sanke fermenter - dip tube and drain issues

I'm on my way to completing a sanke fermenter with the following specs:

upside down sanke
2" tri clamp to 2" stainless ball valve on the bottom
4" tri clamp to modified end cap on the top

Here is the issue - I ordered 2 corny post adapters and the plan was to drill and tap the 4" end cap and install a gas in and liquid out post. Problem is that the adapter do not work with liquid out. The new working plan is to tap a 1/4" threaded hole in the end cap. Screw the adapter all the way in, allowing some threads to be usable on the bottom of the cap, tehm attach a compression fitting to it. To the compression fitting add the dip tube.

First - does this sound reasonable?
If so, what is the OD of a corny dip tube?

Second - on the bottom of the fermenter where I have the 2" ball valve, I would love to add some sort of a clear housing (like a water filter housing) to see how much trub is coming out. Problem is I can't find any way to attach something to a 2" sanitary fitting. Any ideas?

 

Here is my first thought:

Stainless - Glass Sight Gauge - 1 inch flow | MoreBeer

 

that is perfect, although VERY expensive! Perhaps I can find one cheaper...

 

a bit off subject... I have a friend who took his sanke keg and made it into a fermenter. He cut a hole in the top and used a lid from a corny keg to seal the top. He hooked a clover fitting to the now bottom sanke keg tap hole and has a nice big ball valve attached to make a dump valve. He then drilled a hole near the now bottom on the side through the sanke keg handle and silver soldered a tube to it. That is where he kegs from. he dosn't, however use anything but gravity to move his fermented beer. Also attached to the skirt is 3 legs with casters on the bottom. Can just wheel it around. Sounds like you got a similar thing going but will have the advantage of using compressed co2 to move your beer around. Happy brewing! :rockin:

 

sounds like a similar idea - I actually thought about adding legs and casters, but I've got to figure out the liquid out thing first.

 

St Pat's of texas has a 4" modified end cap that would be perfect - it is used as a wine barrel topper - exactly what I need, but it is $130. Any idea of what components are used here?

St. Patrick's of Texas

 

That's a lot of money. I still don't understand why anyone would change their Sankes to ferment. I know I am biased, but they are so easy to use "as is." I'm all for the project, but I have to voice the fact that they do work just fine for some of us in their natural state. I always have to chime in on keg threads so at least it is said, lol.

 

I have a freebie sanke coming my way - I'll try the closed system on that one, assuming I can get a hold of a cheap coupler.

 

Not even closed system. Just pop the dip tube assembly out and stick in a big enough stopper with airlock, or large enough tubing for blow off. They are great, I just like my closed system for myself. Cleaning a keg is as easy as Oxy-Clean or PBW for an overnight soak. Very happy with keg ferments so far.

 

Thats what I do. I use an orange carboy cap. It took some convincing the first time, but is good to go after that. It is like a huge, unbreakable, carboy. After the first few years of brewing, I no longer need to see what is going on inside the fermenter.

 

LOL, that is the same thing I feel. I have done this so long, I don't even take final gravity in my closed system until I have a beer off the tap. Then I degas and measure gravity. As far as looking, who needs it now? I use time as my gauge, and a drop on my refractometer for estimated gravity. I waste nothing but 1 qt to sediment, and that is because I cut my dip tube (like an idiot). Doing it all over, I wouldn't alter the keg at all. It is so nice having my beer carbonated at the end of week one, and then it brightening and conditioning awaiting a 3 week transfer to a serving keg (under counter pressure of course). But, I wanted to use a keg like RyanPA spoke of before I read anything about closed-system pressurized fermentation. Kegs are awesome, and in my brewery they serve multiple use. Fermentation, beer storage/serving, Star-San holder, etc. I don't know what I would do without my little Sankes either. It would be hard to ferment in a smaller one, but man do they split up a big 1/2 bbl into nice carrying portions. Lugging a 15.5 around is the pits. Thank God for me having to move with gas during transfers. That really saves my back.

 

you could use a 30 inch racking cane with a modified 3/8 compression fitting. i just converted a sanke with a 2 inch tri clover end cap and clamp. used a 3/8 barb fitting and than the comp fitting works great

 

Orange Carboy Hood, heated in water and stretched over the hole in the keg. Works like a charm! Then you can use a racking cane and a little positive air pressure to start your siphon. http://morebeer.com/learn_vids/vids_sss

 

Checky checky...

Clover fitting, racking arm, blowoff port, and optional thermowell - all stainless: http://www.brewershardware.com/fermenter.htm

If I get my paws on a couple more kegs, one of these this is on the shopping list.

 

How do you dry hop in the sankey? Or do you just dry hop in the serving vessel? Do you have to be careful to filter the sediment out of your wart in order to keep from clogging the dip tubes? I want to make the switch (just got a 15.5), but I just got used to dumping all the trub right into the carboy and racking off of it after dry hopping.

 

I dry hop in the serving keg (corny).
As for racking cane/leaving trub, I use a rubber o-ring modified compression fitting and a SS racking cane. You can slide the racking cane up and down while under pressure to get every bit of goodness. A clear hose on the end of the racking cane along with a liquid-out corny coupler allow for direct pressure transfer to the corny and a visible way to check for clear wort.
Check this thread: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=44344