Potential Ikea Electrical Enclosure?

http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/40012497/#/40012497

Product dimensions
Width: 13 3/4 "
Depth: 5 7/8 "
Height: 17 3/4 "

Width: 35 cm
Depth: 15 cm
Height: 45 cm

Depth wise another inch or two would be valuable, but might be a decent alternative. I searched far an wide and ending up settling on a small'ish plastic watertight enclosure. But given the price, I may even pick one up.

 

That's actually not half bad for a stainless enclosure...

 

I would also be concerned that 5 7/8" depth is too shallow.

I have a 12x12x8 enclosure and there is not much room between the DIN rail mounted breakers and distribution blocks and the bottom of the switches when the door is closed. Many of the 22mm switches protrude about an inch below the cover.

You could probably make it fit with careful positioning. The overall volume is larger than a 12x12x8.

 

It also doesn't conform to NEMA standards. Not sure if anyone is building their enclosures with NEMA standards in mind but I'd sure like there to be some sort of water protection.

 

I havent seen one inperson, but with gasketing and silicone sealant im sure you could easily achieve 1G or 12

 

I thought about the various NEMA standards for dust protection and water intrusion, but decided that as soon as I started punching 11 holes in the cover for switches and indicator lamps, NEMA may not apply anymore...

 

Depth is plenty as long as you position the PID to not be ontop of anything. The panel is easily big enough to keep your big power items away from the PID(s), longer switches, etc.

 

Also to note, the link i provided was to the canadian Ikea, the US version is 29.99 for the stainless model

 

These are both very good points. I might just have to look into these.

 

A PID is 4" deep, so you'll still have a 1 7/8" clearance behind it. So this could work.

 

Electrical equipment has been known to explode when it shorts out and give you a shower in molten copper and burning plastic parts. Nema rated boxes are designed to withstand this. Something you might want to keep in mind when you're going cheap on something as important as the enclosure that holds all your expensive electrical parts.

 

I do not think by defintion a NEMA enclosure carries with it any short circuit withstand rating. It has more to do with protection from external sources (weather, dust, temperature), than operator protection from internal failures

http://www.nema.org/prod/be/enclosures/upload/NEMA_Enclosure_Types.pdf

anyway, for those on a budget, I think overall this is a pretty decent alternative. Im going to take a look at it in the next few days.

 

NEC article 314.40(C)

Metal boxes over 1650 cubic centimeters (100 cubic inches in size shall be constructed so as to be of ample strength and rigidity. If of sheet steel, the metal thickness shall not be less than 1.35 mm (0.053 in.) uncoated.

There is no way that ikea makes a stainless box that is the equivalent to 18 gauge steel. That thing is going to be more like 24 or 28 gauge with a price like that. I know you are located in Canada and you don't have to follow our electrical code but you do have to follow your own and guess what, IT'S BASED ON OUR CODE. Go right ahead and buy a non listed, cheap piece of crap box and when Darwin comes knocking on your door don't be suprised.

You asked for help from those people on here that know what they're doing when it comes to electricity and then blow off their suggestions because they don't agree with you. Sounds real smart to save a few pennies and risk the lives of yourself and others.

 

That's a helluva deal... Imho NEMA is great of you want it, but I don't see it as necessary. My coffee machine isn't NEMA rated, it has water and electricity... This box would have been way nicer than the computer case I used.

Yjfun, simmer down a bit... If it's grounded and gfci protected, it's at least as safe as any kitchen appliance. I appreciate your concern, but he's not advocating running with scissors here.

 

I did notice it's says
color: stainless or white.
It does not mention it's actually made of stainless. This might just have a fake stainless cover on it? I got my enclosure from a local shop that's builds automated control boxes. It's fiberglass, waterproof and $40.

 

I use an old pelican case that I had laying around (thank you army) and sealed around all the components with silicone sealant, it has worked fine, but I also mounted the panel about 10 feet away from the kettles to minimize water exposure. If you have access to a military base just drive around and you will likely find one or two a week by the trash.

 

Wow.. I dont even know if you are worth responding to, but, just for your information, all i was doing was passing along what I thought was a good deal.

And, the Canadian comments. Are you really that ignorant? We are world leaders in Health and Safety.

 

I'm sorry you take offense to my comments but all I wrote was the truth. I have quite a few friends that are Canadian. Just because something seems like a great deal doesn't make it one. I was trying to point out the defects in your plan to use this box before you or someone else got badly hurt. I was incorrect (wrong) in stating that it's a nema classification rating that makes this box illegal to use but it does still fall under the general wiring requirements. Just because other people have gotten away with building makeshift equipment and not gotten hurt doesn't make it safe or right.

Your electrical code is also so close on it's requirements to ours that you would be wise to listen to the suggestions made by the experienced members of this forum.

The idea is to keep you safe with a homebrew in your hand not laying on the ground smoking out your ears.

Please be safe in your decisions.

 

So, the risk you are implying is that under a catrastrophic failure, the additional .02" material thickness will make the difference between someone in the hospital, and someone drinking a homebrew?

I think you may need to step back and think about what are you trying to suggest. If arc fault containment is what you think you are getting with a NEMA rated box, what about the cutouts you have just made in the front face? That will be the failure point of the enclosure.

If someone with an large budget wants to spend 600 on a box ( http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ess_Steel_-_Single_Door_Wall_Mount/SSN4161206 ), more power to them.

But please dont try to tell me that a .033 thk enclosure isnt adequate to house some relatively small 30A controls equipment. I would wonder what you would say about someone wanting to use a plastic or fibreglass enclosure.

 

If any is still reading this thread, I went and checked out the IKEA enclosure and it's no good. First of all, it's pretty flimsy steel. there is no sealing to it whatsoever, and there are actually holes in the back for wall mounting. Additionally, it's full of shelves.

 

I still don't see what's so bad about it. Hack out the shelves, seal up the holes, bam, you have a CP.

The big plusses I see are that it has a latch that holds it shut, it looks to be a nice size, and it has a hinged door. Hell, I built mine out of a desktop computer tower,

and it worked fine. Not having a hinged door was a PITA when trying to wire between the "back" and "front" of it though!

 

What's bad about it is you'd have to hack up the shelves, seal up the holes, and you'd still have a very flimsy control box. Believe me, I wanted it to work, but after seeing it in person, it was an easy decision.

 

On my phone ATM but is it all plastic on the inside can't quite tell.. I was hoping it to be fairly shelving free..

 

It's all metal on the inside.

 

is the shelving removeable? the holes on that back shouldnt be an issue.

 

No, tack welded in.

 

ah more work than its worth..
thanks for the investigation!