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Relay question

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by flatulentfox, Jan 30, 2012.

 

  1. #1
    flatulentfox

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 30, 2012
    I am in the process of building a full electric RIMS system. I plan on using a HWD 4500W or 5500W 220V element in the RIMS tube. I am going to use it at 220V to heat strike water or possibly other uses where I am just heating water (sous vide cooking?). I want to switch it to 110V and use it as a ULWD element whenever wort is involved. I plan on using a low voltage toggle switch in my control panel to switch a double throw relay to switch one leg of the element between line and neutral, giving me either 220V or 110V.

    My question (or request) is: help me find a suitable relay. Preferably I would want a 12VDC coil, with contacts rated for at least 30A at 220V. I could use 110V for the coil if i had to.

    Do you think either of these would work?

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00316W4QI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GBS02M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



    Also, any input on using a 5500W HWD 220V element at 110V? This will be a keggle system capable of 5-10 gallon batches.


    Thanks
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2018
  2. #2
    yjfun

    Well-Known Member

  3. #3
    PleasantValleyHops

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    Just an fyi. I would take that part number and call around. Grainger around my way is always the most expensive place. I was going to order a light from them and came to find out it was $175 more than rexel down the road from me. And the stores r 15 miles apart!
     
  4. #4
    yjfun

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    Most definitely call around. Any of your local electrical supply houses should stock this relay you just can't look things up on their web sites so I use grainger for that.
     
  5. #5
    flatulentfox

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    Awesome. Thanks. I work right across from a Grainger, so even if it is more expensive, the convenience usually pays off. I can walk over at some point during the day (which I do for work often enough anyways...).
     
  6. #6
    PleasantValleyHops

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    My bad
     
  7. #7
    yjfun

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    How would he be requiring 45 amps? 5500w element at 120 volts is 11.5 amps and 1375 watts.
     
  8. #8
    PleasantValleyHops

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    Brain fart, i work too much my bad
     
  9. #9
    yjfun

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    We all have them sooner or later.:D
     
  10. #10
    pvtschultz

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    Do you plan on controlling the strength of your boil by simply switching between 5,500W (220VAC) and 1,375W (120VAC)? I'm affraid that you won't get your desired results this way; you'll have too strong of a boil at 5500W and a minimal boil at 1375W. I would stick to 220V for boil and adjust the strength using a SSR and PWM combination. Both of them can be had for ~$40 with some minor soldering.
     
  11. #11
    flatulentfox

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 31, 2012
    Yes, I will have a PWM to control the boil. The panel will have two PIDS and a PWM circuit with a knob to control from 0-100%. There will be three 40a SSRs. The middle control circuit will be switchable between the dedicated PWM circuit and the PID. There will be two switchable 20a SSRs for pump control.

    I plan on using the system at first as a two vessel recirculating RIMs system. I will fill mash tun with strike water and boil kettle with "sparge" water. Then recirculate the mash tun through the RIMs tube at 240V to quickly reach strike temp. Then switch the RIMs tube to 120V to avoid scorching. During mash heat sparge water in boil kettle, then "sparge" and boil.

    The control panel will have the ability to control a traditional single tier three vessel should I ever want to, or something as simple as BIAB. It will be built into a Pelican case so the system will be semi portable. I have most of the parts and plan on beginning the build soon. I will start a build thread eventually.
     
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