My RIMS system is coming together nicely...proud of it

Hi guys...I am about 20 hours of labor or so from getting it done. Just wanted to show it to you guys.

Gas needs to be plumbed...switches installed in control box....pump hardwired....copper and kegs polished......etc...I just got my HLT back today from the welders...did a quick mock up of what it will look like with thermometers and sightglasses. I have all stainless valves coming and eventually I will have my brew day!!!!


Thanks to those that have put up with my retarded questions so far...I got many more to follow


:rockin:

 

Ive been helping another dude with programming his Auber PID... maybe you will want to look at these parameters.

I am going to give you all of my parameters....

Push and HOLD the set button until ALM 1 shows up on the upper window...

After all of this is set... use the A/M button to switch between AUTO and MANUAL mode

ALM1 = who cares this only closes the relay
ALM2 = who cares this only closes the relay
HY-1 = 9999
HY-2 = 9999
HY = 0.0
At = 3 (this needs to be 1 or 2 to start auto tuning, automatically reverts to 3 after tuning is complete. SET THIS TO 2 and it will start to Auto tune after 10 seconds, after 2-3 times on and off action the microprocessor will analyze the period, amplitude, waveform and the oscilation generated by the ON-OFF control and calculate the optimal control parameter value. It will perform accurate artificial intelligence control after AUTOTUNING)
I = 0
P = 0
d = 0
t = 1
Sn = 0
dP = 0
P-SL = -100
P-SH = 2500
Pb = 0.0
oP-A = 0
ouTL = 0
ouTH = 100
AL-P = 17
Cool = 10
Addr = 1
Baud = 9600
A-M = 1
File = 0
Lock = 808
EP 1-8 = NONE

 

Oh my goodness...my head just started spinning

Pol,

Does the system need to be filled with a recircuilating liquid of some type (being heated by an element) to make this set parameters properly?

 

No need to worry, it has been done for you

 

Looks real, real nice. Are you going to put a coat of high temp paint on that bad boy?

 

Hurry up and finish it so you can brew some beer for me and then build me one.

 

haha....I am going to go with gloss black on this one. I contemplated the flat black high temp stuff....I still may go with it, haven't decided. I still have to fabricate the sparge arm...I already have one, but the determined length section (hangs into grain bed) is a hard one.

I was thinking about doing a stainless within stainless hose, just incase I decided to do a 5 gallon batch. I thin it would be too hard and expensive to come up with one. I think I will make another sparge manifold with a preset down length tube and have two...one for 10 gallon batches and one for 5 gallon batches......

But....not every 5/10 gallon batch is similiar in grain bill weight/volume.

What do you guys think about that one?

 

Why not just use an adjustable return line (hose) like this? It is an option. It is called LocLine and I love it!!

 

Where can I check one of those out? That looks like a nice idea.

How does it hold up to 165+ water though?

 

165F water? Muahahaha... you can boil it and it doesnt even get soft (I know I have done it) It is awesome because you can adjust it to sit just below the water level in the MLT regardless of the size of the mash.

I use it as my HERMS return line and my fly sprage line.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#loc-line-coolant-hose/=3we6wn

 

Man that is F'ing awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have been checking it out.

I have questions:

I want atleast a 12" section with 1/2" NPT connectors on both ends (that way I can use the cool sparge manifold I made out of copper) Do I need to order this custom or are the sections replaceable without having to purchase the "pliers" they sell?

If this is the case I AM GOLDEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You dont need the pliers, I never bought them and joined (2) 12" sections to make mine.

How heavy is the sparge manifold? Too heavy and it will pull the loc line straight (though it is pretty damn rigid, so I dunno)... I personally wouldnt use the manifold as it is redundant.

 

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are the MAN!

Hey bro seriously thank you for all the help soo far....You have made it a little easier with all the knowledge you share.

I think I will visit McMaster Carr right now and get my stuff!

 

It works well, you will enjoy the flexibility it gives you (no pun intended)

 

I just ordered it. I have seen it before on several peoples' brewing projects but never paid attention. The cool thing is I can customize the length, attach items with the 1/2" NPT ends and still use my copper sparge arm. This was the last big thought item I needed to come up with. I just ordered it..... $20.00 for 2' of line and a 4 pack of 1/2" NPT male ends. It definitely just made my day 100 times easier!

Thanks for the help buddy!

 

Oh, I am a complete jerk... just ask around

Glad to help.

 

Haha. Thanks again

 

I will PM you my address so that you can send me some of the first batch you brew on this beast. I figure that will be repayment enough.

 

Im still a month away from brewing my friend. It'll probablky taste like sh*t with my luck...hahaha

 

Question...are your MLT and HLT hard piped to the structure? If so, what is the plan for cleaning?

I am looking to build a similar set up but the plumbing/cleaning has me hesitant.

Looks great...BTW.

 

The copper manifold is brazed together but it has compression unions at certain points.

The copper manifold that is brazed and solid is from the HLT, y's into the downpipe that has a 1/2" FNPT brazed onto it (ends right at the top of the MLT) for a flexible hose and copper manifold sparge arm I made...... and it extends over to the top of the heat exchanger where it is attached by another compression union.

The heat exchanger comes apart at the bottom (the element threads in to the base of the copper reducer), then the entire heat exchanger slips into the 2" pipe welded into my stand.....the copper heat echanger reducer (bottom) is tapered so I slipped a big oring over the tapered sectioned and when the heat exchanger sits in the pipe, it does not move an inch and the weight is on the oring not the brass.

It should work nicely and it should clean itself (to a point) as it circulates for the hour as it mashes. Then I plan to pump the water from cooling the wort into the HLT, heat it up to a good temp and recirculate it with sanitizer for 10-15 minutes...it should clean nicely.

By the time I am done and all of my fittings and 3 piece valves arrive...I will have 2 pieces of brass in the whole setup (compression unions). The rest will be all stainless and copper.

I need to modify the horizontal pipe that connects the MLT to the HLT to add a 2" 1/4" FNPT sleve to add my temp probe for my electronics

 

I rethought my idea and cut the copper down to a minimum. I was originally going to take the temperature reference before the heat exchanger, but after some advice from guys on the site I decided to remove the menagerie of piping to the left of the MLT and just make a straight shot with a 3 piece ball valve (SS) and a SS quick disconnect from morebeer.com

Fluid transfer will come from two 6' sections of silicone hose each with a female SS QD from morebeer.com

As you look at the kegs from left to right there will be a 3 piece SS valve with a male end QD (SS) on the BK, the MLT valve is on the bottom, one on the copper manifold and one on the HLT.

I think it is a pretty simple system that won't kill my buzz trying to use it.

I also welded up a cradle for my propane tank to sit in...One trip to the backyard and I am good to go.

Obviously it needs the propane plumbing, wiring to be finished, paint etc. I also plan to line the bottom with extruded steel or aluminum diamondplate

Thanks