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Mashing

Discussion in 'All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing' started by dave1776, Feb 2, 2012.

 

  1. #1
    dave1776

    Member

    Posted Feb 2, 2012
    I have the home depot 10 gal round cooler that I have been using as my mash tun. The drain tube has been working ok, but last brew it clogged and was a pain. Does anyone use, and how well does the false bottom work that is made for these types of mash tuns? It seems odd to me that the drain tube comes out of the top of the false bottom.
     
  2. #2
    TyTanium

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 2, 2012
    I use a manifold. I read quite a bit about false bottoms for these, and my conclusion was that the cooler expands/contracts too much with the heat changes for me to be satisfied with the FB. I was too worried about channeling down the side, or having the FB get stuck in there. I built a copper manifold and it works like a CHAMP. Aside for never wanting to use a hacksaw again, very glad I did it.

    Drain coming out the top works b/c of siphon...downward pressure of liquid draining into BK creates a vacuum and "sucks" the liquid in the tun up.

    EDIT: Also, the manifold was much cheaper. I'm sure if the FB were cheaper I'd be on here telling you how great it works.
     
  3. #3
    dave1776

    Member

    Posted Feb 2, 2012
    can you send me a picture of what you built?
     
  4. #4
    TyTanium

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 2, 2012
    Sure:

    MT Manifold.JPG
     
  5. #5
    TyTanium

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 2, 2012
    All 1/2" copper:
    4x Elbow 90°
    5x Tee
    1x 45° Street
    1x female adapter
    1x 5' pipe
     
  6. #6
    Petho

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 2, 2012
    Are the sides of your cooler deformed or is that just an illusion from the camera?
     
  7. #7
    TyTanium

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 2, 2012
    Deformed from the drastic changes in temp. The pic definitely makes it look worse than it is though.
     
  8. #8
    ChrisCorley

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    I need a false bottom for my mas tun as well. kegcowboy has them for $42 i think for a 12 inch diameter. How many slits did you cut down each piece of copper and did you put them on the bottom? does this ever get clogged or stuck? thanks.
    -C

    Edit: Also can i just cut the slits with an angle grinder? how did you connect it to the valve? I just ordered a cooler conversion valve from bargainfittings and its got a regular 1/2 inch coupling that goes in the cooler. Was this cheaper to make than 42 dollars?
     
  9. #9
    Waterboy42

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    I have the NB false bottom in my ten gallon cooler, and it works great.
     
  10. #10
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    Me too! I've been using it for about 5 years, maybe longer, and I love it.
     
  11. #11
    dunnright00

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
  12. #12
    Waterboy42

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    Yup, that's the one. I was originally going to do the stainless tube manifold, but I wanted the option to fly sparge.
     
  13. #13
    E-Mursed

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    Do yo FB folks use clamps to secure tubing between the FB and your cooler coupling?
     
  14. #14
    Waterboy42

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    Not at all. High temp silicone tubing with 3/8" id.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. #15
    E-Mursed

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    Thats my set up - just haven't tried it yet.
     
  16. #16
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    Nope. I just stuff it on. Mine is very much like the picture. It works well, because having tubing on the outside on the ball valve creates a "siphon tube" so it sucks up the wort from the bottom, under the false bottom. I have almost no deadspace as a result.
     
  17. #17
    TyTanium

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 4, 2012
    My manifold cost ~$20. Never had any clogging issues. I'm sure you could cut w/angle grinder. A lot of folks use a Dremel. I have neither, so a good ol' hacksaw for me. I did roughly 1/4" between each slit I think, probably more than necessary. Yes, slits on the bottom.

    Connected to valve with a straight piece of copper. The 45* street elbow is just loose enough to let me connect.

    It works great. I was also very close to getting the FB others have mentioned, and I'm sure I would've been pleased with that too.
     
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