mash tun manifold **pics** (almost finished)

Hey there folks, I'm a new member to the forum but have been using it as a reference point for a couple months now. Between here, YouTube and John Palmers book I've gained a ton of brewing knowledge and I'm now a passionate homebrewer.

Any how, thought I'd throw a pic of my almost complete mash tun manifold I've been working on today.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1419129130.253025.jpg
Only thing left to do is cut some drain ports into it. Any suggestion on how many I should do? I've also seen some drilled which I can do but really was just planning on using the jig saw and slice some on. Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

Nice work

 

That looks perfect! Great work!

 

I'd advise holes drilled on top at the corners & joints. These help prevent a vacuum & hence a stuck sparge.
Nice work!

 

Along with cutting slits throughout?


Thanks guys!

 

Along with cutting slits right? Thx for the advice.


Thx guys!

 

It would not make any slots or holes on the top !
Make holes or slots equi spaced all round the bottom as many as you like.
Remember that it's the grain that forms the filter NOT THE HOLES OR SLOTS ! Just recycle the first few litres, mine has slots punched in so the openings are at least 3mm (that was developed by use) works great providing you recycle the first few litres.

 

Furthermore, any holes in the top WILL mean that you won't drain bolow that top hole , make all the holes in the bottom so that it will draw down to that level.
That's unless you want to leave say 30mm in the bottom of your ton.

 

Good advise, glad I went here before finishing things up. Thx!

 

Could you explain why it would not completely drain if there were a few holes on the top? Seems to me that gravity would still let the remaining depth drain thru the slots on the bottom. Since the drain works by gravity and not a siphon it should make no difference.

 

BTW that's a nice looking manifold, but. , it will encourage the leak path to be down the sides of the ton. I would be happier to see the manifold inset from the sides , that's if you haven't soldered up yet.

 

Siphons work by gravity with a vacuum. The slots in the bottom suck up and then it runs down the hose.

A slot or hole in the top will open the vacuum as soon as the liquid drops below the level of the highest hole. Once the vacuum breaks, no more will get sucked up from the bottom holes.

 

I agree with this. If you'll only do batch sparging, you'll be OK.

If you want to fly sparge, you need to move the pipes away from the cooler sides. you want your water to flow through the grain bed, not along the cooler walls.

 

Clever observation. But this does not require a siphon, only gravity. So if it sucks air who cares it is still going to drain to the lowest slot. The holes on the top will NOT keep the rest of the depth from draining.

 

Funny- it works well on both my tuns. Holes in the corners of both manifolds & I get excellent flow

 

If you're batch sparging, why not just use a stainless braid? I've never had a stuck sparge even with 50% wheat. I get standard grain absorption amounts but only lose a cup or so of wort to my mash tun, which is shaped the same as this one. I think it's only an 8” standard width braid.

If you're fly sparging, you're probably going to have channeling issues down the sides. I usually tilt my rectangular cooler mash tun to get it to drain more completely. With this manifold, that would trap liquid in the section above the exit port. It would be slightly better if it gradually slopes down to the exit and has holes or slots in the manifold that rests in the sunken part of the cooler drain area. I suppose if you fly sparge, it will have water left over no matter what though.

 

LOL WTF

How basic do you have to get.

 

Doesn't look like it would have but a very little bit remaining in the little recess area. Certainly not enough to be concerned with.

I wouldn't solder it together so you can take apart and get stuck bits of grain out.

Looks like a nice manifold. As a 35 yr plumber by trade I like nice neat lay outs such as yours.

 

Obygaflugick****ingdeer, if you are a Plummer and music was BS I have just heard a brass band .
The manifold will eventually drain if some knob puts a hole in the top of the manifold, but if the hole was not put in the top it would continue to be sucked down until air enters the manifold. So much more efficient !

 

I never said anything about it being more efficient. I was plainly pointing out that it would indeed drain the tun to the bottom of the lowest slots cut. Not stopping when it sucked air from the holes on top as posted earlier. It also will not slow the flow by letting air in. Simple as that.

 

No , it will only drain till the air goes in at the HIGHEST POINT, then it will dribble !
Oby****ingdeewotsiqt. Oh and i hate plumbers, nothing personal tho X

 

Wow this has become quite out of hand...I appreciate the .02 from everyone.

I don't plan on soldering it since I made it quite snug, no worries about it coming apart during operation. I'll simply cut some grooves in the bottom and see how that works.

BTW, my first 2 batches with this tun were done using a stainless braided line. It worked ok but I had no control over where it went on the bottom and was concerned with it possible coming off. So I decided to step my game up with a true manifold.

 

Oh and I'm just doing batch sparging so as long as it drains effectively I'll be happy.

 

From your understanding of hydraulics I see why plumbing would give you troubles. I can post a video if you need pictures.

 

I am sure it will drain effectively (I have never had a stuck).
However , take some measures with your paddle, if you don't solder at least some of it. That's the problem with the loose philosophy ! You don't want to be knocking it apart.
You have to stir during the mash (that's a fartinmartin rule).

 

In this particular cooler, where the drain is lower than the entire manifold assembly, you are correct in that gravity would continue the drain process. In some coolers, the drain is up a little higher than the manifold and in that case, you'd absolutely get more to drain out by limiting slots/holes to the very bottom of the manifold to maintain a siphon all the way down.

 

But what would be the advantage of having holes in the top? If it doesn't improve the efficiency, and it does/may reduce it, then is there a reason for doing it?

Like Bobby said if the manifold is angled down to the drain hole, it will keep running. I was thinking it was level.

Even so, what would the reason be for putting these holes in the top? It's an extra step that makes it run slower.

 

Go back a re read I did not say it was better or worse. Just pointing out that it will drain to lowest point. It also will not drain slower. Simple gravity. Govner1 states his works fine. I doubt that it would make a rats ass on efficiency either.