New to kegging, faint hiss from relief valve on pin-lock Corny

Hi,

I'm new to kegging. I have a reconditioned 10 lb CO2 tank from Amazon, filled by a local fire-suppression company, and new regulator from my LHBS. Both seem to work well.

I also have a used pin-lock Cornelius keg with 5+ gallons of Pilsner in it.

Here is my dilemma...

... whenever there is pressure applied to the keg, the psi is maintained on the regulator, but I hear a faint hissing from the keg. My un-trained ear is fairly sure it's coming from the relief valve in the lid.

After much experimenting, re-doing this and that, accidentally backwashing beer into my regulator (and learning how to dis/reassemble it), and wasting God knows how much CO2 - but I guess that's like crying over spilled milk...

... I have discovered that TINKERING with the relief valve changes the nature of the sound or altogether eliminates it temporarily. It's as if I have to pull up just a HAIR on it to make it stop. Usually it restarts on its own, but right now I've found the "g spot," so to speak, and it seems happy.

However, that can't be right. Surely the default position is supposed to work.

I don't have a lot to work with in terms of equipment. Any thoughts on what is causing this specifically? Do I need a new valve, or is there something I can do to help this one? The rubber bottom of the mechanism seems to be damn tight to the bottom, and the spring is strong.

Do I have any chance of carbonating this batch, or am I just asking to lose the rest of the tank to a leak?

Does the fact I've filled this keg too high have ANY bearing on the sound I'm hearing? I now know to make sure I'm pressurized when I hook to the keg.

Thoughts? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

Soapy water in a spray bottle can help pinpoint the leak location (and verify that you're fixed the leak). And yes, you will quickly lose your whole tank of CO2 unless you fix the leak right now. How full the keg is shouldn't have any bearing on the leak.

I'd remove the valve, and make sure there's no debris stuck on the rubber or where the rubber mates with the valve. I'd also check for any cracks, scratches or nicks in either the rubber or the mating surface. A little keg lube on the rubber is probably a good idea too. If the rubber is damaged, or you can't get it to seal well, then you might need to buy a replacement valve.

 

Hi Juan,

Thank you for your reply. I tried the soapy water - had some handy from fixing leaks in an air mattress - but it didn't identify anything. After more tinkering, though, I'm positive it's the relief valve. Perhaps the holes are too big for the water to bubble.

Anyway, I removed the valve, cleaned it, cleaned the dimple in which it sits, and put it back in. The surfaces do not appear to be compromised, but I will try to get keg lube.

The plastic on top of the valve is all chewed up now from my tightening and loosening, but I don't think that's mechanically relevant.

Is a replacement valve something my LHBS would have? I checked eBay, and it seems they only have valves for ball-lock, whereas I have a pin-lock. Does that matter? Or are all relief valves for cornys the same?

Thanks again.

 

Try homebrewing.org I saw they have used pin lock lids for $1. Even if you buy 5 it's still cheaper than a new relief valve.

 

wow - thank you!

 

I haven't peeked, but at that price I bet those are standard pin lock lids without manual PRVs...

Cheers!

 

I have one keg where the PRV on the lid does that. It leaks until it sits perfectly, then it's fine as long as I don't touch it. I can also hear mine hissing, so I just make sure it's happy before I close up the keezer.

 

just want to post an update - the new valve did the trick! thanks, everyone.