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Quick Disconnect Advice

Discussion in 'Equipment/Sanitation' started by BigDog007, Feb 24, 2015.

 

  1. #1
    BigDog007

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 24, 2015
    I'm in the market for some quick disconnects for my brewing system, I only use one 15g SS Kettle using BIAB method.

    I will be using a chugger pump to recirculate the wort back into the kettle during BIAB mash.

    I also have a plate chiller now that I will be using.

    My questions:

    -Is going SS worth the cost versus brass quick disconnects?
    -Why?

    -Should I always put the females on the hoses and males directly connect to the pump and kettle? Is this standard?

    Any recommendations?

    Thanks,

    RP
     
    Doublej0305 likes this.
  2. #2
    ImNoExpert

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Feb 24, 2015
    The stainless steel connects that I use are made to handle the high heat/food applications that I'm using them for. This means they will not react with my wort or cleaners and the silicone gaskets can handle the temperatures without breaking down or failing.

    I do use some brass disconnects but only for hose water on my chiller/filling my HLT.

    I think most put the female on the hoses because the hoses get moved and bumped around. If the metal dents, it won't affect the sealing action of the hose like it would if the tip of the male end gets dented or scratched. This is why I did it that way.

    I went with stainless steel camlocks because it is a good balance between the advantages of stainless steel (as listed above) and cost. Other stainless steel QDs cost more.
     
  3. #3
    ImNoExpert

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Feb 24, 2015
  4. #4
    LandoLincoln

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 24, 2015
    I also recommend going with the SS camlocks instead of the other QD's. Brewhardware.com sells some that do not restrict the 1/2" flow like the other QD's do.

    Yes, it's pretty standard to have the females on the hoses and males on the vessels.
     
  5. #5
    BigDog007

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 25, 2015
    Thanks for the advice guys, I'll check out the camlocks.

    RP
     
  6. #6
    CA_Mouse

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Feb 25, 2015
    I just ordered some of these myself and can't wait to get them on my equipment. I tried the high temp plastic ones, while they were good to learn with, they easily strip the lock connections. BrewHardware's prices couldn't be beat and shipping was reasonable.
     
  7. #7
    kombat

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 25, 2015
    I use these. They work great.
     
  8. #8
    Auger

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Feb 25, 2015
    Another vote here for the brewhardware.com camlocks. They used to have a kit listed called "add-a-pump" which I picked up, it came with a chugger pump of your choosing, plus all the hardware for the pump and tubing. Then I just had to outfit my keggles as needed. I've only brewed with it once, but man what a difference. The only thing I don't like is that even with all the valves closed, I always get a little leakage when disconnecting/moving hoses, but I don't know that there's any practical way around that. I just hold a plastic paint cup under when I take them apart and keep a hand towel handy.

    edit - just saw you are doing BIAB so the connect/disconnect leakage is probably not applicable.
     
  9. #9
    AnOldUR

    fer-men-TAY-shuhn  

    Posted Feb 25, 2015
    I'm happy enough with my high temperature plastic CPC disconnects. Doesn't have the bling factor of stainless, but is more balanced with the quality of the rest of my medium tech system.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. #10
    LandoLincoln

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 25, 2015
    As you disconnect the camlock, angle the female camlock opening horizontally and move it a bit underneath the male camlock to catch the liquid draining so it drains into the hose. That works for me.
     
    Auger likes this.
  11. #11
    Auger

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Feb 25, 2015
    Thanks for the tip, I'll try that next session.
     
  12. #12
    JB_Brewing2

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Feb 25, 2015
  13. #13
    BargainFittings

    Vendor / Owner  

    Posted Feb 26, 2015
    The 1/2" camlocks interchange as they are pretty standard. The main difference will be the gaskets can be a bit thicker or thinner.

    I've been sent samples from multiple vendors and while the castings differ and the quality can be better or worse they all will connect together pretty well.
     
  14. #14
    ImNoExpert

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Feb 26, 2015
    Agreed that they don't have the bling of stainless. I and a lot of others sometimes get blinded by the shiny stainless. Many applications plastic works as good or better. I love my plastic speidel and Northern Brewer Bubbler fermenters.

    I'm really pleased with the stainless steel connects, though. I really feel like I bought for life. YMMV.
     
  15. #15
    actionjackson905

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 26, 2015
    Where did you get that large electric hot plate?
     
  16. #16
    AnOldUR

    fer-men-TAY-shuhn  

    Posted Feb 26, 2015
  17. #17
    eric19312

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Feb 26, 2015
    Do you also have a procedure for disconnecting from the pump to reduce dumping wort on the floor?


    BTW I am using the Brewhardware camlocks with the chugger pump and they are a big improvement over the 1/2 hose barbs I was previously using in terms of eliminating restrictions in lines that I want to be high flow.
     
  18. #18
    BargainFittings

    Vendor / Owner  

    Posted Feb 26, 2015
    I have seen people use a shallow stainless steel "dog" bowl as their catch basin under the pump to catch runoff. Of course if your have a brew dog that might be an issue.
     
  19. #19
    Just-a-sip

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 26, 2015
    I myself have found that of you disconnect from the kettle and bring the end down to the level of the pump but still keeping the end up then disconnect from the pump that you will keep all the liquid in the hose. There should be enough air to create a head space in the hose to allow for movement. My pump is located directly below my kettle about 7 inches from the floor so I have to be careful and it works. Not saying I don't mess up from time to time but all in all it works.
     
  20. #20
    actionjackson905

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 26, 2015
  21. #21
    BigDog007

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 27, 2015
    I bought all the fittings I need at bargainfittings.com. Got twice as many as I could have by going with camlocks. Also picked up some ball valves, weldless bulkhead, whirlpool tube with elbow compression fitting and some other items. Bought them last night and they shipped this morning. So far very impressed with the quick turnaround.

    Can't wait to try them out, gotta buy some more tubing this weekend.
     
  22. #22
    tmendick

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Feb 27, 2015
    It really depends, do you have a specific pot in mind?
     
  23. #23
    LandoLincoln

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 27, 2015
    I have a set of darkroom print developing trays that I use to catch drips. You could probably find some on ebay for cheap since hardly anyone uses film cameras anymore.
     
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