Dec 9, 2008
    15' should be long enough, though most system require you draw off the first hose lengths worth to rid the lines of CO2 bubbles and old beer. 15 feet of 3/8ths beer will probably cost you 4-5 ounces per session.

    Plus...15 feet of hose is a PITA to have to manage in a confined space like a kegerator.

    Why not just get some 3/16ths hose and git-her-done proper like? :)
     
  6. #6
    wstandis

    Active Member

    Posted Dec 9, 2008
    they dont sell it - This is the only hose they sell that carries two types of beer:

    Beer Line Hose - Trunk Line

    I guess i could pull out the 3/8 and put in the 3/16.
     
  7. #7
    wstandis

    Active Member

    Posted Dec 10, 2008
    Not sure I understand this - are you saying that the beer in the line will not stay fresh? isnt that the whoe point of this system?
     
  8. #8
    MikeInCtown

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 10, 2008
    Most hpse we use is 3/16. You could sue the 1/4" but you would need a lot of it and it's not worth it.

    Save the 1/4" hose and if it's braided use it for gas line in a portable setup or use it next time you add more kegs or redo your system.
     
  9. #9
    BierMuncher

    ...My Junk is Ugly...  

    Posted Dec 10, 2008
    Not so much that the beer won't stay "fresh", but if you examine a beer line that has been sitting for even several hours, CO2 bubbles accumulate and create pretty substantial pockets in the lines. These pockets of CO2 will wreak havoc on your first pour.

    And to an extent...yes, beer that sits in the beer lines for a week will become stale.
     
  10. #10
    Hugh_Jass

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 10, 2008
    Why at least 10' of hose?

    Is this 10' run from CO2 bottle to keg or from keg to fawcet?

    I'm getting ready to assemble my lines, so I'd like to do it correctly the first time.

    Thanks in advance
     
  11. #11
    wstandis

    Active Member

    Posted Dec 10, 2008
    This shouldnt be a problem :mug:
     
  12. #12
    EdWort

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 10, 2008
    Sure they do. It's $0.80 cents a foot.

    [​IMG]

    Beer Line Hose, Clear Vinyl
     
  13. #13
    Baldy_Beer_Brewery

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 10, 2008
    If you get pockets of co2 after a few hours, your co2 is coming out of solution in the lines. This is likely due to your dispense pressure being too low. I know it sounds odd that too low of pressure will cause this but it's true.

    And yes this will cause trouble on the first pour as well as not let the beer keep the proper carbonation levels.

    I have 5' of 3/16" beer line and no problems with even the first pour of the day despite a non-cooled tower.
     
  14. #14
    Deacon1856

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    FYI - I cannot get 3/16" line over the nipple of my shank. Even heating it. The nipple is 1/4" (assembly from Hearts Homebrew). This is part of what caused me to lose an ENTIRE KEG OF HEFE the other week. I'm using 1/4" this time. Beer doesn't last long enough to get stale in my house.
     
  15. #15
    wildwest450

    Banned

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    You don't necessarily need 10' of hose. Most people won't take the time to properly balance their draft systems, and long beer lines is an easy fix to stop foaming. There's a ton of articles on balancing online, http://www.micromatic.com/keg-beer-learning-center-cid-3076.html is a good resource.
    I will warn you, getting your system perfect can be a ridiculously diffucult undertaking. I've been fiddling with my 2 tap setup for close to a year. For some reason one line is 6ft. the other is 5ft (from keg to tap). They both pour the same if you let them sit for a minute or a month, perfect. :mug:
     
  16. #16
    MoRoToRiUm

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    Huh, I've never had that problem... I know when I upped the length of my lines that came with my tower, I actually boiled the water in the microwave and soaked it for 30 seconds- I didn't feel like removing the shank so just did it in the tower, no problem.

    I would recommend 3/16 micromatic lines as well...
     
  17. #17
    Baldy_Beer_Brewery

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    Deacon, is your 3/16 line actually beer line or is it something a little more rigid. I got mine over the 1/4 barbs on my fittings without so much as breathing hot air on them straight from the kegerator.
     
  18. #18
    Deacon1856

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    I get my lines from a supplier here in town. I guess it's a bit more rigid. It's the line that factories around here use. Food grade. Cheap. Just rigid. It fit over my two shanks from AHS, but the nipples on my 2 new shanks is noticeably bigger. Maybe I'll try the water...I used a heat gun the first time.
     
  19. #19
    Bobby_M

    Vendor and Brewer  

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    Oh, you're trying to stretch polypropylene or ethylene and it isn't going to happen. That stuff actually isn't meant for hose barbs but rather compression fittings.
     
  20. #20
    Deacon1856

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    It's tough, that's for sure. I got the 3/16 over 2 of my barbs using heat. Once they're on there all the way, you have to cut them off. The cool quickly and HARD. It's just a matter of getting them all the way on there.
     
  21. #21
    giligson

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    You can strech polypropylene over a barb but its a bit of a pain. heat the barb to about body temp with a torch, apply lube, torch your hose lightly while turning until it starts to become more transparent (but not until it bubbles and bursts into flame).
     
  22. #22
    MoRoToRiUm

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 11, 2008
    How stiff is this line in your kegerator?

    Just wondering- From the sounds of it, I don't see it to be very flexible... I use micromatic lines and am quite happy (didn't buy from micromatic). They have very thick walls, and even under cold, they are very flexible.
     
  23. #23
    devin_mac

    Active Member

    Posted Dec 12, 2008
    put a little lubrication on the barb, and heat the hose end in a pot of boiling water, it'll slide right on. I have to enlarge that same type of hose for hydroponics projects all the time. It's a pain, and you need to cut it off if you ever need to remove it, but it saves you from having to buy different sizes of hose. :)
     
  24. #24
    wstandis

    Active Member

    Posted Dec 12, 2008
    There is a drastic difference in the vinyl hose that most people use in kegerators and the Polyethylene Tubing that is used in the glycol systems.

    I am using the Polyethylene Tubing.

    By the way I spoke with a rep from micromatic and he said that (by blind luck on my part) I had the perfect set up with my hoses

    3/8 - id Polyethylene Tubing running 15 feet and vertically 6 feet.
     
  25. #25
    Bobby_M

    Vendor and Brewer  

    Posted Dec 12, 2008
    The 6' vertical makes a huge difference.
     
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