Just put together MonsterMill MM2 - having some issues. Anyone?

I just put the mill together this morning, standard MM2 with 1.5" rollers and 3/8" shaft. Assembly went perfectly fine and I set the gap to the same gap width I've been using for 3 years on my Barley Crusher 0.030". Made sure both rollers turned completely smoothly so that the roller alignment was correct. Connected the Black & Decker drill I've used with my BC for the past 3 years, filled the hopper halfway with some spare grains, pull the trigger and nothing, locked up. The torque had me really holding onto the whole thing too so it didn't flip over. Tried a few things - nothing. Then the drill clutch slipped and span around the axle. Wonderful, now there's some minor stripping on the shaft, though still perfectly usable as I stopped the drill quickly. Emptied out the hopper until there was only about an inch high of grain, spun the roller in reverse fine, then tried again and locked up. Dump all the grain, started the drill and had the wife very slowly pour grain in while the drill was already running. This worked and I crushed all the spare grain. Then I looked into the hopper and see the gap had widened noticeably. Tested with my feeler gauge and sure enough plenty of space around it. So it appears the thumbscrews, which I'd tightened as much as possible by hand, slipped and allowed the roller gap to widen. This common?

So, my questions are as follows:

1. Do I absolutely need a high torque low speed drill for this mill?
2. I'm worried that a higher torque would mean I wouldn't be able to keep the mill anchored on top of the bucket. Even when trying my black & decker it really reared up at one point. Possibly though that's simply because the mill was locked up with grain?
3. Does anyone else have trouble with the thumbscrews slipping and is there a fix or is it ok to use pliers to tighten them further or do they stand a chance of snapping?

Lastly, some general observations.

1. I truly wish these companies would brush off all the tiny metal flakes from machining. My rollers had a crap load of metal debris. I brushed it off outside with a faucet cleaning brush and also ran grain through. Just would be nice if they were already clean.
2. I also wish there was a better weight distribution for these mills for use on a bucket. The BC was always at risk for tipping but the Monster Mill is at even higher risk of tipping. It's a larger/heavier mill and with a drill hanging off all the weight is on one side. I thought about mounting it so the drill was on the other side but when I tested the drill had to reach in further so it looked like the trigger would be close to the wood and uncomfortable to use.

Thanks in advance for any advice!


Rev.

 

You need a high torque drill, I mill my grains on my own with a MM2, no problems. My gaps are the same as then I first set them, don't know what that's about. I have mine on a supplied MDF board, it's adequately sturdy.

 

I was never a fan of a mill base where the drill could rotate. The reason why that particular shape is chosen by MM is that it's the max size that will fit into a large flat rate USPS box and it's also large enough to cover a bucket. If you cut your own base, you can extend the portion where the drill sits so that the handle will lodge against the base and not turn even in a jam.

 

I agree with Cyclman, sounds like a higher torque drill might be needed.

I use a Ryobi 18v cordless 2-speed drill on the slower, high-torque speed and my MM2 crunches right thru @ .030". As far as stability, I've not had any issues using the mill with a standard 5-gal homer bucket. I will admit that it could be knocked over if you bumped it, but that's never happened. I usually fill the hopper first, then attach the drill, as the weight of the drill will make the whole rig less stable, but it will be more stable once the grain is added.

To mill, I crouch down (knees bent) and let the drill's lower body (where the battery is) rest on the inside of my right leg (the drill's body wants to rotate CCW from the torque and my leg keeps it from doing so) while resting my left hand on the top of the hopper. Works like a charm and takes maybe 2 minutes to chew thru 10 lbs of grain. The 3 flats on the shaft always ensure that the keyless chuck will not rotate on the shaft.

As far as the thumbscrews, I use a Crescent wrench to tighten them securely after any adjustments. Mine is set to .030" and that's where I leave it. It's been months since the last time I checked it or made any re-adjustments. It stays put if the screws are good and tight. If you're planning on making frequent changes to the gap, I'd recommend you swap out the thumbscrews for 1/4-20 socket head cap screws.

 

Thanks everyone! Totally agree and will buy a high torque low speed drill. Question is which one. I went looking and really want one of the ones with the speed dial rather than just variable speed via the trigger. Can anyone suggest one?

@BobbyM - was thinking of the same thing, to build a bigger base where the drill can rest.

Rev.

 

I initially had a couple of problems with my MM2 caused by a very slight misalignment of the mill to the board that I had mounted it to. To keep the gap the same on both sides, each side of the adjustable roller was in a slightly different "clock position" on each eccentric. This ended up causing binding problems, and I was constantly adjusting the gap because the adjustment screws seemed to be loosening.


After I mounted the mill to a new board and ensured that the mill was perfectly square....all of my issues were resolved.

 

The thumb screws are a little problematic. My MM 2-2 would occassionally shift, even when the screws were torqued with a wrench. I converted to the new style adjustment knobs and haven't had another problem.

I can't imagine a 3/8 inch drill spinning my mill. I use the low speed 1/2 inch drill from Harbor Freight and even that torque monster can get a little bogged down occassionally.

 

Not misalignment problem. As mentioned both rollers move smoothly by hand. The problem is my drill is too weak.

Rev.

 

I use this with good results:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html

 

It is definitely your drill. I had the same issue but my drill I was able to set certain things so that it would work. The larger base is a must and I will do that soon once I finish up my brew space.

 

Mines coming Tuesday, what is the thread pitch on the thumb screws? It sounds like some nuts to tighten against the mill body may help resolve loose screw issues.

 

Hey can I ask, when did you purchase that drill? Some of the reviews claim it's discontinued and Harbor Freight has been sending what they call, "An equal model" that many say sucks and that also doesn't have the dial in the knob for speed setting. I called today and the sales rep said it's in stock, but that doesn't mean they won't send me this alternate version. And man, was that sales rep super pushy trying to get me to order right then and there.


Rev.

 

I got it about 9 months ago. The same issue was going around when I got mine. But I was able to go to a store and verify the variable speed control.

 

Cool. I guess I can go ahead and order it and if they send the wrong one I'll have them pay for return shipping and a refund. Would be very easy to dispute the order with my card simply based on pics off the website if they should try to give me a hard time returning it. Thanks again!


Rev.

 

I heard from another thread that they are 1/4-20, and 3/4" long. Getting myself some new ones too, I managed to snap off one of the heads so I get to play with locking pliers to weasel the thing out, haha.

 

Fourth post in this thread mentions is clearly.

 

Got to use the mill today for my Coconut Porter and it worked very smoothly with the new Harbor Freight drill. Complete ease. I have the gap set to the same I used on my Barley Crusher, credit card thickness using the same sample card. Efficiency went from my usual 81% with the BC to 86% with the MM2 (standard 1.5" rollers). It created more flour than usual but vorlaufing went great and the grain bed still seemed to filter perfectly, might consider setting the gap a little wider but time will tell as I've really never had a problem with flour in the past anyhow. I also flipped the mill yesterday so that the drive shaft is on the inside over the wood, meaning not protruding right over the edge. This helps to balance the mill on a bucket much better as the weight of the drill hanging off the edge the original way was too weighty on one side. Last thing to say is that since adjusting the rollers and thumbscrews according to Fred's info the rollers are now holding their positions and not slipping.

Very happy


Rev.

 

I hate to drag up an oldish thread but it looks the Harbor Freight drill with the dial is now long gone. Tried a bunch of stores, the floor model shows the dial but in the boxes are the new style ones. What's plan B for a drill any suggestions? I'd love to just motorize my mill but I can throw another $400 at it.