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Keezer collar glue

Discussion in 'Kegerators & Keezers' started by sa1126, Jan 3, 2013.

 

  1. #1
    sa1126

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    I just wanted to ask you all what you think is the best glue? I have read people use construction caulk like liquid nails but I have also read about people building with silicon caulk and just letting it set. What do you all recommend from experience?

    Cheers,
    Steve
     
  2. #2
    pepper1024

    Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    I used liquid nails on mine and haven't had any problems with it.
     
  3. #3
    Shooter

    Almaigan Brewing Co.  

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    Yeah, I also used Liquid Nails.
     
  4. #4
    Huaco

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    Liquid nails is GREAT for applying thin flat sheet like beadboard to a wall... Using it as a glue... not so great. Go to a good hardware store or woodworking store and get some TightBond III or Gorilla Glue. Either should be GREAT for bonding and will hole up to the moisture.
     
  5. #5
    Shooter

    Almaigan Brewing Co.  

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    Well, I suspect my freezer will die long before I ever have to worry about the holding power of the Liquid Nails on the collar. If not, I owe you a Coke! :mug:
     
  6. #6
    b-boy

    16%er  

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    Silicon. It's amazing how well it holds the collar on. I just moved it down a set of stairs without a problem.
     
  7. #7
    Huaco

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    Oh... Wait. Are we talking about the glue for the mitered joints or fixing it to the freezer itself? I think I got all bass-ackwards on my thinking...
     
  8. #8
    Revvy

    Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc  

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    I used gorilla glue on the mitered joints, clamping them. And used 100% silicon caulk to glue the collar to the keezer.
     
    fleeba409 likes this.
  9. #9
    sa1126

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 3, 2013
    Yeah I'm just talking collar --> freezer. I think I will go with the silicon as it would be the easiest to remove and start over.

    The gorilla glue was awesome when putting the collar together. I just need another coat or two of polyurethane and then it is going on the freezer. My temp controller is supposed to be out on my porch waiting for me :rockin:
     
  10. #10
    Shooter

    Almaigan Brewing Co.  

    Posted Jan 4, 2013
    Yeah, to clarify, I used wood glue on the corner joints, but they are also held with L-brackets and screws. I used the Liquid Nails to secure the collar to the freezer.
     
  11. #11
    jOitheboat

    Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2013
    Ha. Wish I would've read this a couple hours ago. I already had silicone but thought it might not quite do it so I went and bought a toothpaste tube of liquid nails. Attached collar to freezer about 4 hours ago. It's already a very strong bond. I bought the little tube because the caulking gun size liquid nails was labelled differently and said it was not recommended for plastic.
     
  12. #12
    sigmund

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2013
    Gorilla Glue for the miter joints, silicone caulk for the seal.
     
  13. #13
    Monster Mash

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 4, 2013
    Titebond is the best for wood/wood connections, it is less messy then Gorilla Glue. For wood/plastic silicone or Goop works great.
     
  14. #14
    schmoe

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Jan 7, 2013
    I thought the same thing but a year later, I was trying to get the liquid nails off of the oak. Turns out some piano wire and prying the wood slightly makes quick work of the liquid nails.
     
  15. #15
    Shooter

    Almaigan Brewing Co.  

    Posted Jan 7, 2013
    Are you gunning for a free soda too?!?!?

    Hey, if it comes off it comes off. It's a pretty common way of attaching a collar. Two years in and no problems so far. Of course, the silicon bead I ran on the inside of the collar to seal it would also have to fail at the same time. I'm certainly not going to hack it all to pieces at this point based on anecdotal evidence that it is doomed.
     
  16. #16
    schmoe

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Jan 7, 2013
    Not at all. I just figure in the future if someone stumbles across this thread after their chest freezer dies, they will know one way to get the liquid nails apart from the wood.
     
  17. #17
    seatbelt123

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 7, 2013
    I did not use glue. Instead I added a lip to the front and back of the collar that extends about 6" in the back and 3 in the front. It's a tight fit and it is not going to move anywhere. I did add a bead of caulk to all joints. It is airtight.
     
  18. #18
    Shooter

    Almaigan Brewing Co.  

    Posted Jan 7, 2013
    Ah, I misread your original post. I thought you were saying you removed the collar from a working freezer because you had an issue with the Liquid Nails.

    Personally, I'll probably just take off all the hardware and build another collar if that happens. Not sure I'm ambitious enough to rip off and recycle the old one! :mug:
     
  19. #19
    sa1126

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    I am going to put the collar on this weekend. Did you all put something heavy on top of the collar to press it down or just set it in place and let the glue do its work?
     
  20. #20
    b-boy

    16%er  

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    I put some weights on mine for a day or so.
     
  21. #21
    h22lude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    I still don't know if this thread is about glue for the collar build or glue to hold the collar to the freezer lol

    I used Elmer's wood glue to build the collar. I did also drill small holes and use nails for extra strength. I drilled holes so I wouldn't cause stress on the wood.

    I don't use anything to hold the collar to the freezer. I put down a strip of window or door weatherstrip and put the collar on top of that. It is air tight and it doesn't move an inch. Unless you are throwing open the lid or shaking it like crazy you shouldn't need to glue it to the freezer.
     
  22. #22
    sa1126

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    So you glued the collar to the weatherstrip?
     
  23. #23
    SinisterHOPminister

    Member

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    I used Loctite clear caulk at the advice of another keezer builder

    It worked great and dried clear so no signs of anything... And used it to seal seams on inside as well...
    Good stuff! Much better looking than messy gorilla glue!
     
  24. #24
    h22lude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    No I just put it on top.
     
  25. #25
    jcaudill

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    100% Silicone. It's more than sufficient to hold the collar on and it helps seal as well. And it can be removed later without damage to the freezer if you want to revert it back.
     
  26. #26
    Revvy

    Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc  

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    I put 4 kegs on top of it, one on each corner.
     
  27. #27
    sa1126

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 11, 2013
    I think I am going to do the same. My collar is not perfectly flat so it might have a few low spots. Weatherstripping should fix that.
     
  28. #28
    h22lude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 12, 2013
    I had help making my collar. It fits snug and is pretty much perfect all the way around. My works well because the lip all the way around dips in so I made the collar do the same thing so it can't slide which is why I didn't need to glue it. The weatherstrip worked perfectly.
     
  29. #29
    orion7144

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 12, 2013
    Did you guys take the rubber seal off the lid before sealing to the collar? Or just put the silicone/glue on the collar and set the lid on as is. I need to attach it so the collar comes up with the lid since I realized lifting the kegs over the collar is getting old like me.
     
  30. #30
    SinisterHOPminister

    Member

    Posted Jan 13, 2013
    I attached collar to base rather than to lid

    But if I were attaching to lid I would prob remove rubber seal and try to put it on bottom of collar for a good seal

    This represents one of reasons I chose not to do it that way
    Less modifications required...

    But I'm not concerned about the extra six inches of lifting the keg
     
  31. #31
    iijakii

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 14, 2013
    When I was building mine my Dad was helping me out since he has all the power tools. He was adamant that wood-glue was what you wanted to use, and that it was incredibly strong and would bond to the freezer fine. Lets just say we wasted an entire weekend.

    So after I cleaned that off I went back to my original idea of Liquid Nails and it's bullet-proof.

    I attached mine to the lid. I bought some weather-strip at Home Depot to put on the bottom of the wood-collar for a seal.
     
  32. #32
    sa1126

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 19, 2013
    I went with silicon sealant. Guess what? It works great. So great I can pick up the empty freezer by the collar and have it hang. Why did I try this? My damn collar was about 1/6" too small- must've shifted while gluing it together and the lid didn't close all the way.

    I started on a new collar this evening using some much higher quality wood this time. I went with 2x6 instead of 2x4 as most of that wood is trash from home depot.

    Note to collar builders- drill your tap shank holes before applying stain and polyurethane; it is a lot easier and will save you touch up time.

    Time for a beer :)
     
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