Please help me not electrocute myself?

LandoLincoln was kind enough to help my diagram a 120V control panel that I was planning (Thanks again, Lando!) It will power a single 2000W element and two March pumps. That's it. He diagramed the wiring in post #8 of the following thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f235/control-panel-purchase-411104/

He warned me, though, that he's not a professional and that I should have others check it out. Can anyone weigh in on whether the wiring diagrammed is safe and proper? Seriously, folks, I appreciate any feedback because I'm not down with going all "Wile E. Coyote." The wife would never let me hear the end of it!!

 

Diagram looks reasonable.

Instead of the PID on/off switch, consider using an ON/OFF switch for the panel which would disable the 120v hot to all components including PID, pumps, and SSR. This switch would have to be rated for 20 amps.

For a simple 120v element control, I have seen a few people using "sous vide" controllers from eBay in the $100 range. Probably cheaper than building a panel and you could wire a simple junction box w/ a couple switch outlets for the pumps.

Make sure you are using a GFCI outlet.

 

Good ideas. And the power receptacle will be GFCI, but if my research is correct, I won't be able to use GFCIs on the panel itself (to accept the pump plugs), is that correct?

 

If you plug the panel into a 120v GFCI outlet, any GFCIs in the panel would be unnecessary. There are mixed opinions as to whether they would just be redundant or whether they would cause nuisance trips, so definitely leave them out.

 

The sous vide setups might be good if you're not planning on expanding your electric setup. If you are, though, it would probably be best to invest in the components now and be able to use them in the future instead of starting all over again.

2352 PID: $45
25a SSR: $15
Outlets for the pumps: $8
Some bus bars: $12
Switches: $9
Small enclosure: $20
Fuses and fuse holders: $8
Outlet for the HLT: $7

Total: ~$125