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Lager Bottling Additional yeast needed?

Discussion in 'Bottling/Kegging' started by robbo007, Sep 9, 2013.

 

  1. #1
    robbo007

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 9, 2013
    Hi,
    I've going to do my second lager brew as the first one was not too good. I'm going to try and lager longer to get a better clearer brew.

    When bulk priming for bottling do I need to use any additional yeast with the dextrose? If so how much?

    I normally bulk prime 150g of Dextrose for about 21L of beer. This works out fine for ales. I'm worried my lager will be so long "lager'ing" that there will not be enough yeast left for the bottling process carbonisation process.

    Thanks,
     
  2. #2
    webby45wr

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 9, 2013
    There are a lot of threads similar to this on the site. Most tend to say that you don't need to add more yeast, but the bottle carbing will take longer than the 3 weeks commonly cited for ales.

    With that being said, I've only done one lager, a bock which was lagered for 2 months. I added about 1/4 packet of dry nottingham yeast to my bottling bucket. Beers came out great. After waiting two months for it to lager, I wasn't willing to chance it not carbing up.
     
  3. #3
    W0rthog

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 12, 2013
    I've done a couple lagers and each time I've added yeast to my bottling bucket. The first time was 1 teaspoon and it took quite a while to carbonate properly (maybe 1 month). Then second time I was a bit more liberal and it carbonate within 2-3 weeks. Both had been lagered for a couple months or more.

    However, my next lager I will use the dry yeast that is designed for bottling, because it's a small pack and doesn't impart flavors. Sounds like the easiest, rest assured method to me. HTH
     
  4. #4
    DSmith

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 13, 2013
    I add Lalvin EC-1118 (<$1 per 5 gram pack) to every batch per the directions below. Carbonation is always appearant within 2 weeks at 70F, but doesn't speed up the fact that beers taste better with more age... I had a high-gravity beer not carbonate at all for 6 months (finally carbonated with EC-1118 added to each bottle with eye-dropper) and started using the EC-1118 after that. This yeast does not attenuate further than the original yeast, even on higher final gravity beers.

    Re-yeasting Procedures:

    Yeasting dosing rate: 1 million cells/1 mL of finished beer.

    20.0e9 yeast cells/gram of rehydrated dry yeast.
    5.0 gal = 18,927 mL
    1.0e6 = 20.0e9*x/18,927, x = 0.95 grams of dry yeast (Scale Linearly for Different Batch Sizes)

    Boil (Microwave) 2 oz of spring water in 4 qt measuring cup, cover with plastic wrap, chill to about 80F (Water bath)
    Sprinkle dry yeast on water surface and recover with plastic wrap, let sit for 15 min
    (Note: Measure by weighing full package and add gradually and keep weighing)
    Stir yeast, pitch all of prepared yeast into bottling bucket during the transfer
     
  5. #5
    pumpkinman2012

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 13, 2013
    Ok, now I'm confused...how much yeast for a 5 gallon batch?

    Thanks!
     
  6. #6
    DSmith

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 13, 2013
    Just 1 gram of dry yeast, then rehydrated, makes for a yeast layer in an aged bottle very similar to a commercial bottle conditioned beer.
     
  7. #7
    pumpkinman2012

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 20, 2013
    Thanks! Bottling my lager today, what an amazing flavor this beer has, holy lord! This is going in my official rotation...lol
     
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