Not your standard Kegerator/Fermentation Chamber Side By Side Build (Photo Heavy)

Ok well I wanted to share my Kegerator Build. User Sidman's build located here:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=524849
and User: mistercamerons fridgenstien build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=289241
was my inspiration for the build. He is a great dude and helped me along with the project. I also researched for about a month on what I wanted and didn't want in the build. As you can see Sidman's build had a huge influence on my build.
I knew I wanted to fit 4 kegs, I wanted a dedicated nitrogen tap and I really wanted two separate chambers in order to not be limited on what I can brew. Here is my response to a month of research and countless hours to trying to see what I envisioned was even possible.
Here is before:


And after:


Here is the parts list with what I paid for it:
Kenmore Coldspot 106.53632300 - $125 off craigslist(It had a broken ice maker)
20lb CO2 Tank and Dual Gauge Regulator - $130 Craigslist Find
20lb Nitrogen Tank and Nitrogen Regulator - $130 Craigslist Find
3 ITC-1000 - $16 each http://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit/dp/B00OXPE8U6
4 Product Secondary Regulator - $170 http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/secondary/T1694ST_four_product_secondary_regulator.shtml
2-Way Manifold - $40 (for the nitrogen)http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/distributors/aluminum_two_way_air_distributor.shtml
Beer and Air Lines - $17 a sethttp://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/QDHOSEKIT_quick_disconnect_set.html
Air and Liquid Couplers - $16 a set http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/couplers/homebrew/ball_lock_mfl_coupler_set.shtml?bstr=1
3 1/8 Inch (3/16" Bore) Nipple Shank - $19 ea http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/faucets/shanks/SHANK3.shtml
Vent Matic Faucets - $53 ea http://www.vent-matic.com/#!shop/c1n3j
4 Inch 115v Cooling Fan - $17 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OWRMZ6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Guiness Nitro Tap - FREE! Friend Hook Up
12" Drip Tray - $34 ebay find
2 GFCI Outlets - $7 ea Harbor Freight
RJ11 Wall Plate - $3 ea Home Depot
RJ11 Plugs - $4 pack of 20 Amazon
Fiberglass Re-enforced Plastic 4' x 8' Panel - $33 Home Depot
Oil Based Paint - $13 Home Depot
1/4" Foam Insulation - $9 Home Depot
Diamond Plate and 2" Angle Iron - $50 Local Metal Supply store

NOW for the HOW TO:
I started by planning the build as much as possible and listing all the parts I was gonna need. I ordered them and assembled what ever needed to be assembled before gutting the fridge and taking out all unnecessary parts.
I took the time to examine the entire fridge inside and out to get an understanding of how my particular fridge worked and where things were. By doing this I was able to trace where wires went and where it appeared the coils from the compressor ran. I was pretty confident to a HIGH degree that the compressor coils did NOT run in the walls. So whenever I drilled into the wall I wasn't really worried that I was gonna make a 150lb paper weight. I used my compressor to blow out then entire cooling system and coils underneath the fridge. I then ripped out all the water and ice systems since I wont be needing them.
Upon examination of the electrical area where the temperature sensor is and all the wires ran that this fridge had 1 Temperature Sensor for the fridge side and the freezer knob simply controlled an air damper that open and closed to make the freezer colder. (This threw me through a loop for a week. But ill explain that in the wiring section.)
Now that the fridge was stripped down to the bare minimum and doors removed.
I prepped the surface by sanding with 150 grit. This was to just remove the gloss coating of the original paint job. Once I did a quick sanding I wiped the fridge with soap and water. I let it dry and taped all the edges I didn't want to paint. First lesson learned(USE A FOAM ROLLER WITH OIL BASED PAINT) I used a roller that put lint on the surface and it really annoys me. I put 2 coats and it looked PERFECT(besides the lint). The first coat ISNT going to cover it perfect. Don't worry the second coat really did the trick.
{KEGERATOR SIDE}
I installed the Secondary regulator which fit exactly and 2-Way Manifold simply by drilling screws into the wall and then used a hole bit large enough to run both air lines from the outside in. I drilled from the inside out. (Second Lesson: Use a drill bit all the way from the inside out then use the hole bit from the outside in. This will create a cleaner hole. I had to use a dremel to clean the edges.)
I then used the kegs to measure where I wanted to 2 Inch aluminum angle iron to support the weight of 2 kegs on a shelf. I drill 3 holes in each and used 2 1/2" 1/4" Bolts with washers on both sides of the wall and lock washers to bolt each side. I reused the wire shelf from the freezer. This is pretty much all I had to do to the inside of the freezer.


{COOLING FANS FOR FERMENTATION SIDE}
For the cooling fans I used two 4" louvered dryer vents from home depot and two 4inch 95 CFM 115v Cooling Fans from Amazon. The reason I went with 115v is because I wanted to move air faster and it just fit better. (It is a little louder operating but it doesnt bother me.)
To install them I first assembled them. On the plastic dryer vent I cut the round plastic from behind the louvers. LESSON LEARNED(Remove louvers before cutting. It made it alot easier) NOTE: Whenever I cut plastic anywhere I used a high temp heat gun to soften the plastic for a few seconds and I heat up the blade. It made cutting plastic like butter and easier.

I then marked and drill four holes to mount the fan using the supplied screws with one guard on the opposite side of the vent.
I then marked and cut the holes through the fridge wall. I used the existing hole for the air damper and the vegetable crisper as places to cut because there were some holes already there.
I used black tape I had on hand to fill the space that I cut around the fan just for a cleaner look.


I will continue the thread below this post since I am limited on pictures.

 

So for the fermentation side. I took my 6.5 Gallon Carboy and Bucket to measure the height I wanted the chamber at the bottom to fit my biggest fermentation vessel. It just so happened the fit was the same at the top chamber and the bottom. It also will fit a corny keg in the chambers if need be.
I then measured and built two shelves for the bottom chamber because of the compressor hump in the back. Now I can have two fermentation vessels in both chambers at the same time for a total of 4 fermentation vessels. I also treated all the wood I used in the fridge with thompsons water sealer. And I laminated the 3/4" plywood with the white FRP using liquid nails, this not only looked better it is now water proof. Lesson Learned(I used clamps on everything that was glued and made sure it rested with clamps overnight.

I used 3/4" plywood for the shelves and 2x2 for the legs to support the weight. Let me tell you that thing will support a grown man now. I then framed in the front of the lower chamber for the door with 1x4 pine but made sure the fermentation vessels fit with the door closed and I used a piece of scrap 3/4 plywood for the door with the foam insulation panel on the inside. Just because I had scrap diamond plate that I had no other use for from the driptray back splash I put it on the front for looks. I cut pieces of 1/2 foam insulation for the walls, door and underneath the shelves and I used aluminum tape and caulked all the edges. I wanted to make sure I could drop the temp in the lower chamber down to lager temps or cold crash and keep it there without affecting the upper chamber. I also put foam weather sealer around the door with a cabinet latch and magnetic latch that way the door cannot open unintentionally. I ran a separate extension cord up through the back through a previously existing hole and the power for the fan under the lower shelves to hide it.


Doors will be the next post

 

HELL YEAH! Can I come get it? DUDE!!!! That is BAD ASS!

Cannot wait to see more picts!

Cheers
Jay

 

The next part is the doors. These are one of the first things I envisioned. I wanted the whole kegerator to be very nice and clean. I saw slot of builds where the foam was exposed. You have to remove the plastic shelves in order to fit 4 kegs and an large enclosed lower fermentation chamber. How I did this was literally just prying the plastic shelves off the doors revealing the expanded foam behind them. This is the back breaking work here. I used a paint scraper to level the surface and once I hacked away the layer to level it I used a square run across it inorder to make sure the foam was at a minimum level with the door.

For the freezer door I have to chip around the ice dispenser because that is what was holding it in the door. Once I removed it I leveled the foam surface just like the fridge door

Now to fill the large hole from the ice dispenser. I cut a piece of 3/4" ply to fit in the space and used short screws from the front to hold it in place. Then I braced the plywood with some scrap 1x4 pine. Which the upper brace was also placed there for a place to run the shanks through.

I wanted to then fill the gap left between the 3/4" plywood and the FRP I was gonna place on top. I used expanding foam and I filled the gaps with it. LESSON LEARNED(Use Wax/parchment paper between the wood and expanding foam inorder to make it easier to remove.) LET IT DRY FOR AT LEAST 24hours.

I waited to paint the doors until I cut the holes for the ITC-1000. I used an ITC to make a cardboard stencil. I mapped out where I wanted them and made sure there was no obstacles in the way behind them. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the holes.

Once the holes were cut I painted JUST the edges where the gasket and FRP were going to be. Again sanded and put 2 coats. I used the plastic shelves to make an outline on the FRP to transfer to the doors. LESSON LEARNED make sure to ROUND the edges of the FRP. It makes putting the gasket on much easier. I sanded the foam to make it softer. Blew it off with the compressor and then used liquid nails to lay the FRP on the door with the gasket wrapped around the edges. I also used 1/4 " screws to hold the gasket in place. Then I clamped a long piece of scrap to the FRP to hold it together to dry over night.

Next Post is the ITC-1000 Wiring

 

****ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK****
I am not an electrician but I am trained with wiring and electronics repair for the US Navy so I am comfortable with this stuff. If you are not DO NOT ATTEMPT before I installed the ITC's I painted the front of the doors.
ITC-1000 Wiring
Here is my electrical setup.

There is just one thermostat in the fridge. As some others have on here I just used the wires going to the thermostat and wired them up to the cooling relay on the kegerators ITC-1000. Disconnected the red and orange wire off of the thermostat and ran them through the wall inside a cable organizer and to the ITC. I was going to run power from the extension cord I ran to the fermentation side but I actually discovered there was 110v right there by the door from what was the Ice Maker sensor. LESSON LEARNED(Make sure you test all the connections around that area. And make sure you test with the light switch depressed and released.) My original power plan was to use the power that was for the light in the door dispensor. But then I discovered it had a cut out when the door opened. SO I stumbled across those 110 pins for the Ice Maker sensor which works like a charm. I wired that one up like normal.

Now the Fermentation side was a little easier.LESSON LEARNED(For some reason I decided to OVER design the wiring. I wanted quick disconnects so I didnt have to unwire the door if they ever needed to be removed. HORRIBLE IDEA!! Its not hard to disconnect and reconnect the wires from the controllers. I ended up just using the connectors and shrink wrapped them to prevent any issues.) DO NOT DO THIS. It was a head ache not worth having. I regretted it instantly.
This is where Sidman's thread SUCKED ME IN!http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=524849

First I measured out the lengths of the 1x4 to fit in each chamber. Then I took the 15 amp extension cords and cut the ends off. I wired them up to the GFCI outlets like normal. I used the stock NTC sensor wires that came with the ITC to the RJ11 wall plate. I wired them up to the Red post and the Green Post which is the center two wires. I then cut the hole for the outlet and used a hole bit to cut the hole for the RJ11 wall plate.
I mounted them on the 1x4 and ran all the lower wires up the corner to the upper chamber through a slot I planned and cut from the beginning when I built the shelf. I then mounted the 1x4 to the 2x2 leg with 3 inch screws.
LESSON LEARNED(Organization of the wires NOW will help at the end of the wiring MARK THEM ALL)

I then repeated what I did to the lower 1x4 for the upper but now I ran all the wires behind the board up and secured it with 2 inch screws into the wall. BE SURE TO NOT SCREW INTO THE WIRES BEHIND IT.

I then used a piece of corner cable organizer to run all the wires from the corner to the electrical area and out the underside. I had to strip the extension cord sleeve away from the wires all the way to the corner to get it to fit.

Again making sure all the wires are marked. I then hard wired the fans to the ITC-1000 cooling side and hard wired the GFCI outlets to the heating side. REMEMBER Ground to the the fridges available ground wire. I conected all the Neutral(White) wires together with a wire nut and a zip tie but I ran a jumper to each controllers Neutral side. Then I connected all the Hot(Black) wires together but I ran a jumper to each controllers Hot Side and one side of the Heating Relay and Cooling relay and then ran the Hot wires to each fan and outlet that way I am switching the HOT side. Do not wire the heating and cooling with a hot wire and a neutral. Always switch the Hot Side.
Here is a good thread to help

and
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=385792

Google is AMAZING! There are SOOO many STC-1000 and ITC-1000 wiring diagrams and TONS of help. READ AS MUCH AS YOU CAN ABOUT THIS. There are a TON of ways to wiring these things up. They are identical to wire. There is no RIGHT way there are just many ways to do it but there is DEFINITELY a wrong way and it can cause many issues if you do it wrong.

 

Finally at this point I installed the 3 1/8" Shanks by measuring where I wanted each shank and used a 1" hole saw to drill through the diamond plate, aluminum wall, 3/4" ply, 1x4 pine support, expanded foam and the FRP back. And the bit I bought worked great. I pushed just until the drill bit stuck through the FRP and went back from the FRP side to finish the hole. This created a cleaner hole.


I attached all the 3/16" beer lines to the nipples with the hose clamps and cleaned up the routing so they didnt pinch in the door.

When wiring the NTC to a RJ11 plug HUGE LESSON LEARNED(Tin the wires) that way you get a clean no fray connection with the CENTER two pins on a RJ11. I didnt tin and it NEVER worked. Once I tinned the wires and crimped the RJ11 plug onto them they worked the first try!
So here it is. Completed and ready to use. I am just waiting on the new NTC sensors I got. Really just preference. I want to mount one in each chamber and in the kegerator inside a vile of water. That way i dont get so much cycling since temperature change in a mass is MUCH slower then air temp change. The Fermentation chamber will also have thermowells for the fermentation vessels which is why I wanted SIDMAN's RJ11 set up for MUCH greater flexibility. I want to thank SIDMAN for his support during the whole build. That man was A HUGE HELP and I couldnt have done it without his guidence and the members of HBT. If you have ANY questions let me know and I will get back to you ASAP. Either respond here or message me.

 

Looks terrific, great job.

 

Thanks Dixon

 

very clever and VERY cool

 

Very nice job!

 

Thanks guys!

 

Nice work

 

I love it. I want to build one.

 

That is awesome

 

holy **** balls. on the list of things to do.

 

So if you're keeping your kegs at 40 wish degrees and you need to go down to sayyyyyy 33-35 in your bottom chamber, how would you manage that?

 

Also, what were you in the navy?

 

That is a great looking build. Wish I had that kind of room.

 

Following!

 

All I can say is WOW!

 

A thing of beauty! Thank you for sharing.

 

I didn't think I'll need to bring my fermentation sides down lower then my serving side

 

That is awesome. I want one

 

Amazing as u know I got my side by side started lol work in progress I see a few issues but I'm sure I can msg you if I have any issues

 

Freakin awesome BigDeal!!!! Love the blue lights and talk about super clean and tight. My favorites are the diamond plate, the liner inside your doors , the fact you wired into the thermostat and the nice gas / beer line management. Appreciate the props but that great build is all you. I can tell you put a ton of hours into it and it shows. After seeing your build I feel like I need to add that nitro tap and tighten up my lines.
Big props man, that is awesome and truly drool worthy!

 

Wow, fantastic.

 

Thank you. Ink bird like the controllers?? I love em. They are perfect!

 

Great job!!

You've got one fan for each of your right-half fermentation spaces, correct? They both pull in cold kegerator air when needed to control the temps in each?

I've built something similar, but using the lower CFM fan (AC Infinity from Amazon as well, the 45CFM one) and without subdividing the right half. I've noticed though that unless I provide a return air path, the fan doesn't move much air when it's all closed up and it barely opens the louvers.

How are you providing a return path for your fans?

Maybe your fans push hard enough to pull air through all the little tiny openings that I'm sure are present in a fridge?

Thanks! Again, great job!

 

Any pics of this with your fermenters in there?

 

I too wonder about this. I am building a very similar kegerator as yours and was wondering if I need to account for return air? I am using the variable speed dual fans. Your machine is kick ass BTW.:rockin: