Keezer collar build - is insulation necessary?

I'm in the process of putting together my keezer collar using 2x12 pine. From you guys who have done something similar - was it necessary to insulate the inside of the wood, or can it be left bare without any issues?

My keezer is inside the house, so there aren't any extreme temperature factors. I have already sealed the wood, so I'm not worried about protecting the wood, but I am concerned if I am going to get condensation on the outside.

 

I had a 2x4 pine collar on mine last year. It was in my father's shop where the temperatures where a little harsh during summer. I never noticed any kind of condensation on the wood, even on the hottest days (the days where it would condensate instantly on the faucets). However, it could of been because the wood was just absorbing the little bit of it as it formed.

Regardless, I have upgraded to a 2x10 pine collar recently on that same keezer and plan to insulate within the next couple weeks for no other reason then I have seen others do it, and it definitely will not hurt.

 

Yea I'd have to agree that it won't hurt... I just don't want to have to do it if I don't have to.

 

I used 2x10's so I could fit a keg on the hump. I think a good seal on the top and bottom are more important than extra insulation. Insulation is always something you can add later when your DIY list gets shorter.

 

It would pay for itself in no time, I would insulate.

 

Any quantifiable info for this?

 

Here is a website with common building materials corresponding R-values. http://www.allwallsystem.com/design/RValueTable.html

Notice all insulation material is greater than the 2" thick soft wood (pine) at 1" in thickness. I don't know how to quantify how long it would take to pay for itself, but with out a doubt, over time it would.

 

No good reason not too, insulation is cheap for the collar & it looks good!!!

 

Insulation is not a bad idea. If you are just doing the collar and go, you will probably not notice much loss as you will get temperature stratification in the chest freezer. If you decide to put a fan inside the keezer to promote consistent cooling you will have much more loss. Foam insulation is not all that expensive so to me it really does not hurt to insulate. My keezer is insulated but has no fan yet and it turns on infrequently and never sits through the compressor delay unless I put a room temp keg in it.

 

I haven't insulated mine, and even with a computer case fan running 24/7, there's been no noticeable difference in our electric bill over the past two or three months.

Of course, with summer coming up, that might be different... but I highly doubt it.

 

I insulated mine most of the way around, with a couple spots that were bare around the electronics/taps. I can feel a (slightly) noticeable difference in temperature by touching the outside of the collar on insulated vs non-insulated spots, so I can say it certainly makes a difference. How much I'm not sure. I'd do it -- I bought the sheet of styrofoam at Home Depot for something like $5.

Without the fan the beer lines are too warm and I get foam for sure, with it my problems go away.

I used 2x10's to make my collar.

 

What's shown on your display screens? Beer names or what's remaining?

 

Both the name, and what's remaining (Rotating through Ounces, Pints, and a percentage graph)

And when you pour something it tells you how much you poured.

Here's a sample pic when I was building it (all the data was fake test data)

 

Tell us more about that. Maybe in a new thread!

 

Sure, here's the thread where I posted progress as I built it: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/arduino-based-keezer-401366

Here's the complete write-up I wrote after the fact: http://www.andrewparisio.com/2013/04/arduino-based-kegerator-keezer-build.html

 

Here's some data for you. I checked my (uninsulated) collar temps with an IR pyrometer, and it runs 0.5 to 2F cooler than the top surface of the lid. This tells me that I'm not getting much more heat loss in the collar than from the factory lid. My collar is mahogany, 3.5" high by 0.75" thick. Perhaps I'll eventually glue in some insulation, but it doesn't really seem necessary.

 

No insulation on my keezer. I also have mine inside with computer fan. I think that if you had your keezer in a location where the temperatures fluctuate a lot, insulate. If not, you'll be fine. I have zero condensation. My kegs don't even come up to the level of the collar and the temperature probe is set at about 2 feet above the bottom of the keezer.

 

Interesting. I have mine in the house in Seattle and have quite a bit of condensation even with a dehumidifier inside the freezer. A couple times I've had to use a rag to dry up the moisture on the floor of the freezer.

For me the kegs don't come up to the collar either, but the taps do and without the fan they were so warm that the beer came out warm / foamy. The insulation just makes the freezer have a little less work to do.

 

@ speedyellow:
Mahogany is much denser than a 2x4, so yes, you'd be getting a better R value from your collar than folks using a 2x4, 2x6, etc.

 

I haven't put any insulation on my 1x6 cedar collar. No issues yet. It's in the basement at a fairly constant 70*F. I've only had it for 5 months, so we'll see how it does in the summer.

 

But the real question is this. What are the settings on your temp control module? How long between compressor starts?

 

True enough. The temp is set to 38*F. I haven't really checked cycles, as I don't spend a lot of time near it. I'd have to say no more than once per hour perhaps. It is wrapped in 1/4" pine.

 

That sure is purdy. I haven't faced mine yet.

 

Thanks. It's the first piece for what will be our retirement log home - in 4 years!