RIMS for Dummies

I was having trouble with Stout's website and couldn't find a firm quote for their RIMS tube for comparison. Would either of you point me in the right direction?

 

http://conical-fermenter.com/products/mash-tuns/

Scroll down past all the mash tuns and look at the options at the bottom. It's $150.

 

Still haven't received my RIMS tube. I called Glacier and looks like it's stuck in customs. Luckily, I am in no rush to complete this project.

 

Customs? Where is it comming from? I live like 5 mile from their shop.

 

Maybe you can pick it up for me?

I'm not sure I didn't ask. Figured it was coming from Canada.

 

Anyone have any decently priced switches and extension cord recommendations?

I decided to get a 40A SSR. Auberins suggests I should get a heat sink, so I guess I will do that.

 

Just buy your switches from Radio Shack if you're on a time crunch. If not, Mouser.com or Amazon.com has great prices. Obviously, Amazon can sometimes be a little difficult to navigate.

For your extension cord, unlike me who has access to reels and reels of 14AWG color-coded power wires and just about every kind of plug imaginable at work, you may try Menards since their prices are usually better than HD or Lowes.

 

Maybe, I live in Portland OR., they are right by the airport.

 

Actually Auberins is where i got all my stuff they are fairly reasonable, 40A is a bit much, I went with their 1/32 PID and a 25A SSR and heat sink and the 4" thermocouple.

 

Alright so 25A SSR and a Heat Sink seems to work for Joey and some others on a typical 120v 15 amp circuit.

I'll do that then. I'll research the switches on Auberins and on Amazon.

 

So, ive see the wort in and out shown comming in on the Element side on the RIMS for dummies, and on an another comming in on the Thermocouple end, I think the Thermocouple end is better that way it reads first. Any insight on this would be appreciated.

 

The correct configuration is to have the wort run past the heating element first and then past the thermocouple. This way the SSR will keep the element from scalding the wort. Otherwise, the heating element could be scorching the wort and the PID wouldn't know it until the temp of the main mash started rising. An SSR is able to make quick enough adjustments to keep the temp going through the tube at the desired temp.

 

Thanks, makes sense.

 

Thanks for all the info from everyone who has posted. I have one question though. What gauge wire is recommended for inside the control box between the ssr and pid etc. thanks again.

 

Easy answer: 14AWG, but it all depends on your element. A typical 1500W 120V element is pulling 12.5 Amps or 15.6 Amps with a 25% safety factor. From the trusty wire size calculator, we can see that a minimum of 14AWG wire will allow us to safely convey almost 16 Amps. I checked it against Ugly's and also another calculator. There are also tons of wire size charts all over the internet.

 

Thanks for the response. You're the best.

 

Anybody have a solution for an issue I came up with today while water testing? How do I get the left over water (wort when I brew with it) out of the tube with both of the inputs facing up? Should I take it apart and flip one of the T's the other way so it'll drain out? Or is there an easier way

 

You definitely need to have one 'T" facing up and the other facing down.

It is also a good idea to use the down facing fitting as your input side so that it fills without trapping air in the RIMS. (of course with the out side vented to air when yo fill it.)

 

Your best bet is to honestly flip the outlet 90° and also mount your pump with its outlet facing down and have it run right into your RIMS tube, which should be mounted lower. Another alternative, and tons of people do it, is to mount your RIMS vertically with the outlet at the bottom and still have inlet and outlet 180 from each other.

Edit: Like P-J said, you need to avoid dry-firing your element. You can also just run your pump with element off for a minute or two and hold your outlet tubing in your mash tun or a pitcher until all air bubbles are out of it and then hook it up as normal and fire up your RIMS.

 

On my test run today I didn't turn the element on till I had all the bubbles out so that dry firing wasn't an issue. Could I just turn the output 90° then and be good to go? Everything worked very well during the test

 

I say go for it. Also mount the tube so it has a slight downhill slope towards the outlet. Let's say, maybe 10 degrees or so. It's honestly what works best for you. Us engineers can beat a horse to death in the details of a design, but proof is in the pudding, as they say.

 

Design it so it has a dump valve...

 

For those of you looking for a cheap economical Triclamp Cross to do a dump valve.

http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Crosses-TriClamp_1_1_2_Cross_SS304.html

It seems the SS threaded NPT guys have reclaimed the RIMS tube thread.

 

I just ordered my heating element and the RTD.

I am looking at switches for my rig. I am looking at these, but I am not sure if I need the 1 NO 1 NC version or the 2 NC version. With everything else running, will the LEDs use up too much power on a 120v system?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=303

 

I thought about it but couldn't find a 1 1/2" cross piece (not that I looked very hard). I just saw a design that I like better. Put the output and temp probe inline with each other meaning I'll rotate the right side so the temp probe is on top and the output is on the bottom. And then angle it towards the output. Should work well I think... Now to just get back up to my dads shop to get the big pipe wrench lol

 

If you put the output pointed down, where will the air bubbles go? I'd suggest having the output pointing up, just like on a pump, to keep the bubbles out of the RIMS tube and potentially causing part of your element to be exposed.

 

I am on my way to my new RIMS! Super stoked

 

Here the tube is

 

Lemme guess that Rims is "two feet" long?

 

Where is that one from?

 

Where does the Thermocouple go? If in the end it will need to be at least 6" long by the look of it to be able to get into the flow path. Just wondering because mine had to be 4" in to the flow path to read properly.

 

The LED's will not take up any noticable power. I was going to purchase those same switches but just went with radio shack toggles.

 

That's a nice rig! So, do I need the 1 NO 1 NC version or the 2 NC version of the switches?

I got my heater element over the weekend. Even though I saw the picture online, it seems smaller than what I was expecting. Still no rims tube. I'll have to call glacier again.

 

Not sure on that question, I would email Auberins and ask them, they were very prompt at getting back to me. As for that RIMS tube I would be tempted to cancel that order and go with Stout tanks RIMS tube. Crapy pic but you get the idea.

 

Just got off the phone with them. The shipment with the RIMS tubes was shared with another supplier. Somehow bugs grew in the container and they had to send everything back. I am looking at 3-4 weeks before they ship the item.

I told them I would call back to cancel if I find an alternative. Stout tanks comes out to $176 after shipping. I would have to replace the hose barbs to fit my system.

 

What size are your hose barbs? They may be able to accomodate. Call or Email John at Stout Tanks he may be able to help you. Good luck

 

I misspoke. I'm putting in some quick disconnects, so I won't be using hose barbs.

I'm just going to wait the month. I can save up money for the electronics and some brewing ingredients.

 

Good luck look foward to seeing and hearing how it comes out.
Heading to Stout Tanks tomorrow for more valves and adapters.
Mo money Mo money, has to end somewhere.

 

So I finished wireing the Control box last night and will be testing the wiring tonight, I decided to control the heating element for the RIMS seperatly that way there will better chance of not running the element dry, I will start the pump and fill the tube then fire the element when that is achieved.

 

That sir, is some messy wiring. Kudos though, it looks great otherwise. Besides who cares about what's behin your great looking front panel. I like that you are operating the pump separately, but just be aware that you may want to insulate your rims with something to avoid the heat loss inherent in constant recirc. It won't matter as much in terms of your mash, but it'll certainly make your SSR turn on/off more often and they do eventually burn out.