New Dank Citrus IPA Recipe Help

I am looking to try and get through some of my stored hops in an IPA Let me know what you think of this 4 hop combo. Im going for a danky, piney, citrusy IPA.

Malts (12 lb 8.7 oz)
11 lb 7.8 oz (91.6%) — BestMälz Pale Ale (BestMälz) — Grain — 2.5 SRM

8.5 oz (4.2%) — Briess Carapils — Grain — 1.5 SRM

8.5 oz (4.2%) — Great Western Crystal 2-Row — Grain — 60 SRM


Hops (12.75 oz)
0.75 oz (28 IBU) — Magnum 12% — Boil — 60 min

0.5 oz (5 IBU) — Cascade 5.5% — Boil — 15 min

0.5 oz (9 IBU) — Centennial 10% — Boil — 15 min

0.5 oz (11 IBU) — Chinook 13% — Boil — 15 min

0.5 oz (16 IBU) — Eureka! 18% — Boil — 15 min

0.5 oz (4 IBU) — Cascade 5.5% — Boil — 10 min

0.5 oz (7 IBU) — Centennial 10% — Boil — 10 min

0.5 oz (9 IBU) — Chinook 13% — Boil — 10 min

0.5 oz (12 IBU) — Eureka! 18% — Boil — 10 min

1 oz (2 IBU) — Cascade 5.5% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1 oz (3 IBU) — Centennial 10% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1 oz (4 IBU) — Chinook 13% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1 oz (6 IBU) — Eureka! 18% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1 oz — Cascade 5.5% — Dry Hop — 7 days

1 oz — Centennial 10% — Dry Hop — 7 days

1 oz — Chinook 13% — Dry Hop — 7 days

1 oz — Eureka! 18% — Dry Hop — 7 days

 

5 gallon batch? If so then I think your IBUs are a bit high at over 100. Looking at it in terms of BU/GU. Though, there are other factors that play a role in the perceived bitterness of a beer.

Also, If you believe anything in hop saturation (some believe that 8 grams per liter is all you need) then you are over 2x the amount you would need. Ive never used those hops all together in combination but it looks like it would be good

 

Yes a 5 gallon batch. I think I can easily cut all the hop quantities in the boil in half or at least the high AA additions.

 

Just cutting out that Magnum charge might just do it. At ~1.060 I think lowering the IBUs is a good idea

 

Did some tweaks to the 60 and 15 minute additions.
Malts (13 lb 7.2 oz)
12 lb 4.8 oz (91.5%) — BestMälz Pale Ale (BestMälz) — Grain — 2.5 SRM

9.2 oz (4.3%) — Briess Carapils — Grain — 1.5 SRM

9.2 oz (4.3%) — Great Western Crystal 2-Row — Grain — 60 SRM


Hops (11.9 oz)
0.5 oz (18 IBU) — Magnum 12% — Boil — 60 min

0.5 oz (5 IBU) — Cascade 5.5% — Boil — 15 min

0.3 oz (5 IBU) — Centennial 10% — Boil — 15 min

0.3 oz (7 IBU) — Chinook 13% — Boil — 15 min

0.3 oz (9 IBU) — Eureka! 18% — Boil — 15 min

0.5 oz (4 IBU) — Cascade 5.5% — Boil — 10 min

0.5 oz (7 IBU) — Centennial 10% — Boil — 10 min

0.5 oz (9 IBU) — Chinook 13% — Boil — 10 min

0.5 oz (12 IBU) — Eureka! 18% — Boil — 10 min

1 oz (2 IBU) — Cascade 5.5% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1 oz (3 IBU) — Centennial 10% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1 oz (4 IBU) — Chinook 13% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1 oz (6 IBU) — Eureka! 18% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1 oz — Cascade 5.5% — Dry Hop — 7 days

1 oz — Centennial 10% — Dry Hop — 7 days

1 oz — Chinook 13% — Dry Hop — 7 days

1 oz — Eureka! 18% — Dry Hop — 7 days

 

that's getting your GU/BU lower at least around 1.3. still bitter but better than the 1.7 or so it was.
Its my personal preference but any time I start adding over a pound of crystal into a heavy hopped beer it starts to get too sweet for me so I would keep it as is for the crystal.

 

I agree. I usually try and keep the crystal to half a pound, just for a bit of color. Im going to brew this saturday so im anxious to see how it turns out.

 

I would eliminate the 15 and 10 minute additions and cut the 60 minute addition to .25 ounces. Move all the 10 and 15 minute additions to a hop stand and enjoy. I'd also consider Columbus if you want dank.

 

Would you swap out the centennial? I feel like with 4 different hops something is going to get lost here.

 

Would you swap out the centennial? I feel like with 4 different hops something is going to get lost if I add any more.

 

It doesn't make sense to use both to me. My understanding is that they are very similar. The dankest of the dank hops I've ever used is Columbus though. If you want dank, Columbus is your hop.

 

Reading some more of the flavor notes, im going to swap the centennial for CTZ (aka columbus). I also created another variant of this recipe with Citra, Apollo, Simcoe & CTZ. Gonna make them both this weekend and see which one I like better.

 

Simcoe would probably go good with Columbus/CTZ. I find Simcoe piney and that goes well with the dank smell of Columbus. I currently have a beer in the fermenter that uses Columbus, Citra, and Galaxy, but this is the first time I've ever used Citra and Columbus together. La Cumbre's Elevated IPA uses Columbus and Simcoe together though, and it is an excellent beer. I suspect the Citra beer will be more juicy and the other one more plant like/piney/dank. Both can be good it just depends on your preferences.

 

Where did that info you cited come from? Just curious

 

That’s quite the change of advice considering a few weeks ago you said any low bitterness ipa is bland

If you’re looking dankness you need to use hops that are high in both geraniol and 4mmp. Here’s a resource that will help. Not on the list but Is high in both is Columbus and a good choice in addition to the others

 

That's absolutely not what I said in that thread. The topic in question was Imperial IPA (not even the same style) that was deliberately brewed at the bottom of the BJCP guidelines for that style. In this thread, Magnum isn't going to produce any discernible aroma, so if the goal is a dank aroma, getting a good chunk of the bitterness from hops that are boiled for an hour is going to reduce the amount he's able to obtain from later additions. Obviously some baseline bitterness is going to be required to hit an appropriate level of bitterness for any style of pale ale, but that doesn't make a 70 IBU American IPA with all of it coming from 60 minute additions is equal to one that has minimal 60 minute additions and the remainder late additions.

Moving the 10 and 15 minute additions to the hopstand is going to reduce overall bitterness somewhat and so some adjustments may have to be made to achieve the desired level of bittering, either by more hops in the hopstand or increasing the boiled additions. Considering this recipe began at nearly double the bittering called for in a conventional American IPA, there will be plenty left over. That's not to say there aren't 100+ IBU IPAs at modest gravities that are still very good, but deviating from the guidelines is something I'd only suggest after the person has brewed a similar recipe and thus knows the ingredients well. Otherwise, if what one wants is a certain style, modeling the recipe so that it fits within the parameters for that style and adjusting from there is much better than brewing something drastically unbalanced in hope that the tastes will mesh in such a way that it works out.

There really are no "rules" anyway; these things are more like traditions when it comes to beer styles, with lots of overlap between styles.