Relax, don't worry, my a** | HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk by donating:

  1. Dismiss Notice
  2. We have a new forum and it needs your help! Homebrewing Deals is a forum to post whatever deals and specials you find that other homebrewers might value! Includes coupon layering, Craigslist finds, eBay finds, Amazon specials, etc.
    Dismiss Notice

Relax, don't worry, my a**

Discussion in 'All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing' started by englishale, Jan 3, 2009.

 

  1. #1
    englishale

    Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    Brewed my first all grain today. Couldn't get my sparge going. I made the Flyguy MLT with braided hose over notched plastic tubing. After trying to drain the wort for 1.5 hrs, I had to empty the MLT into a separate container, remove the plastic tube and used plastic ties to clamp to the nipples. It's now flowing nicely. But my wort was sitting in the mash for 2+ hrs. Oh well.
     
  2. #2
    Bernie Brewer

    Grouchy Old Fart

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    It'll still be the best beer you ever brewed. Promise.
     
    DeadAirJeff likes this.
  3. #3
    bradsul

    Flyfisherman/brewer  

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    +1 My first couple runs with the braid didn't go very well either. And 2 hours in the mash isn't a big deal, don't worry!
     
  4. #4
    chemist308

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    Most of my mashes are 90 minutes
     
  5. #5
    BeerPressure

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    how many times do i have to say: REMOVE THE GOD DAMN RUBBER HOSE. just use the stainless braid and everything will work fine
     
  6. #6
    rod

    beer -just brew it

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    i use notched copper tubing inside my braided hose, never had a stuck sparge(couple of real slow ones) and i grind fairly fine with a lot of flour.
     
  7. #7
    englishale

    Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    Thanks BeerPressure. Could have used you 5 hrs ago.
    All is going well now. Boiling away.:eek:
     
  8. #8
    BeerPressure

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    I'm sorry for being curt, but it seems i see stuck sparge posting when people keep the rubber hose inside. I use a stainless steel braid inside a coleman xtreme cooler and it works flawlessly. Just the braid.
     
  9. #9
    zac

    Thread Killer  

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    Me & BeerPressure have the same set up, Braid & Coleman.

    I've never had a stuck sparge except with a pumpkin beer, with pumpkins in the mash.
     
  10. #10
    niquejim

    Burrowing Owl Brewery  

    Posted Jan 3, 2009
    RDWHAHB;):D


    someone had to do it
     
  11. #11
    david_42

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2009
    The only impact of the longer mash will be a slightly more fermentable wort and you won't even see that if you didn't maintain the mash above 150F.
     
  12. #12
    FlyGuy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2009
    The tubing insert idea works very well, but you have to be very careful about the type of tubing you use. I am not sure about the OP's situation, but a few people have contacted me with their problems, and in every case it was because they used the wrong tubing. So, I have updated my MLT build thread with a warning about using only high temp, vinyl tubing. One should never use other tubing, such as plain vinyl tubing or rubber tubing, because it becomes too pliable with the heat of the mash and collapses under its own weight, causing a stuck sparge. (An alternative used by some has been to re-insert the original hose from the braided line, after perforating it, and that also works well.)

    Regardless, if you can clamp down the braid with quality SS clamps, it is probably best to just do that. The only reason I used tubing inside the braid of my MLT was because I couldn't find hose clamps that were all stainless steel, and they were corroding in my mash. Yuck.

    Best of luck to the OP on the next brew! :mug:
     
  13. #13
    farmbrewernw

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2009
    I used to have really slow draining of my mash until I cut larger notches in the plastic hose, some of my larger brews I would have been worried that the braid would have collapsed if I didn't have the plastic tube supporting the braid.
     
  14. #14
    Bobby_M

    Vendor and Brewer  

    Posted Jan 4, 2009
    I think the best compromise between retention of open area and support for those afraid of collapse is to use a coil inside either made by wrapping stainless or copper wire around a rod or by elongating a stainless spring.
     
  15. #15
    FlyGuy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2009
    I tend to agree. I have also thought of using a slotted copper pipe. But I have yet to have my braid collapse (with and without the tubing), so I doubt I will ever bother.

    Personally, I think the tubing is unnecessary as any sort of 'support' for a braid. I am not sure where this conception arose (I hope I didn't contribute to the idea).
     
  16. #16
    Bobby_M

    Vendor and Brewer  

    Posted Jan 4, 2009
    I have witnessed a brewer crush the heck out of the braid in a 5 gallon batch but he was using a very large mash paddle and was stirring as if he wasn't aware the braid was in there. Other than that one time, I've never seen damage.
     
  17. #17
    BeerPressure

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2009
    i crimped the open end and used a zip tie to fasten it to the brass nipple fixture
     
  18. #18
    Skins_Brew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2009
    I have the rectangular cooler and I accidently tossed my long washing machine braid and all I had was a few toilet braids. Well, they are not that long so I cut them, pulled the hose out and then cut a maybe an inch section of hose. I used the hose to couple the braids together and secured with zipties. Just a FYI if anyone is in a pinch.
     
  19. #19
    niquejim

    Burrowing Owl Brewery  

    Posted Jan 5, 2009
    With a braided hose there is really no difference betwenn 10" and 2", at least according to Denny Conn (dennybrew)
     
  20. #20
    steelerguy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 5, 2009
    First, I agree that there is absolutely no need to leave any kind of tubing inside the stainless steel mesh. When you fill the MLT with hot water the metal is going to offer more support than plastic tubling. Although the stainless mesh may collapse some, it is metal, it is not going to completely collapse.

    Second, to the person who said that 10" and 2" of stainless mesh is the same...I agree. I have noticed that is seems just about all the wort drains right at the end connected to the drain hole. Not only will this part not collapse because it is connected to round rigid tube, but you can only drain so fast and don't need much length to do it. Now I don't have a camera in there to verify this, but looking at where the husks really stick...it is right at the end.

    I have used about 8 inches of stainless tube in my MLT and even with a pumpkin ale recipe with pumpkin in the mash it didn't clog. It took about awhile to do the initial drain and 2 sparges but it worked without getting clogged. On another note, I would at least take a little care when stirring since the tube will move around, don't beat the crap out of it or make it disconnect from the drain hole. One more thing...remove the inner tubing! :)
     
  21. #21
    englishale

    Member

    Posted Jan 5, 2009
    Well, everything seemed to work out fine. I barely missed my estimated OG. Effeciency was good at 78%.

    However, my new round 10 gal rubbermaid cooler didn't survive. After I first made the MLT, I tested it with 160 degree F water. It held up fine but one side warped. After reading about others having this issue, I figured no problem. But after my brew session this weekend, I noticed the warp had some cracking on the ridge. I was thinking of trying to fix or fill the cracks with a plastic weld material. Any suggestions?

    Rich
     
  22. #22
    wildwest450

    Banned

    Posted Jan 5, 2009
    Cpvc and copper manifold > stainless braid. Impossible to crush, unless your mashing an elephant.:D
     
  23. #23
    imaguitargod

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 5, 2009
    Can't concentrate on reading forum....avatar....too distracting....
     
  24. #24
    Hops

    Active Member

    Posted Jan 5, 2009


    Exactly how do you mash an elephant? First, you get your elephant...

    :rockin:
     
  25. #25
    Denny

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Jan 5, 2009
    I use nothing inside my braid, grind very fine, and have never had a stuck runoff in over 335 batches. People over complicate things....
     
  26. #26
    IrregularPulse

    Hobby Collector  

    Posted Jan 5, 2009
    removed my inner tubing as well afer a stuck sparge. Then crimped the end and zip tied the other end to the nipple.
     
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page

Group Builder