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Questions for the experts

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by dburgette, May 5, 2012.

 

  1. #1
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 5, 2012
    Since I am in the process of gathering all the pieces for going electric I am in need of some expertise. I will first say that electricity is not a strong suit and have read very carefully and don't want to cut corners.

    Now to my first of many questions:

    Background info: there is a range 240 just above where I want to build my brewery in the basement. We use a gas range so that could easily be rerouted. I'm assuming that is already gcfi at the breaker panel or I'm I off in thinking this? If its three prong what will I need as an electrical cord from the control panel? Basically I am thinking a yay or nay on the spa panel.
     
  2. #2
    P-J

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted May 5, 2012
    Sounds like you have a layout that could easily work for you.
    The outlet you describe would not have a GFCI breaker.

    Please tell us some more. Pictures of what you are dealing with would be great. (The outlet - the mains breaker feeding it and whatever else that would help us help you.

    P-J.
     
  3. #3
    jnaustin114

    Member

    Posted May 5, 2012
    There is most likely not a GFI at your breaker panel. You are going to want to get the spa panel.
     
  4. #4
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 5, 2012
    image-1973530646.jpg

    Here is the inside of the 3 prong. I would only have to drop this directly below the floor which is where the panel is. Is this 10/2 wire?
     
  5. #5
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 5, 2012
    image-1361605820.jpg

    Top breaker is the range switch.
     
  6. #6
    P-J

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted May 5, 2012
    The wire is most problably sized for a 50A feed. Your wiring and outlet is pre 1995 code. No problem. I'm not able to see the breaker rating for the breaker you reference. What is the amp rating of it? I'm hopeing 50A.

    P-J

    PS: This is a nice adeventure for me... Let's go!
     
  7. #7
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 5, 2012
    I appreciate the expert advice. I have enjoyed reading your posts in the past so I appreciate you chiming in.

    You're spot on with the code...our house was built in 87. It has 40 stamped on the range breaker.
     
  8. #8
    P-J

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted May 5, 2012
    Excellent...

    Now tell me some more about you plan for your brewery rig. With a 3 wire power delivery to your brew area, you will definately need to use a slightly different power setup for your brewery control panel. You will need to incorporate the use of a spa panel. (It is a lot cheaper than rewiring and the cost of a GFCI breaker for your mains panel.) No problem.

    Please tell me more about your brewery controller ideas.

    P-J
     
  9. #9
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 5, 2012
    I have collected parts to do basically a kal electric brewery build. 3 vessel, two pid, one or two pump brewery. I have the large enclosure contol box that I would hook up to the spa panel. I would vent it with a hood and about 1 foot of duct. All the conditions are in my favor, but I need to figure out the small steps to get there.
     
  10. #10
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 5, 2012
    Oh, I would only use one of my 5500 watt elements at any one time. I am estimating about 23amps to run the element.
     
  11. #11
    P-J

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted May 5, 2012
    If you are doing a Kal's Electric brewery build, it is all outlined step by step on his site TheElectricBrewery.com

    For the Spa Panel setup, it needs to be wired this way.

    [​IMG]

    Wishing you success.
     
  12. #12
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 21, 2012
    So I bought the spa panel today and looking to wire it up soon. PJ's diagram is pretty straight forward, but just for safe measures I have a few questions. Bare with the elementary questions please.

    (Power input) The diagram's yellow in is going to be my middle wire(ground/neutral) in the picture. The red and black are the outside two for the hots. Is this correct so far?

    I bought a small amount of 10 gauge wiring for the inside. Appropriate? I believe it is just wanting some confirmation.
     
  13. #13
    stlbeer

    Senior Member  

    Posted May 21, 2012
    I just had one of these installed. So it's recent...

    Concerning power in only...
    Yes, the yellow is your power in from your main panel. I brought mine in from the back, but you can bring it in from the bottom by punching out the knock-out. Don't forget to get a retainer for the wire. The connector next to it is to bond the neutral to the ground bar on the right. You can remove the rod that's in the box as it is only needed on a main panel (I'm told). Then all you have is Leg 1 and Leg 2 (L1 & L2).
     
  14. #14
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 22, 2012
    I guess I wasn't very clear. Take a look at the picture of my pre-1995 wiring power source in the picture. I am not sure which of my wires go where when you are looking at my specific scenario when talking about the power into the spa panel.
     
  15. #15
    P-J

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted May 22, 2012
    Yes, that is correct.

    The power input into the Spa Panel enters on the left side of the panel as shown in the image I posted. The Neutral from your picture of the outlet is the bare wire in the center. The 240V conductors (2 - 120V phases) are the 2 black insulated wires.

    On the input to the Spa Panel The Neutral is shown as a yellow wire and the 240V is shown as blue and red. Please note the Neutral connection on the load side of the GFCI breaker. The Neutral load side comes from the breaker not from the input side.

    Hope this helps.

    P-J
     
  16. #16
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 22, 2012
    Thank you for talking down to me ...and I mean that as a compliment. It helps a lot.

    One last question for now, is 10 gauge wiring inside the panel acceptable?
     
  17. #17
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 9, 2012
    image-1394512596.jpg

    I need a little help on the RTD wiring just so I do this once.

    The way I see it from the PID controller wiring is that the white should go to #5, and the two reds should go to #6,7? Anyone?

    Hopefully the picture helps.
     
  18. #18
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 9, 2012
    image-2493523987.jpg

    Like this. By the way, I'm using auber's rtd if that makes any difference.
     
  19. #19
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 11, 2012
    Anyone? I know a few of you have the same temp reader.
     
  20. #20
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 11, 2012
    Double post deleted
     
  21. #21
    stlbeer

    Senior Member  

    Posted Jul 11, 2012
    Did you turn it on after connecting the RTD? I don't have this PID so I can't say exactly how it should go. Is this one of those Ebay Aquarium PIDs? If so, there's a separate thread around in this forum or the DIY forum. Good luck.
     
  22. #22
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 11, 2012
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/250560351944

    It's this one.
     
  23. #23
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 14, 2012
    image-1246669906.jpg

    I am in need of a wiring diagram for the alarms on my control panel. I have alarms ready for the boil pid and hlt pid. I don't have the timer like Kal and only have the buzzer/light combo without reset or separate light. any help would be great!


    I have to thank pj for earlier helping me with the spa panel wiring. You have been greatly appreciated for your expertise. I owe you a brew.
     
  24. #24
    stlbeer

    Senior Member  

    Posted Aug 14, 2012
    Which PIDs are you using? Are those SYL-2352's?
     
  25. #25
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 14, 2012
    Yes.
     
  26. #26
    dburgette

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 15, 2012
    It's fixed thanks!
     
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