My E-Brewing Control Panel | HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk by donating:

  1. Dismiss Notice
  2. We have a new forum and it needs your help! Homebrewing Deals is a forum to post whatever deals and specials you find that other homebrewers might value! Includes coupon layering, Craigslist finds, eBay finds, Amazon specials, etc.
    Dismiss Notice
Corona Virus

My E-Brewing Control Panel

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by snackson, Apr 16, 2012.

 

  1. #1
    snackson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 16, 2012
    I've been working on getting my panel together over the last two months while deployed and I am almost done with it. I'll will post more pictures of the build in the coming weeks when I have a steady internet connection.

    I cloned Kal's panel but went with the 16x20x8 box on eBay. I sourced all my switches, contactors, SSR's, PID's and heatsinks from Auber. I purchased a 12x12 diamond plate from cut2sizemetals.com and had frontpanelexpress.com mill all of the holes. I purchased the wiring kit from Kal which I can say is excellent for anyone undertaking this. The receptacle outlets and various other stuff was purchased from Amazon and Radio Shack.

    Here is an image of what the finished control panel front will look like. The Main Power is a selector switch and the center switch for the HLT/OFF/BOIL is a three way selector switch. The other switches are all illuminated pushbutton switches. I wanted extra protection from dry firing so I chose to go with a switch for each of the elements that will control the contactors for those elements. The three way switch will be controlling power going to the pushbutton switch for each element. I will be using P-J's E-Stop as well.

    Control Panel.jpg
     
  2. #2
    snackson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 16, 2012
    I chose to go with three PID's after first deciding to use a timer. I know that in reality I only need one PID however, I wanted to constantly monitor the temperature. I will be using my HERMS coil for the mash as well as to chill the wort afterward. The vertical rectangle on the right is the key latch that keeps the cabinet closed. On the top I mounted two Auber external heatsinks right next to each other. On the bottom will be the flanged power inlet, two flanged pump outlet receptacles, two heating element receptacles and the three RTD connectors.
     
  3. #3
    l3asturd

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 16, 2012
    Looks like fun, take plenty of pictures as you go!
     
  4. #4
    snackson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 17, 2012
    It's been fun so far. I just can't wait to get back to San Diego and fire it up! Being a mechanic by nature I was intimidated by electricity but PJ's drawings are so easy a caveman could wire one of these up. A double ratcheting crimper makes it a breeze as well!
     
  5. #5
    dan6310

    Member

    Posted Apr 17, 2012
    Good luck with your build. Post some pics as you go.
    Thanks for your service!
     
  6. #6
    l3asturd

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 18, 2012
    [​IMG]
     
  7. #7
    snackson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 19, 2012
    Just got the last stuff from Auber today, going to power through it this weekend and post the pictures next week!
     
  8. #8
    snackson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 22, 2012
    Ended up moving my main power selector switch to the bottom right corner. I will be posting pictures Tuesday. Someone posted this elsewhere, but be sure you keep all the pushbutton switches intact (same color lens/bulb) or else you will be scratching your head why you are not seeing the switch light up. I had a blue cover with a red LED body and was getting frustrated.

    Question about the E-Stop as I do not have all the materials to make P-J's E-Stop but will before I actually use the panel. Couldn't I wire my main power switch to the E-Stop and then to the contactor? Push the button on the E-Stop and it will cut the power out to the rest of my panel and I will only have voltage present BEFORE the contactor. Granted, there would still be electricity there but theoretically it should work right? Then again, what about using the other contacts on the switch for P-J's E-Stop so there are two methods to shut it down by using the same switch.
     
  9. #9
    l3asturd

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 22, 2012
    PJ's Estop is not a conventional Estop, meaning it's not just a normally closed switch that opens when you push it. It is a normally open momentary switch. Where is your GFCI? If you push PJ's E-stop design it trips the GFCI by supplying a small current from a hot leg to ground. For maximum protection, the GFCI shouldn't be in your control panel, so there will be NO voltage in your control panel.

    What parts are you missing?
     
  10. #10
    snackson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Apr 23, 2012
    The resistors. I will have it when I get back home to San Diego. The GFCI is going to be in a spa panel. See, my situation is unique as I will be moving into a house I have yet to see so I don't know the dryer outlet situation but plan on using a spa panel. Military transfer from Hawaii to San Diego in August and my wife gave birth to our triplets in October in Oakland and then I deployed in November so I don't even know what I will have to work with but should be able to make the spa panel work regardless.
     
  11. #11
    nitrousjunkie

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Apr 23, 2012
    A bit off topic, but you were leaving Hawaii as I was getting here. What do you do? I have a BIL that's a diver and got stationed at SD from here.
     
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page

Group Builder