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RIMS Element question - Distance and Low vs Ultra Low Density

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by lgxg, Dec 29, 2013.

 

  1. #1
    lgxg

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 29, 2013
    Here is my setup-

    operating on 120v, PID controlled RIMS
    pre-owned BobbyM/Brewhardware.com pre-triclover setup
    4inch rtd

    previous owner had a short 1500W ultra low density element - it's rusted a bit

    i was thinking of putting in a 4500W LOW (instead of ultra low) density element. this will run at 120 - for a small amp. this one is quite a bit longer - 10 inches instead of 4.5 on the old one. this would be slower ramp up time, but would give me a little more room when operating on a 15 amp circuit.

    Some of my thoughts about using this different element was based on what I read in this thread:
    http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/electric-heating-element-rust-prevention-172928/index5.html

    See post 46 and 48

    that the camco LOW density elements have a different coating that may be more rust resistant.

    when i stick in a tape measure down the element side of the pipe, there's 14 inches before i hit the RTD.

    Would it be ok to have a 4 inch gap between element and RTD vs the ~9 inch gap with the old element?

    Thanks for the help!

    tube.JPG

    elements.JPG
     
  2. #2
    ChuckO

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 29, 2013
    I have approximately 1" between the end of the element and the probe and have no problems. Flow through the tube is not laminar, so there is plenty of mixing to make the flow over the probe representative of the entire wort flow. Personally, I would remove the 1" - 1 1/2" reducing bushing and fit it to the element, coat the end of the element and the exposed 1" ID threads on the bushing with silicone and then put the bushing back in the RIMS tube. That will help reduce the rusting on the element base. Mine has been that way for a couple of years now and shows no signs of rust. It does require that any disassembly of the element be by removing the bushing from the tube rather than the element from the bushing.
     
  3. #3
    lgxg

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Dec 29, 2013
    Thanks for the reply. That makes sense.

    Do you use normal home depot bath kitchen silicon?
     
  4. #4
    ChuckO

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Dec 30, 2013
    No, most of that type of silicon has an anti-fungal in it. I use some designed for repairing aquariums, once it has cured there is no problem. There are NSF listed food safe silicons, but I can't find them around here.
     
  5. #5
    Loodachris

    12th man loud and proud!

    Posted Dec 31, 2013
    This is the silicone I bought and it seems to work out just fine food grade and all. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281059384089?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 I built a spot on my brew stand so my rims tube can sit in vertical and when i'm done using and rinsing it I just lay it on it's side and the electrical enclosure box on the end keeps it at an angle so the water never sits on the element end and has yet to rust. Never thought about using the silicone at the end of the element.
     
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