Not an STC-1000. Could someone help with wiring please?

I was wondering if I could have some electrical assistance.

I thought I bought an STC1000 on ebay. I watched videos and rad threads on how to wire one. I was feeling confident. However, I received a MH1210W

It only has 1,2 3,4 5,6 holes in the back. Is anyone familiar with it and could explain how to wire it?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/ (I hope that works)

Thanks for any input. I am pretty frustrated at my stupidity for picking up the wrong thing.

Cheers!
Caz

 

1- is the white neutral, 2- is the black hot wire because the switch is between terminals 1 and 2.

For example: Hook the white wire directly to terminal #1, and the load is in the black wire, whatever you are wiring in has two terminals: one wire goes to terminal #1, and one wire to the black hot wire.

3 and 4 is the power for the display, and 5 and 6 are for the sensor.

Due to the potential of danger, this post is only an idea of mine, and is not intended to be instructions on how to wire your device. Check with local codes on the use of this device.

 

I just got my fermen-keezer working with two very similar devices. I the previous poster didn't fully answer your question, pm me and I can help.

-gary

 

This is the wiring diagram from the MH1210 "manual" with some notations added.

Note that this is a single-stage controller, unlike the STC-1000. Great for kegerators and keezers, not so much for fermentation chambers. I have one of these mounted in the lid of my keezer, works great...

Cheers!

 

I have the same model and I am having trouble wiring it up. I hear the mh1210f clicking when passing the set point but nothing happens. Where does the white and black from the unit you want to run go? That is the part I am getting confused about I see from the picture above that the blck coming from the wall goes to 1 and 3. The white from the wall goes to 2 and 4. I am just unsure about the white and black from my outlet which line do the tie in to?

 

Do you have any input that might help? To my problem about figuring where the black and white from my outlet I want to power goes?

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=sin...4Dw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1843&bih=897#imgdii=_

i cant get the pic to load from work but follow the link it should be the very 1st pic

 

Thanks I'll give it a try tonight

 

That is what I used for mine in my keezer build

 

In the diagram above your post there is a box with diagonal lines in it that represents "the unit you want to run".

Attach the black/hot wire from said unit to the top of the X'd box where it says BLACK, then attach the white/neutral wire from said unit to the other side of the box where the other WHITE wires are...

Cheers!

 

Thanks guys I spoke with the person that I purchased the unit from and I received a faulty unit. Ha go figure I couldn't get it to work. Sheesh I should be receiving the new one Tuesday. Hopefully that will take care of my issues!
Cheers!!

 

See fourth post from Day Tripper. That's correct. You only ever switch your hot side (black). So you have hot in on terminal 1 and hot out on terminal 2 when the relay kicks on. Terminal 3 is hot and terminal 4 is neutral (these power the unit and ultimately the relay). Terminals 5 & 6 are for the temp probe. Doesn't matter which way around you wire it.

 

How did you conclude it was faulty? I'm having the same problem. Both thermometer and freezer are powered and working (I KNOW the wiring is correct), but when the freezer cools to my desired temp, I hear the MH1210F click but nothing happens. The freezer keeps cooling to it's normal temp of around 15 degrees. I can't figure out what the problem could be.

 

Plug a lamp into the outlet socket of controller, put sensor in freezer cool to below set temperature, if light stays "on" unit is not working correctly. if it goes out cycle several time to make sure it is consistent.

 

Great tip! I tried it and the lamp stayed on. I suppose that answers that.

 

I never trust the relays in those cheap PID's to run inductive loads like a freezer. I add a solid state relay to take the load to keep from frying(and sticking) relay contacts. Depending on the SSR the wiring can be very different so hard to diagram it without you having the exact parts. Basically the hot from the PID triggers the SSR which also has one side connected to the hot then to the outlet... I can see the diagram in my head for one example but that is the one I use for the freezer to fridge conversion I have running off my solar setup. I repaired electronics for 30+ years so what I think is easy I can confuse you fast on lol