American IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Trying my first attempt to this style this weekend. I have a funny feeling it will be the first of many! I'll be using Azacca, El Dorada, and Citra. 2 gen of Conan for yeast.

 

Off to a good start with those hops and 2nd gen Conan will help it hit fg. I like to ferment it during primary fermentation at 68 tops but I think others have noted a little higher like 70 tops will throw a few more fruity esters. Good luck let us know how it turns out.

 

Just added first dry hop charge to my latest version of this. Trying Idaho "hop hash", along with citra, mosaic, and galaxy. At 31% alpha, the Idaho is uncharted territory, but it smelled so great at the LHBS, couldn't resist. We shall see. Didn't use it in either the flameout or hop stand additions. Just dry hop.

 

No offense but at 88%aa with 1318 that must be some miracle nutrient! Any details you can add?

 

Not sure if you got your answer but I did a check to see how much was left. This is what I had left after I drained the keg of sanitizer solution. Probably ~8-10oz

 

let us know how that 007 hop hash is, I was thinking about giving it a try.

 

Holy S---! 31% AA! never heard of it!

 

Yeah, that's high. Bissell Brothres just released a new IPA made with that Idaho hop.

 

Brewing my NEIPA tomorrow.
8 lb US 2-row
3 lb Vienna
1 lb flaked wheat
1 lb flaked oats
1 lb wildflower honey (instead of sugar/dextrose)
4 oz honey malt

1 oz Azacca 15 min boil
1 oz each Azacca, Galaxy, Citra @ flameout
1 oz each Azacca, Galaxy, Citra @ high kreusen (day 2-3)
1 oz each Azacca, Galaxy, Citra when visible fermentation subsides for about 5-7 days.

Using a vitality starter of WLP 007 because I don't trust 1318's attenuation.

Fermenting at 70F.

It's very similar to my last version which turned out fantastic (aiming for a Treehouse Green/Julius taste), just with a slightly different hops profile (last time I used Simcoe, Mosaic, Centennial, and all Galaxy and Citra in the dry hop). FWIW, that one also used WLP001, which I contend is still a great yeast for this style.

 

Well I think 2 things happened here. I accidently bought wine yeast nutrient a few months ago. First brew I used it in was a Hop hands clone and I followed the directions on the package(1 tsp/gal). Needless to say it finished at 1.003 instead of 1.012. I have continued to use it but 1/2 to 1 tsp per 5 gal. It does seem to knock off a couple thousandths. I also feel I overpitched the yeast. But I wanted to be more safe than sorry. I planned to use some washed 6 month old, 2nd gen, 1318, but I was leary of it. So I added a tsp of 3rd gen, 1318 to it and built a 2L starter for 24+ hours.

 

Interesting, I've wanted to get some more attenuation out of 1318. Do you know whose product it is, or what's in it?

 

This is what I used. Northern Brewers yeast Nutrient. As you can see if you read, it is for wine and mead. But the beer yeast seem to like it. Just use it in moderation.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/yeast-nutrient

 

Wow, that seems crazy. What was your mash temp? do you do a mashout? It doesn't have amylase in it does it, like Beano?

 

Mash was 153F. I do BIAB. Target PH was 5.4 using brunwater. I do not have a PH meter.

 

I know, I really wasn't sure how much to use. Just figuring that one oz of this stuff maybe equals about 3 oz of citra or galaxy which typically are in the 13-14% range.

Should know in about a week how this works out.

 

I'll be kegging my version of this beer fermented with A20 Citrus at 72 degrees on Saturday! I will post a pic and description for sure, right now I'm very curious to see where the FG lands.

 

Well, if you used it for dryhopping only, the AA is not likely important. The beta acid content could increase IBUs in dry-hopping:

http://scottjanish.com/increasing-bitterness-dry-hopping/

For dryhop character, oil content may be a more important guide. It looks to have pretty good oil content. Interested to hear what it does to the beer in dry hop.

 

Interesting - thanks for the link. Label indicates total oil at 3.7mL/100g which is quite a bit higher than typical aroma pellet hop oil content from a quick on-line look. Beta at 9.4%.

 

Have used the A20 Citrus with my last two batches. From my (albeit limited) experience, it takes this yeast a while to do its thing. I started at 1.062. Wasn't able to get it below 1.016 even after warming it up. Tastes amazing though, so that is fine with me. Beer tasted dry and clean. Interested in hearing how yours turns out.

 

I'm excited for the day when breeders look to increase oil content through the roof. It can't just be maximum oil content with weird flavors, but when they can focus on massive oil content and pleasant character, we are in for a revolution in hoppy beer-making!

 

thread hijack. in my experience, commerical hefeweizen (here and in germany), and my own hefeweizens clear up entirely in the bottle after a few weeks. However it is standard procedure to swirl up the bottom and pour the yeast in too, and imho a hefeweizen without the yeast tastes like it's missing part of the flavor profile.

Every place I had hefeweizen in german (probably 200+ different bars and restaurants) swirled up the yeast, and so do i.

I have to take special measures with my large bottles so I can get some yeast and cloudiness into the first glass too.

 

I've never liked old homebrewed hefeweizens with the yeast, but I love commercial, German hefeweizen that is very cloudy. I think it offers more mouthfeel perhaps. I've heard that commercial hefeweizen has been cleared of most hefe yeast and is replaced with lager yeast, which is much more pleasant and does not autolyze as easily.

 

Just to update, took a reading today (4 days in) and I'm at 1.020. Feeling pretty good about it. Mashed at 154 btw.

I'll probably take another reading next week when I add the second dry hop. Or just hold off until I keg, not too sure yet.

 

I just dry hopped my lager NE IPA hybrid. WLP 800. Should be really interesting, and let my hops and pils/honey malt shine.

I'll post pics when I keg it

 

Any noted problems with the NE style in competitions? Knocked down on appearance if cloudy from bottle?

 

Bottled my first attempt of this with WLP007, 150S:75C and dry hopped twice with citra/mosaic/galaxy. It finished at 1.009. HOLY S**T! This is literaly juice poured from heaven. Even with everything I have read, I was expecting a strong hints of fruits but not literaly a layered tropical juice bomb. Can't wait to have it carbed. I just hope that everything went fine and won't suffer of oxidation before they carb up properly.

 

Looks good! Same impression I got from the hydrometer after the first dry hop. Can't wait to put it on the gas next week.

 

That looks great. Did you use the original recipe or the updated recipe from post #1418?

I'm brewing this today. Im going with the original recipe but forgot to add the white wheat and used flaked wheat instead on accident. We shall see how it comes out. Shouldn't be too much of a difference I would think.

If this recipe comes out as good as I'm hoping, I'm gonna brew a keg of it to bring on my bros bachelor party in Reno, and then another batch for his wedding to put in cans, with custom labels I made from their wedding photos. That's the plan anyhow..lol

 

i havent had anyone else's homebrewed hefeweizens, but I have noticed that only about 1 in 10 US-made commercial hefeweizens don't suck.

never heard that theory on the yeast being replaced with lager yeast. I don't really find lager yeast to be pleasant, however

 

Awesome. I have not used this yeast before, so I am wondering where it will finish at as well. I checked on wednesday and it was at 1.017. I raised temp up to 72 over the last couple of days with the hopes of helping it finish a bit lower.

 

Is everybody using the same grain bill as post 1418? Has anyone come up with the grain bill or addition to get that super bright orange color? I know taste is what everyone is going for first, appearance is second but those glowing orange beers look delicious!

 

I use 2-3 lb of Vienna malt and it imparts a nice light amber/orange tint to an otherwise pale yellow brew.

Then again, I put Vienna in almost everything anymore.

In fact I'm brewing it as we speak, so later this afternoon I will try to remember to take a pic and post it (it will be raw wort, not finished beer, but at least it'll give an idea).

 

I used the recipe from post 1418 with 100% maris otter as base malt. I'm pretty sure you wouldnt even see the diffence from white yeast in side by side taste anyway! Good luck with your brew!

 

Wanted to do this recipe with Denali eureka and Simcoe any suggestions on amounts?

 

Just brewed this tonight in my grainfather. Had a pretty hard time with the grainbill and then my black filter end cap fell off for the first time ever. I think I had too much flaked grain for the grainfather. Can't wait till I get my 3 vessel system over to the new house. I still think it may of turned out good though but we shall see.

 

I also plan to use denali and eureka in my next version. i am planning on 1 oz per gal of each

 

70% 2 row
22% oats
8% wheat

All mosaic at flameout, whirlpool, dryhop

View attachment 1485615511572.jpg

 

How do you like the 100% Mosaic? I have considered doing that, but just never pulled the trigger on it.

 

Anyone have any experience with Idaho 7 "hop hash?" Something like 34% alpha acids.... lol

I picked up two ounces of it. Thinking about them in a NE IPA, but the stuff scares me. Thinking one ounces at flame out ,and another for dry hopping.

 

I love mosaic. It also tastes great as a cuvee with my all citra batch