My Brewstand with pics (coming along)

This would be nice to know. I am planning on either the 10, 23 or 32 depending on the time it takes to boil.

 

What size batches are you doing?

 

The ten tips from tejas come with a hole drilled and tapped in the nubbin. This is one way to mount the pilots.

 

Here's a pic of the way the pilot assembly is layed out. My burners were from Bayou Classic Depot. I wouldn't suggest dealing with them. The Tejas mentioned before our a little bit more $$$, but that company is known for better customer service than what I got from BCD. Plus like Tricky Dick said they have a hole already in them where you could mount the pilot assembly...these do not. For mine I haven't had any issue with movement, however before I start rigorously brewing on the system I will be finding a way to affix them to the burner ring. Hope that helps.

 

I have the same pilot lights as in your pictures.

I tried to look, but don't have any photos to share, but I will describe how I mounted them.

On my original burners, not from tejas, the nubbins were not drilled or tapped, but were the same style 10 mini jets cast ring burners like pictured.
I used a vise and bent the aluminum bracket on the pilot assembly, into which the thermocouple and burner are mounted, from a 90° to a 180° so that it was basically just a flat piece of aluminum. I then used a self tapping screw and drilled/mounted to the nubbin. By flattening out the bracket (thankfully it didn't break), the pilot was in a good spot for igniting the main burner. I forget if they mounted on the top or bottom (I think bottom) side of the nubbin. With my newer burners (from tejas) I used bolt/nut and washers to do the same thing.

TD

 

quick question on your wiring, for the STC controller to the Burner Valve, how did you wire it. i saw that Lonnie wired his just 2 power cables to it, did you do the same or did you do 2 power and one negative.

Also did you use SSR's for the wiring to the burners?

 

where did you get you enclosure at and how much did it cost ??

 

The controllers I used are Love TS2 controllers from Dwyer. I think the STC are different. Lonnie used Loves on his as well if I am not mistaken. I wired them exactly as he did, except that because the Honeywell valves run of 24VAC I had to drop the voltage from the 110VAC Love through a transformer. I actually have one transformer per controller and i did not use any SSR's. I'd have to look at the wiring diagram in my Brutus instructions later, but if you have them the wiring is the same, minus the transformer. I dont know about the STC's as I have not used them. Ive cycled the gas valves on and off probably 50 times each with no problems.

The enclosure was found on Ebay for around $40. It's a grey plastic NEMA enclosure that I painted with the left over stand paint. There are usually a ton on Ebay, just a matter of catching what you want at the right price. The face on it was done by Front Panel Express for about a hundred bucks. Just a matter of getting an enclosure, taking the measurements, and using their free online CAD like designer. Hope that helps.

 

Got the dip tubes and false bottom for the MLT and BK installed. I am going to have to trim a little off the end of the dip tube for the HLT as it is too close to the bottom on the HLT. I think it's so close to the bottom that it will actually restrict flow. I cannot wait to get this thing done and get some testing and brewing going on around here. I'm still doing doing 5 gallon batches using the BK burner on the stand and my old cooler setup up, but I'm ready to get this thing fired up on a regular basis. Heres some pics:

 

The current overall view as it sits in the "junk room".

 

Looks really good! Trying to figure out the wiring on mine! I'm a dummy when it comes to electrical.

Matt

 

Don't feel alone. If I can help PM me and let me know.

 

What does your enclosure look like? Is there a mounting plate inside of it? Mine had a removable mounting plate (total pita to remove however) that I drilled, mounted the hardware (transformer, spark ignition modules, and DIN rails). If you do not have a mounting plate, you can consider mounting directly to the enclosure itself or fab up a plate that will fit, with stand offs.

I used several DIN rails, one for ground, and one for black and one for white from the 120VAC. I connected the AC wires to each rail and labelled them. I used spade terminals and crimp tools for all the connections to the rails. I used color coded wiring where possible. Took quite a bit of time as I recall, but I brought the entire stand inside to do it up in comfort. Ran all the wires in weatherproof flexible conduit (but not heat proof), where necessary, shrink wraps, and watertight fittings for wiring entering the enclosure. My wires all come out the top on the enclosure through 1 of 4 holes. There are 7 switches I used: main power, 2 pumps, 2 valves, and 2 PID controllers. I used waterproof covers on the switches. I wired a waterproof light to the main power switch. I used silicone sealant on the PID display/control. Ensure adequate slack wire in the connections going to/from the PIDs/temp controllers so when you open the enclosure the wires have plenty of free play.

Do not recall if I used separate rails for the 24VAC for my valves, or just wired with a solder less terminal or wire nut.

I used some lead flashing to shield the spark igniters so as to prevent any RFI/EMI between these and the PIDs.

It shouldn't be too hard if you take your time.

TD

 

This was the first time I ever used the DIN rail, and I really like it, just much cleaner and seems like better, sturdier connections than the radio shack type block rail thing. TD, if you've got some good photos of your control panel and wiring can you post them on here or link to a build thread if you did one. In building mine I found the more photos of wiring and connections the better.

 

Got some more fittings in and installed.....getting closer. I also got the two remaining sight glasses on, but not hard plumbed because I frankly just don't fill like drilling hole for the upright support/ eye hooks today. Still have to get some fittings for a BK return/whirlpool and a return for the HLT as well as make a decision on whether I want to do an inline oxygen stone or not coming out of the chiller. I'm leaning toward no at this point as I am still a bit leery of the sanitation factor and that I already have a oxygenation wand setup from Williams Brewing that I like and it's easy to clean. We'll see.

 

I got some of the few remaining fittings in and everything is coming together toward the completion of this year long plus project. Today I got the inline oxygenation/wort out/ temp monitor done coming out of the chiller. the whole assembly removes via camlock from the chiller for ease of cleaning. On the end is a small comp fitting that I picked up from Brew Hardware. My Thermapen probe goes tightly into the end and should provide nearly immediate temp readings to adjust chilling flows going out to the fermenter. I still have to silver solder the oxygen wand/ stone into the hole I drilled into the plug, but other than that this item is checked off the list. I punched a couple holes in the keggles and installed the BK return/ whirlpool arm that Bobby at Brewhardware.com did a longer custom length for me so that the return is near the bottom of the BK. Good dude, didn't even charge me extra! (of course I've probably paid for his kid's first semester in college, lol). I did the same thing on the HLT, but with the shorter whirlpool return that Bobby sells. I will be using ice in the HLT for chilling through the Therminator so the whirlpool action should help to keep from having hot and cold spots in the ice water. I bought a Greenlee 1/2" conduit punch from Lowes and let me tell you that is the way to go for putting clean holes, in about a quarter of the time or effort, into kettles for weldless bulkheads. After using step bits, I would highly recommend the punch, it kicks butt! I also got my water filter plumbed and mounted to the stand. It is removable so I can properly stow the filter away and let it dry between brew days. I got a valve going to a cheap hose disconnect, probably replace it later, to connect to a 25' RV drinking hose going to the spigot. The exit to the filter has just a 1/2" male thread to 1/2" barb. I will most likely replace this later with a camlock, but it'll work for now.

I wanted to praise two of the vendors I used for the parts for this project that have offered great service, good prices, and great selection of items for the brewers out there. Of course Bobby @ brewhardware.com and Adventures in Homebrewing. These are the type of quality people I enjoy doing business with and if anyone reading this needs brewing hardware I can't recommend them enough. On to some more pictures!!!

 

Closer pic of the water filter setup as it is now.

 

Quick update. Silver soldered the oxygen stone into the SS plug on the inline oxygenation setup. I put in a small 3/16" barbed check valve so liquid cant get up into my oxygen regulator. I went this route because I already had the Williams Brewing O2 wand system. My soldering job leaves a lot aesthetically to be desired I guess, but I pressurized it and it's waterproof. Cool thing is I can unscrew the stone and plug, disconnect the tube and boil it to sanitize.

 

Looks Great!

 

Thanks, it has been way more work than I had originally thought, but I am happy with it so far.

 

I did the final wet test on the system today with PBW and water rinse in preparation for brewing on weds or Thurs, if my order from Austin ever comes. There is a definite learning curve involved in running this system versus a cooler setup. I forgot to close a valve from the HLT before removing a ccam lock which led to some leakage and the check valve on the oxygen stone tubing did not work so I got water up into the regulator, but it doesn't do it when connect to the O2 bottle. Needless to say I learned some things, but then again that's the point. Luckily all the temp sensors and dials were all within one degree or less according to the Thermapen so that saved any headaches there. I shot a few vids, but none got saved apparently.

 

Picked up a GFCI outlet for safety.

 

Nice build!

What is about GSD's that they manage to get in almost every picture? LOL, ours usually finds his way into almost every picture we take, usually just his tail or an ear.

 

We've got three, so there seems to be one in every room of the house, lol. They're great dogs, I don't think I'll ever get a different breed.

 

It's go time. Finally brewing in the morning!!!!!! Man, I've never been as excited to brew. I got the final steps done today in order to start it up for real in the morning. I had to build a collar on my ferm chamber in order to get two carboys in it (one on the hump), had to build a fan box for air recirculation in it, got the GFCI mounted, notched out an old lid for the Locline return and it fits perfectly in the opening of the MLT. I also found my vinyl numbering for the MLT sight glass that I thought I had lost so I got that sight glass calibrated and ready to roll. I'm not gonna sleep well tonight because of the anticipation. The first brew is gonna be the BYO clone for Bell's Two Hearted. Got the 20+ lbs of grains misted as I like doing wet milling. I like that beer, but it's not my favorite IPA. It is however my neighbor's favorite overall beer. My neighbor who also just had a very nice pool installed. I'm giving him half of this batch in return for access to the oasis, lol. This system is paying dividends already.

 

A couple more of the ferm chamber. It'll do until I can get a conical and stand up freezer. Holding temp very well.

 

Killer setup. Thanks for sharing! Might have to hire you!

 

Thank you, however if you want the stand built in less than a year I'm probably not your guy, lol

 

Very nice set up

 

Thank you sir.

 

Awesome rig man! I'm building a new rig and it's going to be pretty close to your set up. I have a few questions:

what type of fitting is that after your valve? I'm looking to take inline temp readings from the MLT since I will be recirculating with a herms coil.

Where did you get your kegs from? I've called liquor stores and distributors and haven't had any luck.

I'm not looking to build an E system like you have but I'd like a better way to get temp readings. Some have recommend a Hand help probe with the compression fitting from brewhardware.com but I'm looking for something a little more permanent solution. IE. inline probes.

Awesome write up and build!

 

Looks great. That's a lot of cleaning to do after each brew day though.

 

Thanks guys. The clean up isn't that bad. Took about thirty minutes. While the boil is going I get the mash tun cleaned out and take care of other things. It's definitely more than my old cooler setup, but I actually enjoy it.

The fittings coming out of the ball valves are close nipple to tee with a male camlock off the bottom and this, http://www.brewershardware.com/2-MPT-Thermowell-with-1-2-FPT-Inlet.html , thermowell out the front for temperature probe readings from the Love controllers. They sell alot of different thermowells so you can probably find something to fit your needs.

Sourcing kegs is always a debatable topic for folks, however because of my job the last thing I need is to get some kind of dealing in stolen property so I bought new kegs from Adventures In Homebrewing out of Michigan. They have variations on the coupler placement and will have them TIG welded for you if need be. Plus their customer service is really good. Heres a link if you want to check them out. http://www.homebrewing.org/Brew-Kettles_c_436.html

That compression fitting for the probe works really well by the way. I use it for my Thermapen on the outlet of the oxygen assembly.

 

Awesome job Troy, I'll agree that Adventures in Homebrewing (HomeBrewing.org) is a great place and great service. If your looking for a completely assembled stand tho.. I can't say enough about Ruby Street Brewing Stands.. The stands are crazy nice and their customer service is top notch. They also have a digital controlled system coming out soon if your not comfortable DIY..

Duff-Man says a lot of things.. oh yeah! -Kev

 

Copbrew133: Outstanding job. Take off my hat.
Hope some day i can borrow your ideas and build something similar here in the caribbean.
Tell us some day about what kind of beers you are making.
Cheers to you and to a job very well done.

 

Thank you for the kind words guys. Take whatever ideas you want, because very little of this system was my original design. I did what I believe a lot of brewers do which is to take previous ideas and use them or to take the concepts and adjust them to what your particular needs or wants may be. For example my stand was designed like so many; based off Mr. McAlister's Brutus 10 design, but I wanted some extra width there to space the keggles apart and to increase kettle size someday if I wanted. There are so many variables in the systems components that one can use, that one can really personalize their system for their own personal needs. That's one of the many great things about brewing is that it is very personal in nature. It's generally up to you (or the wife!!!) and what you enjoy brewing, drinking or building...it is your own!

I've brewed some varied beers so far with the system including a Christmas ale, a smoked Scottish ale Inspired by Oskar Blues Old Chub, a dry stout, an oatmeal stout, and a couple IPA's. I bought a stainless hop spider not too long ago and I'm planning a stringent test of it with a big double IPA recipe that I've been working on developing with a lot of hops in it. I've gotten to the point with the system that I pretty much have things dialed in and know what to expect. That took about 3 to 4 sessions, but I am really happy with it. I am usually on HBT at least once a day so shoot me a message if I can help with anything when you get your build going.

One piece of advice I would have seems like common sense, but I got so caught up in the construction of the new brew stand, which took me from every brew being 5 gallons to most being 10, that I really neglected the cold side of my brewery. DUH!!! When you brew more beer it has to go somewhere, lol. I've had to buy more kegs and I'm still looking at increasing fermenter space (another freezer or fridge) and cold storage. Just ordered a 15 gallon Speidel fermenter so I don't have to split 10 gallon batches. These were things I had thought about, but didn't make it as primary of a concern as I should have. Live and learn right.