List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

Kevin-

The diagram would work the same as well just remember everything running 30a needs 10g wiring(contactor, element). And also the plugs and outlets used need to be 30a rated.

 

Newbie question about which diagram to choose. I'm looking for something with 1 PID, 1 120v element, 2 pumps with timer and alarm. Of course an e stop. Any suggestions?

Thank you for the time

 

(belated) thanks!

 

Have you considered taking the content you've provided here, doing some kind of write up to go with it, and publishing it as an e-book? Once you do that, you could upload it to archive.org and it would be preserved forever. No one would have to worry about who is hosting what.

 

The diagrams are mostly (if not all) done by P-J, so in all fairness to him, any discussion on putting his diagrams into a book or posting them to a permanent archive should have his blessing. Just adding my $0.02

 

Forum police! Watch out!

 

I may be missing it here but P-J have you done any diagrams for the Brewtroller systems?

I am building a 2 element 5500w, three vessel, 3 pump, eHERMS system controlled by a OpenTroller DX1.

 

Sorry, no I have not. I don't know the first thing about them.

 

Um, yeah. Who do you think would be writing or at least co-authoring it?

 

I hope these diagrams don't disappear. They have shown me just enough to do some damage:cross: I'm in the process of building my panel and without these diagrams I'd be completely lost (who am I kidding, I don't have a clue). Hopefully i can find someone locally to rescue me from this maze of wires. P-J, thank you for your tremendous and thoughtful gift to this community.

 

Internet tough guy! Watch out!

Seriously guy - I'm not trying to police anything, just saying that it's generally considered bad form to take someone's work and publish / reproduce it without their permission - especially someone as helpful as P-J has been.

Well, based on your original post, I would have no idea that anyone other than you would write or co-author anything. If you've made contact with P-J and the other diagram producing members of the forum, or if that's your plan, then you certainly made no indication to that point. In which case, we're both saying the same thing, so good for you.

 

Actually when I read the post quoted above It sounded to me like he was asking P-J if he had considered collecting and publishing the work. Since P-J has been responding to multiple posts in this thread I read it as part of the conversation with P-J.

While I could have misunderstood his question I came nowhere close to the same conclusion you did. Almost seems like you assumed the worst of the guy.

 

Absolutely no need to apologize, I was just making sure I had not missed it if it was available.

 

I been looking over the treasure trove of PJ's diagrams here but am not seeing one to apply to my situation. I'm using a bcs-462 and I have 3 5500 watt elements in the BK, 3 more in the HLT and one in a RIMS tube for MT. There would also be two pumps in the mix. I've heard that at 125 amps I could run both BK and MT at same time ,which would be nice for back to back batches. Power is 240v single phase. Has anyone adapted one of the diagrams for this situation?

Thanks

 

thank you, P-J. i'm putting together my build right now and your diagrams have been invaluable. no single diagram captures exactly what i'm doing but everything is so clearly laid out that i can piece together what i need from different diagrams.

your efforts are very, very much appreciated. you have made the electric brewing adventure much less daunting.

 

Many thanks P-J. I dedicate my first post to you. Cheers Big Guy.

 

Does anyone else miss P-J like I do?! Talk about a wealth of information slipping through our fingers =( !

I was wondering how to take this diagram and add an alarm switch to the PID so I can hit a temperature, alarm goes off, and I can turn the alarm off with a switch. Any takers?

 

P-J is still posting. Perhaps he has already diagrammed everything under the sun.

 

Perhaps, but I didn't see one with the alarm.

 

The very first thread in this post has a bunch of pjs diagrams. In the second one, there is an alarm attached to a pid for reference

 

There are numerous P-J diagrams with alarms on them. The PIDs are fairly simple on the alarm side, as they're just a switch that opens or closes when a set parameter is met. You wire one leg of your 110v into one of the terminals (If you're using a 2352, power in to Pin 13, then pins 1 and 14 jumper to your alarm). Throw a switch into the feed to Pin 13, or throw a switch in between pins 1 /14 and your buzzer. Then you'll have a switchable alarm.

-Kevin

 

Is this how you'd do it?

 

There are many ways to achieve your goal, and that is certianly one of them and should work perfectly.

 

Excellent! Thank you for your help, it's truly appreciated.

 

For the Flash buzzer and the on off switch-

my on off switch for the buzzer does not have the numbers 22 21 12 11, it has 1 2 3 4
just not sure what to wire it to?

Thanks

 

Hey PJ, I just wanted to let you know that I'm going to finish my brewery some day soon. My wife got pregnant and brewing went on the back burner. Now our daughter is 9 months old and we are about to move into a house with a huge workshop. I will finally be able to resume my hobby. You helped me with a diagram a long time ago. Thank you!

 

Is there one out there of a 3 PID, 3 vessel, 2 pump, 30A herms?

 

Mine is 3 PID, 3 Vessel, 2 pump, 50A... wouldn't be hard to modify it to only allow one element to be on at a time for 30a. Check out my build thread, it's in there somewhere...

 

Here is the diagram. switch 1 and 2 would be pulled.
How would I reroute the wires to support a switch to have element 1, off, element 2?
Are any other changes necessary for the 30a?

 

You check out my thread, it's 30a 2 pid. It will show you how to add the switch. Pj put a diagram on the first page

www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/need-help-designing-electric

 

Get a 3 way switch. Run a hot feed to the common line side, then a line to the HLT contactor and a line to the BK contactor. You'd have either HLT, BK, or OFF but never both. The only other change - you may not need as many breakers.

 

Would 14GA Wire be ok for this build?

 

Absolutely - Yes..

 

I have a question on the above Diagram...........can I just plug this into a GFI outlet? Or does there need to be a GFI breaker in the main box?

 

Keep in mind that the element draws 17A on 120V. You might need to use a 1600W element instead. Otherwise, Yes, you can plug it directly into a GFCI outlet.

 

Ok thank you. Would that be plenty to maintain mash temp on say at the max 10 gallon batches?

 

It should be A-Ok.

 

This is amazingly helpful.

 

Would it be possible to get a diagram similar to this using a 120v 1500W element and 2 pumps?

I just found these diagrams and they make understanding building a control box much easier.

Also what are the parts that are connected the the ground, line and neutral with one wire going in and multiple wires going out?

 

Same drawing, just add another switch and outlet next to the other one. It should be easy enough for you to draw, or just do in the field without a drawing as it would be wired exactly the same as the one shown. As for swapping out to a 1500w element, there's really no change to the drawing. Maybe go with a 15a fuse in place of the 20a fuse on the top of the drawing, but otherwise it looks the same.

Absoloutely! Check out as many of them as you can and review them until you fully understand what each wire is doing and why it's there and you'll have a great understanding of how these things work.

These are power distribution blocks, terminal strips, or any variation there in. They allow you to attach multiple wires together and add or remove them as necessary, and are much more secure than just wire-nutting everything together. The type shown is just a bunch of little metal strips with two screws each - attach your line (supply) to one end and your load (whatever you want powered) to the other end and you have power. Note that each little metal tab is separate from the one next to it, so if you want one line wire and multiple load wires, you need to jumper (a short connecting wire) all the little metal tabs together so they all have power.

Good luck with the build!
-Kevin