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just freaking pissed.stupid pump

Discussion in 'All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing' started by itsratso, Mar 27, 2014.

 

  1. #41
    acidrain

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    Outlet side. If you only bleed to the inlet side, the air in the pump is not bled.
     
  2. #42
    brewmathew

    Active Member

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    Inlet side has worked best. You can only bleed the outlet side if the pump is on and you will lose more fluid.


    Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
     
  3. #43
    insanim8er

    Banned

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    Huh? Why would the pump have to be on? I'd put it on the outlet, so your pump head is full.

    I see no reason to have the pump on since I could gravity transfer through a pump with out having it on.
     
  4. #44
    JonM

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    Having a bleeder valve on the inlet side does not compute.
     
  5. #45
    GotPushrods

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    If your thermometer reads over 213, at sea level, while brewing beer, you have a thermometer problem.

    Most worts are 10-15% sugar by weight. A huge RIS might be 20%. The boiling point will not get past 215*F until about 40% sugar by weight.

    It is NOT linear. Once you boil off 80-90% of the water the temperature starts to shoot up VERY quickly, but not until then.

    The sugar concentrations of typical wort will not materially affect the boiling point. Your elevation will actually make a bigger difference.


    Now as for the OPs problems.... I can recirculate boiling wort with my Chugger no problem. It makes some different noises and is pumping hundreds of tiny bubbles, but it keeps it moving just fine.

    I always open all valves and flood the head completely before turning the pump on -- never had a problem.
     
  6. #46
    eric19312

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
  7. #47
    insanim8er

    Banned

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    Lol a photo means nothing. It was probably assembled by the photographer. I remember the $900 sabco chill wizard had some weird misconfiguration in the professional photo of it...

    Regardless, Do what works for you.

    Edit: I did read their FAQ:

    Priming pumps made easy
    Some people wonder why we put the “priming tee” on the inlet rather than the outlet. The priming ball valve is there to allow air pockets out, and if it is positioned after the pump head, the air bubbles would get caught in the pump head and continue to cavitate.

    So that set-up is how they ship it, but I still disagree because my set up has enough pressure to almost push the liquid into the second kettle. The issue is I get back pressure build up on the out side. With the valve on the out side, it floods the head for me. If I had it on the other side, it would shoot out wort and still not flood my head because of the pressure build up by the 10+ gal of liquid.

    So again do what works for you.
     
  8. #48
    JonM

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    Plus, I have my pump set up with the inlet pointing down and the outlet pointing up. In that configuration, I can't imagine how air would get out below the pump head.
     
  9. #49
    HappiBrew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    What kind of pump do you use? I'm not familiar with those and a google search didn't turn up much? Got a link to where you got them? By the way, I was just in North Tonawanda with my wife for a Roller Derby bout. It's a pretty cool little town.
     
  10. #50
    insanim8er

    Banned

    Posted Mar 28, 2014
    [​IMG]

    They sell on amazon for cheap. They're popular over seas.

    http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6619
     
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