Rebuilding My Brutus Hybrid Into a Kal Clone

John... Have you kept track of the expenses for this setup? If so, what kind of investment have you made to get where you are?

I get its been 5+ years in the making and like you said a while back, this hobby can get crazy when you think about the money... That's why you shouldn't... But I'm curious!

 

Ok if your asking them I'm telling.... Keep in mind that even though I didn't finish wiring my original control box, I still had about $1,200.00 into just that box. I even had it powder coated. The Sabco kegs custom made the way I wanted them with the larger tri clover end caps were not cheap either. Nothing in this build was cheap come to think of it. The tri clover stuff really adds up the most though. I have never added it all up (I do have a computer file with all the orders and receipts though), but I would have to say for every single thing start to finish it has to be 8 grand. Probably more like ten though if I sat down and added it all up. That does include my new 2 tap kegerator, new upright freezer, and conical fermentor. It's crazy I know, but it's my hobby right!

John

 

I kind of figured it would be up there! My setup is very piece-meal right now... I'm making investments in improving individual parts of it, which is kind of a short-sighted approach. I look at this thread and what you've built and love the vision and forethought put into what you wanted the end result to be.

 

Thanks, you will get there. Nothing wrong with a little at a time. Nothing wrong with simple rigs or systems either. Heck I started on the stove with extract and evolved from there. Got pretty darn good at it too, those simpler systems taught me a lot. The cooler mash tun and propane burner for boiling makes great beer also, and I have seen some really skilled people make awesome beer with that type of system.

I had already been brewing since 2002. I knew I really loved the hobby and I had a passion for the whole brewing process. I just didn't brew like this. For me it was totally worth waiting a few years, then going for it and upgrading even though it took a long time. What I have now is an awesome system that is easy to use. I have great control where I need it the most, and it is very fun to use. The brew days are a total blast! To top it off my beers really taste fantastic and my friends, family and neighbors are always either coming over to have some of my home brew, or asking me what I am brewing next. I try to brew once a month and I'm brewing batch number 6 on my new rig tomorrow! Go for it brother, just expand here and there as your budget allows. Like the song goes, "Next thing you know Ole Jed's a millionaire!!"

John

 

Love it!

 

Bring this back to the front.

I've got some reading to do here!!! Super nice!!

 

Thanks man, I'm having a blast brewing on it!

John

 

I bet. Like I mentioned in my post in the other thread. I'm on my first electric batch and, wow. I'm impressed with its speed. For sure. It seems I get more steam in the garage but I think that might be because it's not anywhere near as hot. Maybe I should dedicate a spot to the system???
I've gotta get used to the kettle being tethered by the cord. Though the 1 1/2" tri clover fitting makes it easier to clean. I'm thinking about CIP. Maybe....

You should know, I'm gonna rip off your burner move. Being able to still use them for anything (crab boil, power outage, deep frying, etc) is genius.

 

I love the 1 1/2 inch tri clover fittings for the electric element. It's so easy to take out the element in the boil kettle after every brew and clean it, and no cord dragging behind the kettle. Easier to clean the element and kettle separately. With your mad welding skills you could weld a tri clover fitting up in no time! As far as the burner move go for it, I think it's great. Have everyone over for a huge crab boil and use those gas burners! I also thought the same thing about if the power ever went out for a long time like in a hurricane situation here in Florida. If that ever happened at least I could use the stand to cook on it and we could eat!

John

 

I went with the housing from brewers hardware.
Yours is the one from still dragon right?

 

Wow nice job! Yes I have the StillDragon version. That one looks very solid!

John

 

I've been toying with the idea of a thread. Document my journey into electric brewing and the rebuild process.

I've got a lllllloooonnnnngggg way to go to catch up to you!!!
What's your favorite method of cleaning the elements? I was worried I'd get water where I don't want it. I also had some whiteish stuff on the element when I took it out of the kettle. Proteins maybe??

 

You should definitely make a thread. I use a sponge and you can spread apart the element enough to get the sponge inbetween the top and bottom folded back portion of the element. I also use about an 8 inch piece of weed wacking string and make it into a U. Run the end through the element and grab the other side and hold each end, one end in each hand and move the string back and forth. It will remove the gunk no problem. The white stuff is very common and you will get it on the element every time. Even if you clean it all off a small film of it may come back. It will flake off when it is dry. This is normal.

John

 

Good tip on the weed wacker string. I'll have to give that try. Thank you.
I used a brush and it worked pretty good. I still have some white stuff left on the element but not much.

 

Do you still have the ss in line pump heads? Will they fit the 315 pump?

 

Yes, they will fit no problem.

 

those tri-clover connections are so nice. i went with 2" on mine, even easier to snake the ripple element in/out. on my hlt, i take it out so i can move the kettle and dumpe the last little bit of water. then i set the kettle on the floor to dry with a towel. similar for the boil kettle. i use a plate chiller and clean it out after the brew day with recirculated pbw and actually set the boil element in the pbw to clean that as well (just the element portion, not all the wiring parts).

 

Want to sell one?

 

Pm me. It's all about giving back in this hobby and I have met some really good people here over the years. Tell you what, you pay the shipping and I'll send you one!

John

 

Pm sent
Wow!!! That's extremely generous of you.

 

Digging the HB love, man. Digging it!

 

You know I just caught this. I made a mistake on a prior post (post # 169). I actually do have the 2 inch tri- clover connections for my ripple elements on my HLT and Boil kettles and NOT the 1 1/2 inch like I posted. You can see in post # 3 that 2 inch holes were made for the 2 inch tri- clover ferrules. I agree the 2 inch opening is a lot easier to snake the element in and out of the kettles.

John

 

I had to come to your build thread, this is awesome!

 

Thanks Frodus, I still love this rig. I brew once a month on her and it's the best!

John

 

Bringing up an old post, but what is the headache that occurs when not using the center inlet pump?

 

I believe the side inlet pumps are harder to prime.

 

Correct. Side inlet can be considerably harder to prime, which is why my design uses center inlet and therefore doesn't require bleeder valves or similar. Complete details in my pump build article: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/pumps

Kal

 

What's the deciding factor (if using you're electric panel) when choosing 125 or 250VAC?

 

Location. If you live in a country where both 120V and 240V are available, I'd suggest going with a panel that supports those two as 120V pumps are easier to find in places like North America. Live in a country that only has 240V (no 120V) then you're forced to use a 240V panel and pumps.

All that said, if you think you may be moving from North America to (say) Europe where 120v isn't available, you can go with a 240V panel and use it in North America as long as you can get 240V pumps too. Completely up to you. At the end of the day there's no functional difference.

Note: When I say 120V it can vary from 100-125V or so, and when I say 240V it can vary from as low as 200V to as high as 250V.

Kal

 

So I committed one of my pet peeves and used you're instead of your*. I meant if I'm using one of your panels (such as this Op is doing), are both plugs capable of being plugged into that panel, Kal?

 

Hi awoitte, for me it was night and day. When I used the non center inlet pump I had very low flow into the mash tun. It was to the point where it was almost as bad as a stuck mash. I did have some flow but it was barely a trickle. When I switched to the center inlet pump heads like Kal recommends I could run the pump to the mash tun full bore and the temp was easily kept at the mash temp I needed. No hassle and smooth sailing. I have a bleeder valve on both pumps and I used them for both type of pump heads and the problem was not getting them primed. It was that the non center inlet pump head could not handle moving the fluid to where it needed to be and the center inlet head just performed flawlessly. Kal has certain things he recommends in his build for a reason, it just flat out works! Hope this helps.


John

 

We've all done that!

Gotcha! Sorry, no.

The pump receptacles in my 120/240V design supply 120V to the pumps since they're meant only to be used with 120V pumps. The receptacles are (usually) rated to 125V only and 120V is supplied. We use L5-15 (125V/15A) receptacles on this panel.

The pump receptacles in my 240V only design supply 240V to the pumps since they're meant only to be used with 240V pumps. The receptacles are different ase they need to support 240V (they are usually rated to 250V). We use L6-15 (250V/15A) receptacles on this panel.

The receptacles can't know what pump you're using (120V vs 240V) so they needs to be wired correctly in the first place to supply the proper voltage to the pumps you have.

That said, I'm confused and guessing a bit why you're asking all this. If you want to take this offline email me at [email protected] and we can discuss and not distract from this thread. Let me know why you're asking and I can help. Cheers!

Kal