Omron E5CC settings

Could someone with an Omron E5CC, or similar, post their boil kettle settings please?
I may or may not have goobered something in the settings, element was firing, then stopped.

Context:
system is 3v eHERMS, 50A 240v GFCI circuit, B2B 50A GroundedBrewing control panel, elements are 5500w ripple foldbacks from Spike, everything is 20-gallon, (3) Omron E5CC PIDs

Got the stuff all setup, was doing leak testing and PID tuning.
I started with the HLT, put 10 gallons of water in it, set SelfTuning On, switched on the HLT switch.
Switched on the recirc pump.
Waited not very long, figured it might take a while, my Grainfather takes forever to heat water, so I set the timer for 10 minutes so if I walked off I couldn't forget it was on.
When I hit the START button, the GFCI in the main breaker panel tripped. Odd? ok
Reset the breaker, control panel didn't light up. Cycled the power switch; nothing. damn.
Turned off the HLT element switch, the panel lit up.
But the MLT and HLT PIDs said ~17C, the BK PID said 48C
Alright, started over, etc. etc.
BK PID started climbing.... poopy. Took the lid off the BK, element was bright red, kettle hotter'n fresh turds.
F killed everything.
TL;DR I had the cables routed to the wrong kettle.
Was no popping sound or anything, element doesn't look scorched.

Pulled the BK cable completely, connected the HLT correctly; verified two extra times.
Started over again.
Autotune seems to have worked on HLT. pumped all the water to MLT, set the temp offset
pumped all the water over to BK.
Not really thinking clearly, I enabled SelfTuning on the BK element. It starts heating up, went from 20C to 30C which I had set it to. Then I was like derp wtf did I do that for? so I disabled SelfTuning. Element stopped heating, but the element ON panel indicated stayed lit. ok whatever.
But it wouldn't heat any more. looked at the GBT guide, it says hold the <<PF button a couple seconds until MANU lights up. done.
The set value ranges from -something up to 500. wtf? shouldn't only go from 0%-100%?
pulled out the sheet that came with the PIDs, trying to make heads|tails of that.. I may have changed something I shouldn't have trying to get it working


If someone could verify what the settings should be, and the process to get to it if it's on the Advanced menu (that's a B to get into), I'd really appreciate it.
I also have not verified that the element fried or not. Looks OK, but haven't put a multi tester on it yet.

 

swapped BK cable over to the HLT port, since I know it works fine. BK element doesn't do anything.
It's probably fried.
Would still like to get this BK PID setup right though. Input appreciated.

 

What type of elements are you using? I had ordered the same type as the Spikes and one had ended up leaking into the housing causing the breaker to trip.

 

It's the 5500w with 1.5" TC flange and the integrated twist lock prongs, I ordered them with the kettles.
One seems to work fine. I need to pull the one and take a look at it. See if maybe there's something else wrong with it. I ordered one of those Dernord brand ones that looks exactly like it from Amazon, should have it tomorrow.

 

Ah, those seem to be better then the ones I have, I ordered one twist lock as a back up incase one of them leak again..

I’m not sure how the twist lock ones work, if they’re welded to the Triclamp or threaded..

Mine was threaded in the center, had to use some liquid pipe thread to seal it back up, not sure this is the same case as yours however.

 

@Youngster this is the one I ordered from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KCJX8W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It looks exactly like the Spike one; once it's delivered, I'll compare it to the one I have, see how similar they are. Looks like there's a little nut on the outside that holds the housing to the TC flange