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Missed OG, can someone explain this

Discussion in 'All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing' started by jwalkermed, Aug 29, 2014.

 

  1. #1
    jwalkermed

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    Brewed today, 1st all grain BIAB. Efficiency not what I hoped for. Crush probably wasn't fine enough but had LHBS mill grains twice.

    Anyway pre boil volulme was on but my gravity was 1.042 (estimated 1.045 beersmith) so I used BS2 calculator to add light DME to the wort to hit my pre boil gravity. After the boil my volumes were @ 5 gallons in the fermenter, just where it should be. I measured the OG and it was 1.055 (BS estimated 1.060).

    What I don't understand is if my pre boil and post boil volumes were on and my pre boil gravity was where it was supposed to be how could I miss the OG?

    The one caveat is I didn't take a gravity measurement after I added the DME. Maybe I should have done that to make sure I added enough.

    Could I pasteurize some more light DME bring it up 5 points or will this affect the flavor?
     
  2. #2
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    I wouldn't worry about 5 points- it's fine!

    The reason for the differences in the readings could be that the preboil sample wasn't chilled enough before reading. Any readings, even with correction tables, over 100 degrees are so notoriously inaccurate as to be unusable. If the sample is taken preboil, it must be cooled to under 100 degrees (90 is better) and then the sample can be corrected for temperature and used.

    The other possibilities are volume related. Sometimes an extra quart of water or two can skew the readings enough as to be unreliable.
     
    jwalkermed likes this.
  3. #3
    afr0byte

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    Do you know of any experiments that have tested how far off the correction can be?
     
  4. #4
    jwalkermed

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    Thanks good to know for the future. Cool the sample before the refractometer.

    Cheers
     
  5. #5
    shtoive87

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    For biab, you should mash for 90 mins. 3 vessel system usually calls for 60 mins, but then lauter and sparge adds another 30 mins or so at the temp.


    Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
     
  6. #6
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    I thought you were using a hydrometer. Generally, for a refractometer a drop cools quickly to the refractometer temp, so if your refractometer is at room temperature (not in the sun), it should be accurate.
     
  7. #7
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    Just my own (anecdotal) experiences. Taking a sample at 152-155, and correcting it via the correction tables was off by more than 10 points one time, 15 points another time, and 7 points another time with the correction tables.

    Taking the same sample and cooling it to 90 degrees, and then applying the correction was dead on every time (and still is).
     
  8. #8
    Foosier

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    Stoive87 you cannot and should not tell people that biab requires a longer mash. That is totally inaccurate. A number of folks on here have proven that conversion is actually an incredibly fast process completed in 5-10 minutes. The key to getting conversion this fast is super finely milled grist. 90 minutes is really more something you might consider with a traditional mash tun set up. The longer mash time allows for the larger particles to be more thoroughly wetted. Even then 90 min seems totally unnecessary in order to increase efficiency.
     
    EJay likes this.
  9. #9
    jwalkermed

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    I mashed for 75 minutes just because that's what BS said to do. I didn't mash out or sparge. I think my issue was the grain crush. The LHBS milled it twice but looking at the grain it could have been milled more in my opinion. Guess it's time to buy a mill. But this wasn't about efficiency. I was more perplexed with missing my gravity give the calculations and volumes. Guess brewing isn't an exact science.
     
  10. #10
    acidrain

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    It actually is a pretty exact science... but you need to know your system and all the variables.
    I'm going to guess that your addition of DME did not produce the results you were expecting, and since you didn't measure, we will never know.
    Did you take good notes on boil-off etc?
    Entering the exact equipment variables is super important in BS.
    The other variables are water profile and grain crush.
    Non-variables, but things that will throw you off are thermometer and volumes measurements. Are you sure they are accurate?
    Get a couple more brews under your belt and I'll bet you will see better results.
     
  11. #11
    shtoive87

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014

    I'm getting my info from the guy who invented biab in Australia. Basic brewing did a podcast about it here: http://traffic.libsyn.com/basicbrewing/bbr04-24-14biablegacy.mp3

    Granted he did say that you shouldn't mill the grain more than usual for other reasons.

    Also braukaiser did an experiment where the iodine test was negative, but the gravity continued to rise throughout the mash: http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2011/03/04/conversion-progress-in-a-single-infusion-mash/

    I'd love to see evidence to the contrary. I know when I've done brew in a bag with only 60 minutes and no mash out, I've been disappointed with my 60% efficiency.


    Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
     
  12. #12
    RM-MN

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    I've done brew in a bag with only 10 minutes and no mash out with 80% efficiency. The difference is nearly always the milling of the grain. Poor milling can be compemnsated for somewhat by mashing longer but there comes a point where it just doesn't help.
     
    Foosier likes this.
  13. #13
    afr0byte

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 29, 2014
    Cool, I tend to go down to 80-85 normally, since my hydrometer reads about 2-3 points high (autocorrection by temperature).
     
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