IRIMS is here!

I just did a wiring test with 7 of the 300 watt heaters on a 12" extension tube. I capped one end and filled it with water, left the other end open of course.

So far so good. It heated the tube full of water to almost boiling within a few seconds and I pulled the plug.

Next step is to rig up a little stand that will protect the band heaters and wiring from any spills and run a test with 8 gallons of circulating water.

If that works well, I'll need to find a box that I can seal the band heaters, tube, and wiring in while exposing the tri-clover fittings on the outside. That should help with insulation and protect the electrical parts from any spills.

 

I just completed a wet test. The setup was:

8 gallons of water circulating through my boil kettle (whirlpool). My March 815 pump was set to half throttle and I use 1/2" silicone lines. The IRIMS devices was a 12" tri-clover extension tube with 7 x 300 watt 120v band heaters.

This was not a simulation of my mash. The water volume was a couple of gallons more than my usual mash and I was using my boil kettle. Also, I didn't cover the kettle (my mash tun is covered during mashes). The IRIMS heater was not insulated.

I'm a bit disappointing in the results, but I don't think all hope is lost yet.

I ran two runs with the IRIMS and found that it could only maintain temperatures at 100%. My test runs were for 10 minutes each.

My existing HERMS device (An insulated 1 gallon cooler with a 2kW element and 1/2" copper coil submersed in the water) was able to raise the temperature of the entire mass of water by 4.3 F in 10 minutes.

I repeated each test twice.

I'm going to build an insulated box for the IRIMS device and see how much difference that makes. I would say my HERMS setup has a significant advantage since not much heat is lost to the atmosphere compared to the way I tested the IRIMS setup.

If I can get the same performance as my existing setup, I'll switch over just for the simpler and more compact setup.

But its looking like you will need more power than is available with 120v if you want to do any serious step mashes.

 

Disappointing, but not unexpected, honestly. It would be nice if insulation made the difference, but i suspect it still won't be nearly as efficient as the usual RIMS tube.

 

I think insulation is the key here. Mashes don't need much heat input even for stepping, but your system can't bleed off heat faster than it is generated by the tube. Cover your kettle and try again, and that alone would make a big difference, I bet. Insulate the rest and you should be good to go.

-BD

 

Nice idea!

Along with insulating, you might want to consider creating some turbulence within the TC tube. Maybe get some stainless 16 gauge (or larger) wire and make a coil (like a big spring) with a diameter that is roughly the ID of the TC tube and have the coil run the length of the tube. You want the flow to be turbulent and not laminar within the tube.

 

I agree. Hot enough and you will get local boiling.

-BD

 

Seems like a 1/2" inlet and output attached to a 1" or larger TC tube would cause plenty of turbulence, no?

 

Did you consider wrapping a TC spool with an induction coil?

 

Yea I never said this was efficient. If you want efficiency, go buy a case of beer.

For me I wanted a method that:

Works
Doesn't scorch wort
More efficient than Herms
Can step mash faster than Herms
Don't have to clean between brews
Easily expandable

I think IRIMS is a good compromise between rims and Herms.

My next improvement will be:

Header wrap to get 2-3 layers.
Wrap with rock wool insulation
Put a water resistant cap on the top of the PVC to make it splash proof.

 

The spool is non ferrous so no on that, I thought of it though. Would need a sleeve clamped over the outside.

 

Good points but my long stainless cartridge heater rims tube hits all that criteria as well... and it was efficiently cheap to build and requires only 1800w to operate.

Pulling it apart after brewing revealed absolutely ZERO buildup of any kind on the element due to its long length (36") and ULWD (gradual gentle heating as the wort travels the 36" length with the 5/8" element in the 1" tube providing good heating contact) ... and I get a 2 degree rise per minute out of it..

Please dont think I'm trying to rain on your parade, I'm sure your setup works fantastic as well.
I just feel its worth mentioning there are more than one way to accomplish those goal and avoid the "limitations" of the traditional rims setups people warn against...
I think my longer narrow setup is also a good compromise between a traditional rims and herms with the benefits of each. I know im not the first to attempt is and am surprised its not more common actually.

 

Yep, great point. Just another option to fit your needs. Like you said it's about the right solution to fit your needs. Each has their plus and minuses.

 

Are your spools not 304 grade?

 

316

 

So I added a fernco 4" cap to the top. Cut a 1" hole and made 2 slits so I could get it over the triclamp flange. Will glue it back together.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1436448581.696031.jpg

Wrapped the heaters in header tape, the ring at the top is extra header tape I'm using as a centering ring and plug.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1436448622.853166.jpg

Installed some rock wool insulation between the heaters and the 4" PVC pipe.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1436448762.039489.jpg

 

Any updates?

 

I haven't had a chance to work on it any more (life keeps interrupting me).

I hope to be able to insulate the foo out of it and test again in a few days.

 

Mash Recirculating Killer Newfangled Infusion Straps Heater - MRKNISH

 

Insulation is the key here. My 4500w setup is working great! I'm getting 1-1.3 deg per minute at flow of 1-1.5 gpm.

 

How much water in the tun?

 

8-11 g avg

 

I haven't had time to follow up on this. I think the 120v version I put together shows promise for 5 gallon batches with some insulation.

It maintained temps with no insulation and the lid off the tun (20gal Stout tank). So, It might do much better with the lid on and a lot of insulation around the tube.

I'm not going to have time in the near future to play with it any. If someone is interested in picking up the parts from me for half price, let me know. If not, I'll eventually get around to insulating it and testing again.

 

Did a similar build a few years back... still works really well. Putting a spring in the tube breaks up the flow and improves heat transfer. I clean in place, but the springs are also easy to remove. Don't forget the thermal fuses...

 

Bump. I'm in the market for a RIMS, and I keep thinking about getting the element outside the pipe.

Any further performance data? Problems?

 

Highly recommend. I used extreme temp heat tape.

 

Link?

 

Here is the build....
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=293810

 

Did anybody use that irims ?

I made for me first irims with 35mm ss pipe and 8pcs of 250w band heater that gives about 2000w.

I want ask how about parameters today i test heating speed and with uninsulated plastic tank. I use about 14-15 Liters of water, set flow speed at 2 liters/min.

With this setting i start heat water and resaults
time -before irims - after irims
00min - 13,0* - 20,0*
10min - 25,5* - 35,5*
15min - 33,5* - 44,0*
20min - 39,0* - 52,0*
25min - 44,0* - 53,0*
30min - 53,5* - 61,5*
35min - 59,0* - 67,5*
40min - 65,5* - 75,0*
45min - 71,0* - 80,5*
50min - 75,0* - 85,0*

Its about 1,5 deg/min at flow 2 L/min.

In addition, I must add that still a lot of heat escapes outside as I checked the pyrometer, the temperature was between 150 - 200 degrees.