Longnecks vs stubbies: which wastes less beer?

Being relatively new to homebrewing, it still kills me that I have to leave a little bit of beer behind in each bottle because of the yeast sediment. I usually pour in good light and watch for the sediment to get most of the way up the neck, and then stop the pour and dump the rest in the sink. Is that what you all do too?

OK, that leads me to the question, which type of bottle wastes less beer, longnecks or stubbies? I know the difference, if there is any, will be slight, but does the geometry of the different types of bottles allow one or the other to pour more drinkable beer into my glass? What does intuition tell you, and maybe more importantly, has anyone measured it?

Thanks.

 

I have both, but I use mostly longnecks, they are easier to get. The stubbies I have are being recycled as I use them about 20 of them in the bin. I don't really pay attention to the yeast getting into the glass.

To me it is convenience. The longneck fit nicely into to cases, stubbies are nostalgic though.

 

put the beer in the fridge for a week+ and you can get all but a few drops out since the seidement will harden and not flow when you pour.

 

Interesting question. I've never thought of this or measured it, but I would be inclined to believe that there is slightly less wastage in longnecks, the reason being that the longer neck makes it easier to pour until the sludge gets almost to the mouth. A slighly different approach might be to bottle in 22oz bottles instead of 12oz. It seems to me that sice I switched to the larger bottle, I am dumping only slightly more beer from each bottle, but with the total volume of the bigger bottle being almost twice that of the smaller, on an ounce per ounce basis there is less wastage with the larger bottles.

Of course, I could be completely wrong.

-pjw

 

I just measured them the other day. The longnecks have more room for volume you can get 13 oz if you get to about inch to a inch and a half from top. I was wondering why i was getting 1 less beer each batch and it was because i was using longnecks.I also proved it with onestep water i filled a longneck to the rim then poured it into a stubby and it overflowed. I also measured the stubby with water and 12 oz of water and it got just above the bottom of the neck with that also.
I was also using Bell's bottles and they are bottle conditioned so maybe they are slightly more compared to a miller long nec or something because of the yeast. and my stubbys are also sierrra nevada which are bottled conditioned im pretty shure so maybe these are different volume size compared to commercial pasterized beer bottles

 

Interesting thought. I like the shape of the 740ml PET bottles Coopers gave me with my micro brew kit. They have lugs on the bottom of the bottle,like some plastic pop bottles. All the yeast trub settles into those every time. 3-5 days in the fridge firms that up a little bit more after 3-4 weeks conditioning at room temp. I've been able to pour off down to about 1/8" into those lugs on the bottom.
I just started using glass bottles on this batch,11.2oz Paulaner's,Michelob amber bock's (12oz),& some 12oz used craft brew bottles I got from the LHBS. I must say,though,I did run into a problem with 2 bottles from the craft brew category. I use a Red Baron capper,& when trying to crimp those 2 bottles,the capper slid down past those curved metal plates inside the top of the capper that grip the bottle on center. I think it's something to do with the shape of the lip.?...
Anyway,normal bottles,having only a slight curve on the bottom,will make the trub settle around the outer circumference of the bottom of the bottle. I don't think diameter will matter much with the same shape on the bottom.

 

This is the best method. When I bottled, I normally pour into a glass large enough to hold the entire bottle to avoid churning it up. Honestly, don't worry about it though. Yeast is good for you.

 

Yeast is good for you but it can change the taste of your beer, I usually just save just enough to save the yeast and swirl it and drink that sometimes seperatly from the beer.From what i know too much yeast can not be so good for you also just kinda like the beer or two a day is good for you probably not so much more obviously.
Those longnecks make up for that oz lost really though if you just dump the yeast and a little bit of beer if you want it clear and not so yeasty. Using a glass.
the longer you condition and chill say refrigerate the recommended 2 weeks before drinking,im shure its a real tight yeast and easy to pour without being so careful.I cellar mine after about 6 or so weeks but still drink some in between.

 

I do the same, and have found that most of the clumps will settle to the bottom of my glass.

 

Start kegging and you'll never have this problem again (except for the first pint).

 

The milk crates that I use fit 30 longnecks perfectly. The stubbys are wider and throws everything off so I don't use them.

 

Great! I'll start refrigerating longer. I've been keeping it in the fridge for about 4 days average before drinking, and apparently that isn't long enough for it to set up much...still seems pretty loose when I pour.

That's what I was thinking too.

I like this. I thought of this too but I don't have very many 22 oz bottles yet (maybe 4 or 5). I'll probably favor these though for this reason (use them first when I can).

Good input, thanks.

Yeah, I'm not too worried about drinking yeast. But I do want my beer to taste the best it can.

Thanks for the responses, everyone.

 

This what I do-
I have 18oz (500 ml) bottles. I have grolsch type bottles with flip caps. I pour about 85% into a glass and reseal the bottle and place back in the fridge. I repeat this with rest of my bottles and I pour the remainer from each bottle into my first bottle. When The first bottle is full, I put it in the fridge for a week to settle down, and then I can drink the bottle.

Deltac

 

(Slaps head) Dang! I coulda had more!

 

I like it! I don't have any of those bottles, but it sounds like a good solution.