HOW TO: Wire an Auber SYL-2362A2 PID for a Fridge

Is that 10 amp contact rating a inductive or resistive one?
Compressors have a high inrush starting surge way above
the 4.3 amp running current.

 

This thing will handle both. There is a setting for using inductive loads. Here is an excerpt from the manual:

"4.5.2 On/off control mode
It is necessary for inductive loads such as motors, compressors, or solenoid
valves that do not like to take pulsed power. It works like a mechanical
thermostat. When the temperature passes the set point, the heater (or
cooler) will be turned off. When the temperature drops back to below the
hysteresis band (Hy) the heater will turn on again.
To use the On/off mode, set At=0. Then, set the Hy to the desired range
based on control precision requirements. Smaller Hy values result in tighter
temperature control, but also cause the on/off action to occur more
frequently"



It may not be enough. Looks like it might be just over 10 AMPs on start. It also depends on the start kit installed on your fridge unit.

Is this a "Frost Free" fridge? If so, the defrost current is probably greater than the compressor running current. The AMP rating on the plate may indicate the draw of the defrost cycle as it is greater than the compressor run current. You might be able to get by with that PID. Disconnect the defrost [email protected] Any way you can get get a good measurement on the current draw?

 

I am using one of these devices and I am having the damnedest time trying to dial in the temperature. Is there a limitation of the temperature range of operation. I am getting a 4 degree rise when the door is closed on the freezer (where the box sits, 20F) and the fridge is 50F.

Just FYI I am an electrical engineer so I have at least an idea of what I am doing.

 

What kind of temperature probe are you using? Type K thermocouple, RTD pt100, etc etc?

Is the controller mounted in the freezer door?

You shouldnt be having a problem reading in the 20s. Its confusing as to why you would get a temp rise if you shut the freezer door.

 

I was hoping to hook up a light bulb to provide he to keep a constant temperature in the winter time. How would I took a mechanic's light and stripped the ends of it off for this purpose. But I can't get it working. Any idea's on how to hook this up?

 

Does this completely cut the electricity to the freezer? Do you think it will cause issue to the compressor after come time of off and on?

 

Nope, thats how the original thermostat in the freezer works. Only difference is you'll be doing it at a different temperature.

 

Can you share the program settings for this 2362 model?

 

I'm not sure if anyone has seen this, and I know this post is relatively old, however, here is the info and link the auber instruments manual for the Syl-2352 which covers how to wire the controller for both controlling your refrig/freezer AND heating with the same control:

-----------------------------------------------------
This is an example for beer fermentation. The refrigerator is driven by the
internal relay of the controller directly. Please note that the internal relay
output (terminals 7 and 8) is not powered by itself. A power supply must
be used to drive the external relay. The refrigerator must consume less
current than the internal relay’s maximum rating (7A at 240V AC and 10A at
120V AC). The bulb (less than 100-300 W) is for heating. The example is
setup to have the heater to turn on when temperature drops to below 60 °F
and turns off at 64 °F. The refrigerator will turn on when temperature is above
69 °F and turn off at 65 °F.
Set up for the controller
1) Hy = 2.0. Set both hysteresis band for heater and cooler to 2 degree.
2) COOL=9. Set the controller to cooling mode, no alarm suppression,
Fahrenheit temperature unit display.
3) AT=0. Set the controller main output to on/off control mode for refrigerator
compressor control
4) ALM2=62. Set the low limit alarm to 62 °F. Heater will be on at 60 °F
(ALM2-Hy) and off at 64 °F (ALM2+Hy)
5) SV=67. Refrigerator will be on at 69 °F (SV+Hy) and off at 65 °F (SV-Hy).
-------------------------------------------------------------------
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual%20version%203.4.pdf

may provide some added functionality,

cheers!

 

looks like I posted the wrong part number, it should SYL-2342

 

In addition to my previous post, it looks like one may use an SSR control with The SYL-2352 to achieve the same result. I have used the Auber controllers with relay outputs in the past and every one of them has blown the internal relay within 6-8 months of use (no I did not exceed the amp ratings for the relay). Having upgraded to the SYL-2352 controller and using solid state relays has been a solution that proves to stand the test of time, no failures of the controller yet that is. The settings for programming the SYL-2352 up as a refrigeration control are as follows:

At = 0 (on/off control mode)
hy = 3 (+ or - 3 degree offset of setpoint, prevent short cycle)
t = between 60 - 90 (1 to 1.5 minute minimum on/off cycle, further prevent short cycling the compressor!)
cool = 11 (sets controller to cooling mode)

you may use the other settings in the manual to set your preference of decimal point position and F or C temperature readout.

I leave the high and low alarms at 100 & 0 F respectively, because in this case you will not be using the alarm outputs, I found that the 3A 120V rating of the alarm output is too low for my chest freezer compressor.

 

Great Thread but I have one question in general. Maybe i missed this elsewhere but where is the temp probe? Does it just read ambient inside the freezer or is it inside the fermentation vessel?

Thanks in advance.

 

This is the way I went for a "keezer."

It works very well with a SSR. I added a metal oxide varistor to protect surges on the compressor power side of my SSR, and superpale's settings are correct.

cool = 11 gives you a setting with Fahrenheit, cooling mode, and no alarm suppression

t = cycle time... this is the time the controller takes to compute "what to do." So if you have it set to a minute, it will take a minute to initially turn on the power to the compressor of your freezer. Also when the temp his the hysteresis setting (low or high) it will take a full minute of that temp to read from your thermocouple before the controller decides what to do next.

I used a type K thermocouple from amazon, and the polarity was jacked up on it, so after the freezer turned on for 10 minutes and the temp appeared to go up by 40 degrees F, I flipped the terminals and it works properly now.

I drilled a hole through the compressor hump and into the freezer, missed coolant lines, and then sealed the hole after pushing it through. The thermocouple sits in a bottle of water for consistency with my kegs. I also dremeled the old themrostat off and found that the Auber PID fits well into it's old place.

I used a home depot GE 5.0 cubic ft chest freezer for this project. And a amazon SSR.

Hopefully someone reads this guide and finds this info useful. I figured I'd elaborate on superpale's input as I found it exponentially useful as this thread comes up often on google for "PID keezer" or "PID keg freezer." If you're reading this, and you think a ebay PID is a good idea for a keezer application- think again. your PID needs a on/off mode and a time function so you don't short cycle your freezer's compressor (quick power switching associated with PID power control will cause it to operate with evaporated lubricant, and cause it to seize). An this is why I went with a Auber PID- they have great wiring diagrams as well as manuals for their devices.

I have a ebay "Mypin" T4 PID that does NOT have a on/off mode, and the "Chinglish" user guide is shaky, at best. It is now waiting to be used for another homebrew project if I ever figure out it's settings....