Mash Tun Filtering Question

This is what I am using for my MT. Will this work without a false bottom? There is a copper pip inside of the ss sleeve with small holes drilled in it.

 

no pic

 

I can't see why it wouldn't work.

 

Sorry not sure how to do many things on here yet such as upload a picture correctly. Wasn't sure if I would need a false bottom also. This set up is going to be my first grain brew. Does anyone have any recommendations for cleaning SS. When I got my kegs back from the welder they had stains on the inside and cant seem to get them to go away.

 

Have you tried Bar Keepers Friend?

Also, a good long soak in hot Oxyclean solution does wonders.

 

You should be fine. The result should be similar to mashing/sparing with a bazooka screen, which will get you fairly decent efficiency. I've heard from SOME, not all, folks that those are more prone to clogging if you spare too fast due to the weave. So watch out for a stuck sparge.

 

To clean the welds, get a stainless steel wire brush, attach it to a drill and clean them up. thats what I did and they worked. Don't use anything else besides stainless or else your weld will start to rust.

 

It will work well for a batch sparge.

 

With these things... why do people put them in the bottom, below the line where the wort exits? Sure it'll only drain down as far as that? Just wondering as I've got something similar in my cooler I use for a mash tun and trying to figure how to get the best out of it.

 

The dip tube acts as a syphon and your wort will drain all the way down until the tube when it breaks the suction.

 

exactly, I have a dip tube on my BK and under my false bottom in the mash tun, works great.

 

Time to look for something new to use. Used 24 pounds of grain yesterday and it got stuck almost immediately.

Does anyone recommend using a manifold? I know a lot recommend a false bottom but that consists of 60-70 dollars and waiting for it to get here.

 

I'm interested to hear the best keggle MT solution too. We've tried the nice false bottom from Midwest Supplies but that has slowed to a trickle on 3 consecutive batches. I brew in a cooler and have a CPVC manifold that works wonders! Never a stuck sparge and I can ALWAYS run the pump as fast as I want. My buddy had tried the Midwest false bottom, but now went to a bazooka screen (pretty much like what you have) and has had similar issues sticking and has to blow back through the hose several times to clear it during sparging. Not good.

 

In my keggle, I cut a small hole in the bottom, inserted a long bolt, welded it to the keg. Then i put a hex coupling on top of that bolt in side the keg. I got a stainless steel colander, cut a hole in the top of it. Put the colander inside the keggle and on top of the hex coupling. Take a eye bolt with a wing nut attached to it, thread it through the colander and into the hex coupling. Then tighten down the wing nut. This secures the colander very tight to the bottom of the keg.

Also, the colander has a hole cut into the side so a dip tube can be placed inside of it.

Obviously the colander is a dome shaped, not your normal false bottom but it works great.

 

Any one have pictures to help me out with ideas. I was thinking of taking copper tubing and cutting slits in it and point them down. Possibly slipping SS braid over it as I have a lot laying around.

Was also looking at
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stainless-Steel...511?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a5b4310f

I am from Michigan and wouldn't mind helping another Michigan company out. Would I be better off getting this and running copper tubing into the center hole and then putting a SS clamp at the top.


I need something that is going to feed my pump well though. I am having major problems with priming my pump. Recently ran into a stuck sparge and then problems moving any liquid from any vessel.



This is how it is set up at the moment. Some said to movie the pump with the out facing up. I can having problems getting the liquid to fill the tubing it just trickles down then stops randomly.

 

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